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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As most of you know, I have been undertaking the task of stock floor bodydropping my truck. I started working on some of the front clip over spring break and also worked on it some over the summer. Well the reason I haven't got any farther than that is because I had to pay off about $4,000 worth of debt over the first part of summer and also because my boss (whose shop the truck will be built in) has had trailers in there all summer so far. Well the last trailer is now done and should be coming out some time tomorrow so tomorrow evening I plan to trailer my truck from my grandma's house where it currently is over to the shop. There's a bunch of stuff that I need to do once its there but I won't clutter the first post in this thread with all that.

I ordered several things from Suicidedoors.com and finally got them in today. As of thursday I will have enough money to buy all the steel tubing that I will need to build my SFBD frame. My frame is going to be unique in a lot of ways. Let me tell you about it:

1) I will be building the rear clip of the frame approximately 1" lower than the stock frame. The horizontal (side to side) bed support braces will be removed from them bed and supports will be incorporated into the frame. The supports on the bottom of the bed are 2.5" tall, so that combined with the 1" lower frame lowers the bed down 3.5" for the bodydrop.

2) My notch will go under the axle, so there is not a gigantic notch filling up the stock dimensioned bed.

3) Both my upper and lower 4link bars will be mounted under the axle. The lower bars will be about 1/2" under the axle and the lower bars will be about 6" under the axle and about 3.5" off the ground with the 26" tires I will be running.

4) The only thing that will be in the stock dimension bed will be the top half of the axle...everything else will be mounted underneath. The notches and 4link as already stated, the bags (2:1 lever mounted on the lower bars), the fuel cell, the air tanks and compressor (when I get an Oasis....for now I'm running a York EDC), the battery, and 2 flowmasters eventually


I also had my friend Zane (Zaney444 on the forum) make me custom axle brackets for mounting my 4link to my axle since he works at a machine shop. They came out excellently and should work perfectly for my application. He does some great work and I would highly recommend contacting him if you need any custom machined parts made.

OK, on with the pics!


My SD stuff that came in today:

2 round adjustable bars for the uppers, 2 square adjustable bars for the lowers, 2 AirLift Gen 2 180psi 2B7's (2600s), and a pair of upper bag brackets.

The awesome brackets that Zane machined for me:


The drawing of how the 4link will be mounted under the axle:


My bars, bags and brackets, and a wheel mocked up at 3.5" ride height (lower bars level):

(the bag won't actually be inflated that much)

and everything setup for layed out:




Hopefully I will have a lot more pics tomorrow night if I am able to get my truck over to my boss's shop. Stay tuned!
 

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Time to finish
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sounds cool, I had thought of running both bars under the axel for a blazer in order to keep interior cutting to as a little as possible. the only potential problem I see is if you lowest bar is to low it may drag on speed bumps. and I realize that the pics are rough mock ups but is the losets bar below the bottom of the rim. if so a cop could probably give you a ticket for it just like if your u-bolts hang below your rim. Looking at your diagram you may need to shorten the lower bracket. From center of the axel to center of the bar end is 8.5. it says your bar end has a two inch diameter. so half that is one inch add that to your 8.5 and you have 9.5 half of 18 is 9 so your an half inch to low not counting that a tab usually hangs a few fractions past the bar end. You said you want to use a 26 inch tall tire so Im assuming your keeping your 18's. My solution to this is to get 20's :). Im not trying to be an ass but thats something you may want to look at you dont want to blow a tire and be dragging four link. its also dangerous for you and other drivers.
 

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Now owns an S-10
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this project sounds cool, i'm gonna keep an eye on this one! I like your stock floor bed and under axle ideas!
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
LT250 said:
sounds cool, I had thought of running both bars under the axel for a blazer in order to keep interior cutting to as a little as possible. the only potential problem I see is if you lowest bar is to low it may drag on speed bumps. and I realize that the pics are rough mock ups but is the losets bar below the bottom of the rim. if so a cop could probably give you a ticket for it just like if your u-bolts hang below your rim. Looking at your diagram you may need to shorten the lower bracket. From center of the axel to center of the bar end is 8.5. it says your bar end has a two inch diameter. so half that is one inch add that to your 8.5 and you have 9.5 half of 18 is 9 so your an half inch to low not counting that a tab usually hangs a few fractions past the bar end. You said you want to use a 26 inch tall tire so Im assuming your keeping your 18's. My solution to this is to get 20's :). Im not trying to be an ass but thats something you may want to look at you dont want to blow a tire and be dragging four link. its also dangerous for you and other drivers.
the lower bar shouldn't drag on speed bumps or anything because I will be able to air it up a total of 9", and the 3.5" of clearance under the bars at the axle is just that....at the axle. The wheel would hit the speed bump and go over it (bringing the lower bar with it) before the lower bar would hit. The lowest bar is not below the rim either. the outside lip of an 18" rim is actually 19.5" in diameter. So I have about 3" of tire and 3.5" of clearance, so the tabs/4link wouldn't be below the rim nor would they drag if I got a flat. The 26" tall tire is what I have with my 18's right now and will be the size tire I run when I run 20's eventually :p.

Thanks for your concern but I have already thought of these things and addressed them appropriately. :D
 

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layinbody31 said:
the lower bar shouldn't drag on speed bumps or anything because I will be able to air it up a total of 9", and the 3.5" of clearance under the bars at the axle is just that....at the axle. The wheel would hit the speed bump and go over it (bringing the lower bar with it) before the lower bar would hit. The lowest bar is not below the rim either. the outside lip of an 18" rim is actually 19.5" in diameter. So I have about 3" of tire and 3.5" of clearance, so the tabs/4link wouldn't be below the rim nor would they drag if I got a flat. The 26" tall tire is what I have with my 18's right now and will be the size tire I run when I run 20's eventually :p.

Thanks for your concern but I have already thought of these things and addressed them appropriately. :D
alright cool deal, that what was just the first thing I noticed. This sounds like an awesome project. I wish I had stock floored my truck I thought it'd be faster to do a traditional but I still stipped the frame to get it painted so I didnt save any time and now I have less head room:(. It sounds like you have yours way more planned out then I did mine I just started cutting and welding as I went.
 

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LT250 said:
I think the notch will basicly be on the ground when its aired out and he can lift it like 9 inches before the notch hits the axel
I don't even think he is gonna get that much. I'm still trying to figure out he's gonna stock floor the bed without cutting the wheel wells. I don't see the truck laying rocker, I'm sorry.
 

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The other "BODY" man
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Ok,, so this project sounds good,,

But I agree LT250 on the speed bump thing, You'll have to air up everytime you see one,

it's not that the wheel will ride up the bump and the bars will too, to clear the bump,, but when your front tires go over the bump, the bump is now prolly close to hitting your lower bars now,, cause the truck is now technically back on level ground, with a bump under your truck, say your bars are 6 inches off the ground, and the bump is 6 inches high,, scrape! cause your bars come before your wheel! And if you get those huge speed humps, you may be in trouble,,
going to a 20 wheel, may be good,, but you're building it and prolly know what your doing, just a heads up!
 

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Why not LAY FRAME ?????
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i dont really understand how this will work - - - when you air up the truck

wont the frame under the axle (step notch) hit the axel when u lift the truck . . . cus usually when you lift your rear end, its the whole frame lifts up and away from your axle, which gives you more clearnce.

i dont think it will work
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Southern said:
Okay. If the notch is going beneath the axel how are you going to get any lift?
the notch will lay on the ground when the rest of the frame lays on the ground. The frame at the notch will be 2.5" thick and since I'm running 26" diameter tires (13" radius) there will be that 13" minus the 2.5" thick frame (10.5") minus half the axle width (2.75" divided by 2 equals 1.375") for a total of 9.125" of space between the bottom of the axle and the top of the notch. This is the amount of lift that I will get. With the axle above the frame, lift is limited instead of drop.
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Southern said:
I don't even think he is gonna get that much. I'm still trying to figure out he's gonna stock floor the bed without cutting the wheel wells. I don't see the truck laying rocker, I'm sorry.
The wheelwells will have to get raised, but everything else about the bed will be stock. The truck WILL lay rocker.
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
fauker said:
Ok,, so this project sounds good,,

But I agree LT250 on the speed bump thing, You'll have to air up everytime you see one,

it's not that the wheel will ride up the bump and the bars will too, to clear the bump,, but when your front tires go over the bump, the bump is now prolly close to hitting your lower bars now,, cause the truck is now technically back on level ground, with a bump under your truck, say your bars are 6 inches off the ground, and the bump is 6 inches high,, scrape! cause your bars come before your wheel! And if you get those huge speed humps, you may be in trouble,,
going to a 20 wheel, may be good,, but you're building it and prolly know what your doing, just a heads up!
The bars WILL ride up the bump with the rear tires, but they don't go completely with the rear axle....they pivot at the rear axle. SO bumps AT THE REAR AXLE are not a problem. Now you do have a point. The bars will be angled from 3.5" off the ground to whatever height I'm aired up to. Here's where you are thinking limitedly. I am able to get 9" of lift in the rear and probably close to that in the front as well (2600s up front). With the back part of the bar 3.5" off the ground in the center of the rear wheel, and the front of the bar 9" off the ground, there will be a pretty decent angle on the bar. Now think about where the bar intersects the leading edge of the tire that will hit the bump first. This will be about 6-7" at full lift. So basically I'll have to air all the way up to go over anything 6" tall, but how often do you go over things 6" tall? the only thing I know of that's that tall is my curb at the end of my driveway. Any other speed bumps that are that large I know ways to go around them :D

As for running 20's...I will be eventually, but they will have tires of the same overall diameter of my 18" tires on them.
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
cab said:
how do the bars mount in the front? (to the frame)
They mount in a way very similar to how a 4link bar would mount into a stock S10 front leafspring pocket on a stock S10 frame. At ride height of 3.5" they will be level with the whole frame.
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
someguy2892 said:
i dont really understand how this will work - - - when you air up the truck

wont the frame under the axle (step notch) hit the axel when u lift the truck . . . cus usually when you lift your rear end, its the whole frame lifts up and away from your axle, which gives you more clearnce.

i dont think it will work
Yes, if I air up the truck 9.125" the axle will hit the notch. It will work just fine...I will just be limited to 9.125" of lift.
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, I have my boss's trailer ready and waiting to go get my truck. I now just have to go over to his shop to do a few final touches on the trailer thats in there and then once he gets there at 8:15 or so I'll switch trucks with him and come home to get my mom's Tahoe and the trailer and then go get my truck. I'll take plenty of pics so don't worry :D
 

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i too want to see this. but other than the limited lift of 9", when you lay out: your pumpkin will also hit the bottom of the bed. so you would have to cut out the floor of the bed anyway. just a thought
 
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