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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
Want to be sure I’m clear about this. I feel like the Weber is providing more horsepower so the transmission is reaching shifting speed sooner and with less RPM. So, would the kickdown cable need to be adjusted to shift at a higher speed?

I’m probably still confusing people but hey,
Yowakawaka
 

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Before you have a stroke, read this thread and check out the site mentioned.

 

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I had a lot of trouble with the TV cable when I had the 4bbl. The instructions to adjust didn’t get it shifting right. Way too early. It took some trial and error. I think you run much more risk to damaging the transmission if it shifts too soon than too late. I’ve set mine to downshift a little soon and shift a bit later when in it. The transmission was rebuilt in 2006 and I haven’t harmed it like that. Lazy shifting though i could see how that will damage it, just by how it shifts.
 

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Glad to hear that you’re seeing the performance increase. The difference between the factory and the Holley was simply unbelievable! The very first time I stepped in it just to move forward I was like….”woah”.
 

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Hey man! What’s the update?
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
What up @jimmykicker my bad on the updates. I’ve been busy. Plus my brothers been taking up the driveway on wrench day. This Friday’s mine tho.

I’ve ran two tanks of gas through there with the Weber. The first one I was pretty much racing around town. The second I was just cruising. Both the same routes to work and my garage. I got close 14.5 mpg on each. I still haven’t taken a highway trip. I see the performance on take off but I really see it when getting on the freeway. I can actually keep up with traffic.

Tomorrow I’m gonna check the flex plate bolts and make sure there not loose. I think that’s the noise I always complain about. The bell housing cover is already off so I’m just gonna slide back the torque converter and check the bolts with a torque wrench.

I want to retune the Weber but the weathers been everywhere. I did a very rough tuning when I set it up the first time and I know it can get better power and mpg.

I still haven’t messed with the fuel line but it’s working fine. I have a metal filter sitting in the cup holder I’ve been waiting to replace the plastic one with. One thing I noticed with the carb is the gas pedal hung lower to the floor. I ended up jut putting two zip ties around the metal line that connects to the petal to take up some slack. Did any of you guys have this problem and bowed you go about fixing it? I’ll take a photo. It’s pretty funny how shetty it is….but it works!!!

But yeah….it runs pretty good. No choke so I gas it at 5am for like 2 minutes. Probably hated by my neighbor but mans gotta live his life.

Tomorrow I’m gonna get some stuff done and I’ll keep you posted. Hopefully one of the flex plate bolts is loose and that noise goes away. Drive me crazy!!!! I want to take a small trip too so I wanted to make sure the carb was reliable.

Just a heads up, I’m looking around the side still. Just not posting.

Yowakawaka
 

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Had me worried there brah!

Any carb swap versus the stock one is gonna be an improvement! I tell you what man. These trucks don't get great mileage anyway. I've been told by some folks that they could get 20+. I've never seen that personally. I've gotten about 16 at best, and that is with the EFI setup from the 91 that is currently on it! My old 91 wouldn't get 20 and it was almost new when I got it. If you get 16-18 I think you're probably doing pretty good in an old carbureted truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
@jimmykicker fingers crossed on the 16-18 on mpg. I’d take it! I nearly touched it and it’s at 14.5. It runs really good tho! No problems at all. At least as I can tell.

It’s raining today. Hopefully the sun comes out enough so I can at least check the bolts. Keep getting hit with curve balls.

I’ll keep you updated,
Yowakawaka
 

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Had me worried there brah!

Any carb swap versus the stock one is gonna be an improvement! I tell you what man. These trucks don't get great mileage anyway. I've been told by some folks that they could get 20+. I've never seen that personally. I've gotten about 16 at best, and that is with the EFI setup from the 91 that is currently on it! My old 91 wouldn't get 20 and it was almost new when I got it. If you get 16-18 I think you're probably doing pretty good in an old carbureted truck.
You have a 3.4L right? So you put a MPFI system off of a 3.1L instead of the SFI system that a 3.4L would've come with? Or I guess a TBI system? I would think an SFI system would get you well into the 20's on the highway with overdrive.
 

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You have a 3.4L right? So you put a MPFI system off of a 3.1L instead of the SFI system that a 3.4L would've come with? Or I guess a TBI system? I would think an SFI system would get you well into the 20's on the highway with overdrive.
I have a regular ass TBI system from a 1991 truck on it. My truck is an 84, so I retrofitted it on there. My truck's engine was never in a Camaro. It's a crate engine I got in 2010 right before they quit making them around 2011. To be fair, it's not tuned. It has 4.3 injectors on it with a bored out stock intake. I'm sure it could be better. I had the 4bbl Holley tuned pretty well though too and it never got good fuel economy either though. Usually around 14-15. Oddly enough, it didn't matter how I drove it or where. On trips it got that. Around town it got that. Driving it like grandpa it got that. Standing on the throttle all the time it got about that. But with EFI you are right....I should be doing at least around 20.

Truth is I need to get busy on tuning the truck. It has been 8 years after doing the conversion to TBI, but I have no experience in doing so. The truck isn't my daily, but a toy at this point. I have had it for 24 years! It was a pizza delivery truck for a decade. I got out of that in 2009 and the truck was so junky it was either fix it up or junk it. I chose to fix it up. Plan on keeping it until I can't really keep it up anymore and hopefully someone will want it that can respect it and not hack it up into a V8 deathtrap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 · (Edited)
I checked the flex plate bolts this weekend and realized I couldn’t even get to them with a torque wrench. The torque converter only backed out about a 1/2”. I should have known better. I’ve dint the job before. Just didn’t think it through. On the positive side, I started the truck with the torque converter unbolted and the noise is definitely coming from the flex plate. It has a pretty good wiggle. Looking back, I should have tried to get a wrench in there to snug them up. I just don’t want to break the thread lock on the bolts. I do feel better knowing what the noise is tho. I’m just gonna wait for it to bread and replace it. Should be fine for a while.

Tracked another tank and got 14.6 mpg. Super consistent with however I drive. For tuning, does it matter if I do it with the weather chang we’re having? How much does it really effect it?

Cool the hear you guys are talking about EFI. I’m considering it for my Jimmy. Main thing is keeping the check engine light off so I can pass smog. Crazy to think you can take off a pos carb, spend and time on the swap, and still get bad gas mileage. Probably worth it in my case tho considering my Jimmy doesn’t run lol. What’s something like that cost to do on a 2.8 1985? My coworker said forget all that and LS it. Probably not likely.

Yowakawaka
 

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I checked the flex plate bolts this weekend and realized I couldn’t even get to them with a torque wrench. The torque converter only backed out about a 1/2”. I should have known better. I’ve dint the job before. Just didn’t think it through. On the positive side, I started the truck with the torque converter unbolted and the noise is definitely coming from the flex plate. It has a pretty good wiggle. Looking back, I should have tried to get a wrench in there to snug them up. I just don’t want to break the thread lock on the bolts. I do feel better knowing what the noise is tho. I’m just gonna wait for it to bread and replace it. Should be fine for a while.

Tracked another tank and got 14.6 mpg. Super consistent with however I drive. For tuning, does it matter if I do it with the weather change we’re having? How much does it really effect it?

Cool the hear you guys are talking about EFI. I’m considering it for my Jimmy. Main thing is keeping the check engine light off so I can pass smog. Crazy to think you can take off a pos carb, spend and time on the swap, and still get bad gas mileage. Probably worth it in my case tho considering my Jimmy doesn’t run lol. What’s something like that cost to do on a 2.8 1985? My coworker said forget all that and LS it. Probably not likely.

Yowakawaka

Well, the noise from mine that I thought was the flexplate has stopped. At least for now. I'm sure it will rear it's ugly head again.

When I was carbed, I got consistently around 14-15. Did not matter if I drove like grandpa, or stood on the accelerator at every light. I truly believe you can do better with a little tuning. I'm sure mine would too.

The EFI swap isn't that hard. Easiest way to do it is to collect the parts from a donor truck. Since your truck is the same engine etc, it should be good out of the box and not require any real tuning unless you want to. Plus you can get rid of all that stupid vacuum stuff all over the motor. I converted the V belts to the single serpentine belt too. All of that is in the sticky at the top of 2.8 section. I had some trouble initially getting it to start, but it was a me problem, not a truck problem. I'll say the trickiest part to this swap is wiring up the harness. Instead of pulling a harness for the dash and all, I just made the EFI standalone. In your case if you can find a whole donor truck, you might find it easier to swap all the guts from the dash of the other one. There's another dude on here that had a later truck and an earlier truck and swapped the dash wiring and all. Maybe a year or two ago. He said most of it worked without any real modifications and retaining the older, (better constructed and better looking) dashboard. In my case, I bought a Painless fusebox and put the required circuits in that and mounted it under the dash on the passenger side. What year is your blazer? My 84 is a Federal truck, but interestingly enough, it had a indention in the plastic where the hole for the EFI harness goes through to the motor. Just drilled that, bolted the stock pieces on, connected the required parts, and ran power to the computer, and it lit up just like that! Well...no it didn't, but that was me! Starts super easy, runs smoother, gets a little better mileage, and significantly more power. Now, disclaimer. My truck is 3.4 with 4.3 TBI on a bored intake. Your results may vary. HOWEVER, there are folks that ran that 4.3, bored configuration on 2.8's and tuned that said it ran like a banshee over stock. Holley in fact made a TBI unit that was basically the same thing and almost the same CFM. I don't know if that thing is even available though anymore. I'd be happy to help you with the swap if you do it. I will say this. If you decide to do it, spend some time learning the system and studying the wiring diagram. I mean really get to know how it works. It's pretty simple to be honest. Compared to modern stuff it's a cinch. That'll help you considerably when installing it.

And ignore those LS fanboys. Sure you can shove a motor in truck that wasn't designed for it, that's too heavy for the suspension, and have you nice ill-handling, hard to wrench on, barely fitting, deathtrap. Fast? Yes! Fun? Well maybe. Except you feel like you're gonna die driving it. There's a lot more expense than a motor and transmission to make a GOOD V8 swap. Lot of people don't like to mention that part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 · (Edited)
@jimmykicker I'm talking about my 85 S15 Jimmy for the EFI swap, I'm gonna try swapping the MAP sensor first tho. I test the original one with a multimeter and it read high voltage to low voltage. It's supposed to read low voltage to high with more vacuum. Or maybe it's the other way around??? Something like that. Just before I parked it she ran like a dime! One stutter/misfire before I got to my house and in the morning it was done. stuttered all the way back to the garage. So anyway, I'm gonna try that then study the wiring diagram for my 83 S10 and try to fix the dash lights. They're very similar so that will give me an idea of how they work. I'm still very far from learning how to read the diagram but am learning.

So what year truck do I need to get parts from for my 85 S15 Jimmy? I should probably mention it has that crap computer-controlled carb on it. I'm gonna look up that thread you mentioned and see what I need. I don't mind pulling the dash. I just want it to stop sitting in the driveway.

Like I mentioned before, my biggest concern is the check engine light. If I swap over the harness and computer, it shouldn't come on, right? I heard illegal smogs went up to 300 bucks now and I'm sure it's not long till it's almost impossible to even get one.

For the LS swap, that's what I figured. Way more than just a motor and tranny swap.

Like always, I always appreciate the help!!! I'm ordering the new MAP sensor now and if it doesn't work then I'm gonna take you up on that help @jimmykicker

TIll the MAP Sensor is on,
Yowakawaka
 

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Well since it’s apparently a CA truck, you’re in good shape. It already has the hole and the ECM. Most folks say anything after 88 I think? Mine is 91 system. All of it but the ECM. I am not the expert on that I can promise you that! Most of my conversion was parts swapping. To be honest ? The EFI trucks and the carbed trucks are almost exactly the same under the dash. The only difference is the EFI harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
@jimmykicker it is a California emissions vehicle. I was reading through the thread where you converted yours and it didn’t seem very easy. Haha! I ordered the map sensor and will put it on as soon as it gets here. Im gonna make a post on it in a bit. I’ll have two threads going but when i get tired of one I can work on the other.

As for this thread, the 83 S10 with the Weber swap, when’s the best time to adjust the carb? It’s gotten a lot colder and it’s idling high early in the morning. I lost 1 mpg on this last tank too (13.5 mpg). Should I adjust it when it’s at the hottest point of the day?

Thanks for all the help,
Yowakawaka
 
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