S-10 Forum banner
141 - 160 of 175 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Been a little busy so haven’t had much time to wrench on the old girl. Helped my brother change the valve cover gasket in his Honda Pilot 3.5L this week. You have to pull the intake and a bunch of wires to get it. Not that hard but definitely a pain.

Since I have a 3 day weekend, I’m gonna put all the other jobs I need to do to the S10 and try to get the carb on and working tomorrow. I’ve read the directions a few times and went over the @jcrichet post a few times as well.

So here’s what I know so far:
1) Most the vacuum lines behind the carb are easy as per the directions.
2) The original fuel line can be used. Just add a soft line and loop it around the oil fill tube. Put in fuel pressure regulator after filter.
3) linkages should all match up.
4) There needs to be aplace to plug in the PVC valve, fuel line (easy), return fuel line (where is it?), vacuum advance, and other things on the directions.

What still confuses me:
1) The vacuum hoses on the front of the motor. @jcricket explains this but it’s still a little confusing. I’m not sure if emissions plays into this as well.
2) Where is the fuel return line (both ends). I want to identify it so I know to hook it up on the new carb.

Im sure I’m forgetting something but I’m gonna try anyway. I’ll read over the instructions and post again before but I’m going for it tomorrow!

@jimmykicker I didn’t forget about you. I did some poking around and will share things later. First carb!!!

See you in the other side,
Yowakawaka
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Alright guys I’m already stuck. Check out the directions. The “?” are where I’m stuck. I don’t have the hose that it’s referring too nor the port on the original carb.

Gesture Font Writing Paper Paper product
Gesture Font Thumb Circle Recipe
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive fuel system Coil Electrical wiring


Im guessing it’s referring to the hose that goes to the MAP sensor that’s on the electric Rochester. This is a regular carb I’m swapping out. Does anyone actually know???

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #143 ·
Alright, got everything together and am having some problems. I’ll just run down the list.

Biggest problem is what did you do about the kick down cable not connecting to the round fitting on the carb.
Gesture Finger Eyewear Nail Cosmetics

It looks like the plastic part of the kickdown cable is too thick for the round fitting on the carb. I’m thinking grind down the plastic but I’m worried it’ll break in time.

Where do you hook up the throttle spring? There’s no hole or anything. Am I just drilling a hole here?
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Hood Automotive fuel system


lastly for now, the air filter housing doesn’t fit!!! This pisses me off because it’s supposed to!! What’s your fix? I’m guessing grind it down so it fits. Still lame!
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Helmet Bumper


I got the hoses figured out to the best of my knowledge. It did start!!! That’s the good part. Let me say, WOW!!!!! Sounds like a beast!!!!!!!!!!!! I can’t wait to drive it!!!!

I just plugged in all the vacuum hoses and fuel line longer than needed. I need to clean all that up so it looks good and fits right. I didn’t delete anything. I just plugged lines. It’s more messy but I want to be able to put the old carb back in easily.

I know your all partying and having a good time this weekend so let me know how you guys have gone about fixing this stuff when you can.

Best thing I’ve done to the old girl!!!!

Party on Wayne,
Yowakawaka
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #144 ·
@Mad Max wanted to get you in on this because I know your the Picasso of Weber’s. How do you get the kickdown cable attached to the carb? Is that what that little ball with screw is for?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #145 ·
I was looking around today and realized that the kit came with this little adapter ball bolt to fit the kickdown cable to the carb.
Finger Gas Auto part Ammunition Gun accessory

What I’m wondering what you guys did to get this thing on. Did you just drill a hole and screw it on? If so, where did you position it on the tab? I’m thinking the stock Weber tab thing needs to be grounded off so the ball screw can go in it’s place. Curious as to what you guys have done in this situation.

So Like I said in an earlier post, I didn’t really delete any vacuum hoses. Just capped some. Most were on the front of the carb. What needed to be added wasn’t very much. I think it was just a vacuum line or two with some tees/adapters and the fuel line. I read that @jcricket was gonna hook up the emissions stuff. I’d be interested to see how that went. I’ll probably do a write up on how to install everything later.

What I did have a question on is the fuel line I set up. Does this look sketchy to you guys?
Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Auto part Nut
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Vehicle Automotive fuel system
Camera lens Finger Automotive tire Cameras & optics Electric blue

My first concern is the filter. Is it any good? I’d like to have a decent one that won’t leak and burn down my truck.

Will the length effect anything? The directions say to roughy it around the oil fill tube. I’ll be cutting the fuel line that goes to the carb shorter.

Other than that, it’s a vacuum mess and I’m cleaning it up. I should replace lines to but want the thin stuff and can’t find it.

I’ll be fixing on her this week and keeping you all updated.

Till then,
Yowakawaka
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #146 ·
So I got the air box figured out. Just punched the sides and got it to fit.
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


I decided not to keep that plastic filter. I feel like it’s gonna leak and cause a fire. Has anyone used any of the below filters with success? I plan on leaving it on the car for a while and don’t want to burn it down.

Font Line Screenshot Software Technology
Font Line Cylinder Gas Engineering


Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
30,346 Posts
M metal filter is better. You are going to change the fuel line routing from the previous pic aren't you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #148 ·
I wasn’t going to. The directions say to run the fuel line around the oil filler tube. What do you suggest @Rhotpursuit. I just don’t want to cut the original steel line. Tomorrow everything should be good to go but that’s all I was worried about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #149 ·
I wasn’t going to. The directions say to run the fuel line around the oil filler tube. What do you suggest @Rhotpursuit. I just don’t want to cut the original steel line. Tomorrow everything should be good to go but that’s all I was worried about.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
30,346 Posts
I think I would bend up some metal line to keep it tucked/secured out of the way. That hose is going to flop around like a wounded duck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #151 ·
That was the original plan @Rhotpursuit. If the filter is 5/16, the line would be the same correct? Im gonna run the soft hose set up for now. I need to get it running for now. Fuel and vacuum lines are still gonna get touched up. I was thinking of getting a roll of hard line and using that. It’s only like 20 bucks online.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
30,346 Posts
I'd size the filter to the hose.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
30,346 Posts
I don’t have a clue. What size hose fits the fuel pump?…can you measure the steel line that’s there now?
 

·
Awww..you ain't got shit!
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
I've used those Fram G3 filters for years like you have without an issue. When I put my Holley on there, I just cut the original line further down and spliced in a piece of soft line in there. Unless you have a reason to put the original carb back on there, just mod it and forget it. One thing I will mention is to make sure to run a file over where you cut if if you used a hacksaw or similar. Burrs on the line are bad. Can eventually cut through the line. Just a few passes with a bastard file and you are good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #156 ·
@jimmykicker I need to be able to put the old carb on for smog so I don’t want to cut the original line. I’m gonna put a new hard line on after some time. For now I need to get her running. As for the filter, I’m gonna get a metal one. The plastic one looks like a engine fire waiting to happen.

Today I got most of it together and cleaned up a bit.

Got the kickdown ball on.
Household hardware Gas Auto part Machine Metal


Connected the linkages. I don’t think this should be a problem but the cruse control and throttle linkage aren’t completely straight.
Light Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Gas Engineering


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle part Bumper Automotive wheel system


Air box fits nice!
Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design


Other than that I just shortened a few hoses before I ran out of time.

Tomorrow she need to be running. I can get her going but was wondering about the choke. My choke wire doesn’t work right now so I’m not even gonna hook it up. I would adjust it to keep the blades open right? Then I can just feather the pedal till it warms up.

I think that’s it for now. If you’ve been around them you’ll know I’ll have more questions.

Huge thanks!!!
Yowakawaka
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #157 ·
Got everything set up and took it for the first drive and I will say.......DAMN, what a difference! It takes off way faster with little throttle. I’ll be taking it on the freeway today to see what she can do. It doesn’t do much if I put the pedal to the floor. It’s like the motor is like “Too Much”. With just the right amount of pedal tho, She Flys!!!

I didn’t drive it too much because it was shifting at 15mph and I feel like it was too soon. The RPMs are different with each carb right? The Rochester shifted at the same 15mph but the Weber feels like it’s still building speed when it shifts at 15mph. I adjusted the kick down cable the same way as always (push button and pedal to the floor).

When tuning, I just followed the directions. Spun the two mixture screws all the way in and 1 turn out for base setting. Spin them in 1/4 turn at a time till it stumbles/dies and spin out till runs smooth. More than 1-1/2 turns out it too much. I’m at 1-1/4 turn. Question - both mixture screws are supposed to be out the same amount of turns right? Then I adjusted the idle screw. I think 1/2 a turn at max and I was 1/4 plus a little for about 700 RPM. I’m gonna run a tank or two to get the MPG and go from there.

Cheers to Friday,
Yowakawaka
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
30,346 Posts
Did you adjust the TV cable? If not, you stand a good chance of destroying your transmission.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #159 ·
@Rhotpursuit Yeah. It shifts at 15mph like it did with the Rochester but I feel like it’s too soon. That’s why I was wondering if the RPM would be different with the Weber. Are the RPM and shifting point even correlated? I know this adjustment is critical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Discussion Starter · #160 ·
I’ve been messing with the kickdown cable but am not sure if it’s right. Should it be shifting at the same speed with both carbs?
 
141 - 160 of 175 Posts
Top