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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
Honestly, if you are truely building this with the intentions of giving this to your daughter when she turns 16 I would make it an auto. Not saying she can't ;earn to drive a stick, I just know how 16 year old girls are when they drive. They don't focus enough as it is and adding the factor of shifting is just one more worry.

Also just to give you a little inspriation on the no pillar idea, here's a full size being built with no pillars.




That's awesome, thanks for the pics! One question about it though... can you open the rear door without opening the front door first? I'm going to try to tackle making that a reality with mine :)


And as far as the stick goes, I absolutely love a stick, and I'm sure she'll know how to drive stick when she's like 5 years old, but if I'm worried she may be too distracted I could always swap it for an Auto 15 years from now :D
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #342 ·
How far does the cladding hang below the rockers? What if you just body dropped it so that the cladding almost lays, then the front driveshaft tunnel should be too big.
That's what I would be doing, however only the front 4wd clip would need the bodydrop because the height of the body on a 2wd would put the cladding level with the bottom of the frame, but the body sits 1.5" higher on a 4wd so I'd have to bodydrop the front clip 1.5" to make it all level and lay out
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #343 ·
you can find cladding from time to time on ebay and there is some on syty.net
Jim, other than the front bumper cover, can you use any of the Sonoma GT cladding in conjunction with Sy cladding (in other words, are they interchangeable)? Or are they different parts?
 

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Turbocharged Pimp
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Jim, other than the front bumper cover, can you use any of the Sonoma GT cladding in conjunction with Sy cladding (in other words, are they interchangeable)? Or are they different parts?
Only parts that are interchangable are the front bumper cover and the rear roll pan everything else is different
 

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CREW CAB LONG BED
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a lot of restructer to the roof needs to be done to run a pillarless setup like yankee did to that fullsize just an fyi

and it looks like the rear door latches to body at bottom and the front door latches to the rear door so u would have to open front door first or close rear door first however u wanna say it
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #348 ·
a lot of restructer to the roof needs to be done to run a pillarless setup like yankee did to that fullsize just an fyi

and it looks like the rear door latches to body at bottom and the front door latches to the rear door so u would have to open front door first or close rear door first however u wanna say it
Yeah I know I'll have to do a lot of strengthening to the A and C pillars, the full roof structure, and the rockers. But it will be worth it.

Yeah looking closer at the fullsize you can see that they used the hinge and latch area of an Xcab door grafted to either side of the crewcab rear door, in addition to the latch area of the rocker and roof frame from the Xcab as well.

I am working out a way to do a moveable B pillar that will be attached to the rear door so that the rear door can be opened independently of the front
 

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Flame It ALL
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Sy-Clone +2 Doors/Cyl would be awesome could keep the air-ride too to keep it comfortable and have adjustable suspension, keeping the '91 to have slammed is not a bad idea either and unless you have a big system in the back, in a few years your daughter will think that the jump seats are awesome anyway.
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #350 ·
Sy-Clone +2 Doors/Cyl would be awesome could keep the air-ride too to keep it comfortable and have adjustable suspension, keeping the '91 to have slammed is not a bad idea either and unless you have a big system in the back, in a few years your daughter will think that the jump seats are awesome anyway.
You got it. Not sure about the jumpseats though since I will actually be doing a no B pillar 4door setup on the '91 as well, but I could always get some from a Ranger or something where they attach the the back wall.

And as far as the crew cab is concerned, I think I have officially decided what I will do with it. Since it will be a while before I'm able to have a drivetrain and therefore drive it, I'm thinking that I will bodydrop it to lay rocker for now, since I've built the frame with the 3x3 and whatnot. I will raise the floorpans to clear the frame, but I will not raise the trans tunnel or make any kind of front driveshaft tunnel, transfer case hump, etc. Then I will bodydrop the old rusty black bed from the '91 and put that on it. So this way when it's just a rolling frame/body it can lay rocker.

But then when it comes to install the turbo LT1/5speed/AWD drivetrain I will also install a full custom set of Syclone cladding, the nice rust free bed, and raise the bodymounts up on the frame so that the cladding lays flat. Might have to do a small bodydrop on the bed at that point but it will be close. Once everything raises up that will create the clearance for the trans/transfercase/front driveshaft, and since the frame is thinner and the floorpans would be raised it will allow a lot of extra room under the truck for running exhaust and all the drivetrain components, etc.

Now the only question is this... since eventually the truck will become the "SyCrew" (I'm thinking that's what I've decided I'll call it), and since true Sy's were only built in '91, and also since I'm using the original '91 cab for the project (and by law you're not allowed to switch VIN tags out of the cab), do I title the crewcab as the '91, to make it seem even more that it's some bastard factory V8 crewcab Sy? This would mean that the '91 would be titled as an '89 because of the new cab I have for it. It's just what the government knows, and to me it will always be the '91, but I also think it'd be cool to have the SyCrew titled as a '91
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #351 ·
Played around with the angle finder a bit last week, but other than that it was too hot out to get any kind of work done in the garage. I was able to bear the heat/humidity for a bit on Saturday to put the Taurus Efan I have on the Sonoma, but that doesn't pertain to this thread. Anyway, here's some pics of things I found interesting

Upper arm on the 4wd clip when layed out on my 18s (245/40-18... 25.6" OD)





And if you couldn't read it in that one, hopefully you can in this one



Yes, that is correct... the upper arms are just a hair under 45°. Then I wedged the angle finder way up in the suspension and set it on top of the half shaft. Couldn't get the light in there so I had to rely on the flash of the camera for lighting. Unfortunately it didn't turn out the greatest, but if you look close you can see the numbers



Yes, the halfshaft is at a 42° angle. Gonna have to find some serious replacements for these if I plan on laying out on these wheels, let alone anything bigger (like some 22s). I have read up a bit on how these function and it seems like I can probably find an alternative that would work out better, but I still have some research to do
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #353 ·
We had to build custom uppers for mine as you can see the upper ball joints will be hating you! lol
Oh yeah I found that one out too lol

I ended up putting a pie cut slit in the stock upper arms with the sawzall and saw that close up a bit as the suspension layed out/compressed.

Do you know if the taper and bolt pattern on these 4wd upper balljoints is the same as a 2wd S10 upper balljoint?
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #354 ·
Oh, also Jim... What's the biggest size tire you ever had yours laying flat on with the halfshafts intact? Were your old 18s running 245/40s like I am? But you haven't been able to lay flat out until you converted to 2wd and modded the oil pan, right?
 

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Turbocharged Pimp
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1,616 Posts
my old 18's were 245-40 and Im actually running 2wd power performance upper ball joints in mine with no issues
 

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DELIBERATE DESIGNS
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8,136 Posts
Looking good brent!

And IIRC, mustang II upper ball joints have the same taper and everything compared to my 2wd balljoints. You can find the mustang II spindle dimensions online and compare the upper ball joint seat dimensions and compare. If I remember correctly there were extremely close in size.

Then you can order machined cups and use threaded upper balljoints and make some sick ass arms!:D
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #357 ·
my old 18's were 245-40 and Im actually running 2wd power performance upper ball joints in mine with no issues
Cool, that's what I thought Jim. How close did you come to laying frame with the 245/40s?
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #358 ·
Looking good brent!

And IIRC, mustang II upper ball joints have the same taper and everything compared to my 2wd balljoints. You can find the mustang II spindle dimensions online and compare the upper ball joint seat dimensions and compare. If I remember correctly there were extremely close in size.

Then you can order machined cups and use threaded upper balljoints and make some sick ass arms!:D
Sounds good Jordan :tup:

Although I was probably going to be building my tubular arms utilizing 2wd Power Performance upper joints, like Jim did. But the tubulars are a long ways off...
 

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Turbocharged Pimp
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My current tires are 245-40 I think the issue I had was the cv axles hitting the lower control arm and the hump on the oil pan I guess my front diff hung a bit lower than a normal 4wd diff
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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13,484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #360 ·
My current tires are 245-40 I think the issue I had was the cv axles hitting the lower control arm and the hump on the oil pan I guess my front diff hung a bit lower than a normal 4wd diff
I just scanned back through your thread and you had said that your fronts were 245/35s... did you switch them out??

Because of how I split the lower arm in 2 pieces I don't have any issues with the CV hitting the lower arm, but the front diff does hang at the scrub line or a little below. Did you do anything do raise your diff? Or did you just remove it when you pulled the CVs?

I think what is actually causing the suspension to stop moving in mine is the CVs themselves
 
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