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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #603 (Edited)
Man... seems like nobody cares about this truck :(

Small update...
Axle is painted and fully assembled (other than the pass caliper which the bleeder screw siezed up in and I am unable to get it out, so I'll be needing a new caliper), and I put all new seals in it as well (which was a pain trying to find the right ones because 2 different parts stores AND the dealership gave me the wrong parts. But I got it eventually). It is now ready to go in the truck, but I plan to do the cutting/welding on the frame with the old axle in yet.



Other than that not too much more has been done because some parts running took a lot of my time the past 2 days. Tonight I hope to get the frame notched and welded and install the axle then mount the air tank/water trap/rear valves/bags/etc. and once all that stuff is done the rear should be completely done other than putting the bed back on, etc. But I may drive it with the bed off for the first few days

Then once that's done the tranny crossmember needs to get installed (the inside of the pass frame rail is bend from when the old crossmember snagged on a railroad spike, so that will need to get heated up and hammered back into place), the front valves will get installed on the tranny crossmember, and then it's onto the front to finish cutting/grinding the spring pockets and clean them up, reassemble the front suspension, notch for tie rods, install shocks, and lastly, build a bracket for the Sanden and mount/plumb/wire it.

Once the suspension is finalized then it's put the front end back together and DRIVE IT lol
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #607
thanks for the good comments guys...

It's nice to hear some feedback :)


And V8Blaze... I'm pretty excited myself that I found an 8.5 :) Even though it didn't have the ebrake cables :( But that's ok because between buying it and the new seals/studs/pads/caliper I have spent right around $400 for a fully rebuilt Blazer 8.5" (minus bearings) :D
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #609
yea i spent close to that for a 7.5 out of a 01 blazer after redoing the brakes/rotors when i blew my stock rear. Sucked i couldnt find a 8.5, but discs are cool and i dont NEED an 8.5 lol. Glad to see one of your projects being updated. Im awaiting seeing the rebirth of the first gen tho
Yeah I'm glad to see something being updated too. It's been too long that I haven't had any time to work on my projects and I was starting to miss it. Plus it's nice to see progress on something, although I'd rather it not be under the stressful/rush to get it done kind of circumstances


And I can't wait to get back to working on my '91. I have big plans for it :)
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #613
Lookin good mang!

I know what you mean on the rear end seals. The parts store had 3 different part #'s listed for my truck.
Thanks Jordan :)

And yes... the parts stores can suck it lol
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #614
Well, didn't get much done last night other than I got the new axle bolted into the truck, but by doing that I realized that I can't notch the frame at all or the center section of the diff (the pumpkin) will smack the bed floor, and the one thing I know I don't want is anything other than a stock bed floor. I'm not sure if this is simply because the rear is an 8.5" and that means the pumpkin is bigger or what, because I've always heard that you can do a 2.25" notch and lay frame on 24" tires (which mine are) without cutting the bed but there'll only be 0.75"-1" clearance between the top of the pumpkin and the bottom of the bed floor now (and thats with the 9/16" U-bolts hitting the frame, not the top of the axle), so thats why I decided not to notch it. I guess I'll have to see how close to laying it gets
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #615
Well it looks like I'll be about an inch shy of laying, so I've decided to trim the bottom of the frame rail above the axle so the frame will sit in between the uBolts when layed out (instead of the inner uBolts hitting the frame and taking up an extra 9/16" of space), so with that done the rear will be less than 1/2" from laying and the axle will be less than 1/4" from hitting the bottom of the bed floor.

Friday night I had several guys from my work over as well as my cousin again and we got a good bit more done, unfortunately even though I've put almost 2 straight weeks of work into it you cant really tell that I've done much of anything, which is starting to get discouraging. Friday I got the holes for the bag mounts in the frame drilled out and notched out and also made frame support gussets to strengthen the area of the frame the bag mounts to and keep the bag from bending the bottom rail up. Then the bags got bolted in as well as the uBolts tightened, the top shock bolts reinstalled, and the rear hanger bolts tightened (I had had the entire rear suspension assembly pivoted down from the frame and hanging by just the front leaf bolts so as to have no weight hanging on the back of the frame in anticipation of notching the frame). Then the gas tank crossmember got drilled out for the tank to mount to it, and we mounted one side of the tank to it. The zq8 frame brace got the bottom wall of the C channel cut out above the gas tank so the bed can sit down on the frame mounts and clear the tank without the brace being in the way. Lastly (for what I can remember), one of the guys from my work used my torches and straightened out the bent passenger frame rail from where the tranny crossmember had bent it when it got snagged. Then he mounted the new/plated tranny crossmember. Oh, and I started working on recessing the Corvette radiator into the core support, but I didn't get very far.

Saturday in the morning I ran for some parts (picked up a new dipstick tube because the old one got bent to shit when I took it off anticipating mounting the Sanden EDC on the pass side of the motor, bought a new right rear caliper because one of the guys at my work got the stuck bleeder screw out but then took the liberty to assume that the threads were 1/4-20 and tapped them out to that, and unfortunately nobody sells a 1/4-20 bleeder screw, and I also picked up some air fittings and cutting wheels at Menards). Unfortunately I wasn't able to get off of working on Sat so that pretty much killed the day for me, however, my cousin had spent the night (we were up til 3am Fri night working on the truck) and while I was at work he cleaned the shit out of the garage, POR15'd the yoke for the diff, and the bag cups, and made a bracket to weld to the zq8 frame brace to mount the other side of the tank. When I got home I installed the yoke on the diff and then went to install the driveshaft to find another interesting little piece of info...

The oh-so-wonderfully beefy and strong 8.5" rear has a 1" longer snout than the 7.625" rear, so, in addition to not allowing me to lay out because it would hit the bed floor, it now is also requiring me to get my driveshaft shortened by 1" :rant: So after doing that I installed the new rear caliper and then pretty much called it a night for the truck (it was around 5:30) because we were preparing for a party the next day and my wife needed my help doing tons of crap around the house.


So that is as far as it sits right now. I have the driveshaft with me today and after work I will be dropping it off to get it shortened, and then hopefully picking it up tomorrow after work. I still need to weld the tank mount bracket to the zq8 frame brace and finish mounting the tank, teflon tape and connect all the air fittings/valves/etc and mount them, finalize the drivers spring pocket, reassemble the drivers side suspension, and notch for tie rod, then cut/grind/weld the pass spring pocket, reassemble suspension, and notch for tie rod. Then build a bracket to mount the EDC, connect the leader line into the water trap, mount the oiler on the firewall and connect that leader into the EDC, finish recessing the radiator into the core support, install and connect it, then re-assemble the front end. So there's still plenty to do :(
 

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Disturbed Image Trucks
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6,636 Posts
I hear ya dude.... it really sucks how long these things take to build. Making your own parts makes it take longer. Sometimes it can seem overwhelming. I am building a 4 door 2gen jimmy and it is taking forever. I would rather sfbd another regular cab then bag another 4 door blazer.
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #617
I hear ya dude.... it really sucks how long these things take to build. Making your own parts makes it take longer. Sometimes it can seem overwhelming. I am building a 4 door 2gen jimmy and it is taking forever. I would rather sfbd another regular cab then bag another 4 door blazer.
Yeah Blazers are the suck. It took me a year to do a full bag/tub job on a 1st gen blazer because I had to hand build the 4link from a combination of through the hole in the floor and underneath the truck. It would've been so much easier to take the body off the frame but I didn't have the ability to do that
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #618
So I got to thinking just now...

The wheelbase of a 4 door blazer is 107" and my standard cab short bed pickup is 108.3"

My driveshaft is 1" or so too long because the snout of the 8.5" rear is 1" longer than the 7.625" rear, and I can't guarantee that a driveshaft from a 4.3/5speed would work due to possible different lengths and spline counts between the trans'.

BUT...

Does anyone see why a shaft out of a 2wd 4 door blazer wouldn't work? The yoke's on all of the rear's are the same in the way they connect to the driveshaft, and the 2wd blazer would have the same 4L60E auto trans that my truck has, but would be shorter by the amount I need.

Now, the cost of finding one of those might outweigh the cost of simply getting mine shortened (which I already am planning to do and found out from the shop that it will be $70), but this could definately be a solution for anybody who wants to put an 8.5" rear behind a 4.3/Auto in a Standard Cab/Short Bed truck
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #619
Dropped the driveshaft off after work and will pick it up 1" shorter today after work. Other than that no progress for the truck though. Spent some much needed time with my wife and daughter (and puppy :))
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #620
Picked up the driveshaft after work but then had to go to my parents house where my wife was meeting up with me after school (she drops the baby off there during the day on Tuesdays while she goes to school) because my dad had driven to our house to pick them up and then she had taken my parents Yukon to school and then we all ate dinner and rode home together in our TB. On our way home she persuaded me to stop at Menard's to look at wood flooring because we are wanting to re-do our main floor because it is composed of nasty carpet and linoleum. So by the time we got home it was almost 9:30 and I was beat so we watched a lil TV, I rocked the baby to sleep, and then headed up to bed to get a nice long nights sleep (compared to the 3-4 hours of sleep I've been getting per night the past 2 weeks).

Wife has school tonight but I come home and then she'll leave with the truck so it's gonna (hopefully) be a big progress night for the truck. I plan to:

Get the driveshaft installed
Fix the diff breather tube (it rusted off... gonna cut the one off the old rear and weld it on)
Fill the rear with fluid
Install new/stock dipstick tube and stock dipstick
Re-install passenger side exhaust manifold with new gasket
Install stock y-pipe (temporary to get the truck driving)
Install cat and 3rd O2 sensor (temporary until I pass emissions and get a new y-pipe built)
Install Flowmaster
Mark zq8 frame brace for tank bracket to weld to, weld on bracket, paint, mount tank
Drill/tap 1/8"NPT holes in brass 1/2" NPT tee fittings for 1/8" gauge fittings
Finish recessing radiator into core support
Mount Taurus fan to radiator/core support
Teflon tape/connect/mount fittings & valves

*Hopefully* if I get all this done I am on track to have this thing driving by the end of the weekend
 
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