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Today I got bolts and taps to take care of the stripped crank. I was wondering tho - Is a size 12 or 14mm too big to tap the hole with? The bolt now (standard but forget what size) is just shy of 12mm but I'm gonna see if it'll work. 14 was the next size the hardware store had. My harmonic balancer had a lifetime warranty so I got a new one as well.

Tomorrow I'm gonna see how the bolts look in the hole and see if I need to change anything. Friday it's getting tapped so I'll keep you all posted!
Yowakawaka
Hey bro. Just be wary of hardware store bolts. Look at the numbers on the head. They reveal a lot about hardness. Not sure what the stock is, but they can shear off if not the proper hardness. Clutches are a good example. If you lost them and just got some from the hardware store, they usually lack the proper strength and can shear off and really damage your vehicle. I don't know that would or could happen with a harmonic balancer, but I thought I'd mention it to you anyways....
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
I finally got the harmonic balancer on today. Took so long because it wouldn’t just press on. I had to tap it on with a hammer and tighten up the bolt little by little. I used a torque wrench at 40ft lbs to make sure I didn’t mess up threads.

I didn’t end up rethreading the crank. I was talking with someone at work and he was telling me it’s a pain. Instead, I ended up cleaning the threads with the same side tap.

I started the truck without all the belts and it sounded really bad. I was tired of messing with it so I got everything back on (pulleys and belts). Started it up and it still made some noise but sounded better than it did before I took it apart. It does still make some noise tho. Especially in neutral.

I’m done for the weekend but I’m gonna have my coworker listen to it and see what he thinks. It’s probably not a bid deal but I’d like to figure out what it is.

@jimmykicker I ended up using a grade 8 bolt I think.

Well that’s it for now,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Justify pulling this even if you don't find the problem, and order you some color LEDs from ebay pretending you were putting new bulbs in anyway. It's a nice, cheap upgrade and so much easier to see the gauges at night. I have green and really like the color.
Hey @jimmykicker can you do me a solid and post a link to the LED lights your talking about so I get the right ones. I’m pulling the gauge next. Also, can I still drive the truck with the gauge out?

thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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1994 GMC Jimmy SLE 4.3 CPI 4x4
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You can drive your truck without the gauge if you’re confident in your cooling system, but it’s up to you to risk it..
These are the LEDs I used in my cluster,
6194-CWHP5-PC: Cool White
I got them here. 6 of them, but I have the ‘91-‘94 cluster, yours may have a different amount. I went with Cool White 6500K for brightness, you want fancy colors they have them too I guess.
 

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Hey man. They're just 194 bulbs size that are LED. All over ebay. About $6. Mine were green. Really like how they came out. Still brighter than the incandescent bulbs.

Truck will run and drive without gauges, but like guy above says, be wary that you...well...have no gauges. I had to do that with a Cavalier once. Gauges failed. All of them but the rpm gauge, and it wasn't accurate. So it was a moot point on that one. Told my wife to be very careful while they were out for repair. Used GPS for speed and had her keep the gas topped off. You could certainly put an aftermarket heat gauge there temporarily as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
Got the gauge cluster out. Wasn’t too hard but took some time and patients. That tiny bolt that holds on the Speedo cable clip was a weird size. I pulled out just about every socket I had to get one to fit. Dropped the steering colum a bit to get the cluster out without scratching anything. Pretty easy overall

I’ve had an after market temp gauge in since the OG one stopped working so overheating isn’t an issue. It’s the speed I’m more worried about.

So the gauges are out and here’s what I’ve noticed so far:
The beeping noise is on all the time. Engine running, off, doors closed with no key, always. However, It does turn off when I buckle the seat belt.
Now understand, this was never a thing the whole time I’ve had this truck. The only time the beeping noise came on was when the lights were on, engine was off, and the door was open (your lights are on dumba$$ noise). That’s it.
When the gauges stopped working, the beeping noise happened when I turned the headlights on and the gauge lights were bright. If I turned the gauge lights off/down, the beep went away.

Now so I’d don’t just pound your heads with info and fun problems, here’s some photos.


Motor vehicle Vehicle Hood Car Automotive exterior


167 or 161 Bulb
Automotive lighting Hood Purple Headlamp Automotive design


Cluster
Auto part Gas Audio equipment Electric blue Plant

Where cluster connects
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Tread Bumper



Automotive lighting Gesture Nail Gas Thumb


Speedo cable bolt and clip
Green Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Terrestrial plant

The photos are a little uneventful but hey...

So here some questions:
1) I don’t see many wires to check so I’m guessing I just need to check the every little prong in the pigtail that connects to the cluster has power. Does anyone have know what each does or have a diagram? Should I just probe them with a test light? What ones should light up and when? Kind of a loaded question but I think you guys get the big picture (how the he!! do I test this think).

2) @jimmykicker You mentioned I just need 194 bulbs. I have a bunch of 194 bulbs in the cluster but some aren’t (168 and 161/167s also). Is this a problem? Should I just use 194s on all of them? They won’t get to hot and melt something?

That’s all I have for now. Let me know about the bulbs and I’ll get them ordered. Also, any info is appreciated!!!! I’m out of my area of expertise here (I suck at cars too LOL).

Till then,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Here’s worrying diagrams I grabbed from @Deathpheonix99 signatures. I’m sure they’ll be a bit help.

Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering
Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Pattern
Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Engineering
Rectangle Font Schematic Slope Parallel

I’ll give these a close look and see what I can find.

Till later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Here’s worrying diagrams I grabbed from @Deathpheonix99 signatures. I’m sure they’ll be a bit help.



Till later,
Yowakawaka
Text to speech? Ha! Worrying diagrams. Sometimes they are!

Sure sounds like a grounding issue man. I bet you all those pins test good.

Interestingly, your cluster has only 10ks on it. So did my factory one, and odd as it seems, the early girls like 82=83 usually have the 100k odometers. I finally found one on eBay and put it in my truck. Then I remembered my uncle's 1982 s-10 had it too, and the needle bounces around like crazy over 70mph. So does this new speedometer. Does yours do that? I hate it. About to swap it back. And I'm guessing yours has the "boobie" glass for the gauges? 84 and 85 were flat. So mine is a hybrid. Old 100k odometer and no boobie glass. I can't do the boobie glass.

On the question of the bulbs. I looked up my ebay where I bought them. 192 for sure.

Oh and I might mention too that occasionally you will run into a standard fastener on these early trucks like ours. I think GM used whatever they had left laying around. Pretty sure that bolt on the gauges is SAE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
@jimmykicker Yesterday was a long day and longer night. It was late when I posted the last post and didn’t take the time to reread. Probably wouldn’t have caught it anyway.
It’s funny you mentioned the bounce in the Speedo gauge. My gas gauge bounces too. My friends are always like “what’s up with you busted a$$ whip”.
It would be nice to have the 100k. You mentioning that older models usually have 100k makes me wonder if my cluster is og.
I can’t believe you don’t like the boob glass. It’s classy!!! LOL!!! My 85 S15 Jimmy has the flat glass and it’s too flat. I think the pace is different to from flat to boobed.

I’m gonna order the LEDs right now. I was just thinking they might get to hot and melt the plastic.

As soon as I buckled my seatbelt, I figured it was a ground issue. I was also thinking the cluster was not pushed in enough to make complete contact with the pigtail. Should I just hit each with a test light? If it lights up then it’s good?

I’ll try some stuff and let you know how it goes,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 · (Edited)
Ended up going with these.
Product Font Liquid Automotive lighting Technology


I figure they WERE 20 bucks so they can’t be that bad. Some reviews said they fail in a few months. We’ll see.

Will the dimmer still work with these installed?
 

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Those early speedometers are weird. I'd forgotten about that bouncing thing until I installed it.

On the lights, my dimmer works just fine. Those LEDs run far cooler than the stock bulbs too. Like I said before, those two internal nuts? Throw those away. The bezel screws will hold it in place just fine and you don't have to disassemble it to get it out next time. It is possible though it may not have been pushed in far enough, but I find that unlikely. Look at the diagram like 8000 times. If your hots test ok, look and find where the cluster grounds are. Rig you up a wire to that ground location and connect it to a known ground elsewhere on the truck. Push it in and see if the gauges work then. My guess is that if they do and you follow that ground on the cluster and harness you will find your open. That's my guess since none of the electrical gauges are working. What helps me is to print those diagrams and then use highlighters to trace out the circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 · (Edited)
Morning everyone,

I got the cluster back in and the lights look good. Dim works and everything. Gotta say; what a difference. Unfortunately, I didn’t fix the gauges. With the cluster in, the “hey your lights are on” buzzer still goes off when the gauge cluster lights are on. Bitter sweet right!!!!! LOL

I was poking the pigtail with a test light and didn’t get any power anywhere (key on or off). All that happened is it completed a circuit and turned off the buzzer (the buzzer always stayed on if the seat belt was unbuckled). Here’s the prongs I poked on the pigtail and the buzzer turned off.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Finger Bumper Gas


Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Gas Automotive wheel system


Office equipment Finger Bumper Gas Machine

like I said, other than that nothing had power.

@jimmykicker I printed the wiring diagrams and will be doing some investigating. I’m pretty sure it’s not in the gauges. I think it’s a bad ground or relay or something. I’m trying to find a good starting point. The cluster was annoying because of the buzzer and the obvious no gauges.

I’m working on getting the new Webber on so I’m trying to gather parts but am not too sure about the fuel line. I was thinking I could just run a soft fuel line from the stock line, around the front of the carb, and it would connect to the passenger side of the Webber. It would have a fuel filter then regulator inline as well. Will that work???
My other option would be to buy a hard line and bend it to shoot up to the front passenger valve cover and soft line to the carb. Does anyone know the size of the stock fuel and nut/thread line so I can possibly do this? I’d hate to have the truck down again.

Too many questions for today. Here’s some photos:
been learning to weld at work (sheet metal). Trying to get 24 gauge right now. Here’s a little box I made with some patch pcs and test strips for my neighbor
White Black Road surface Rectangle Wood


Machine I cut everything with. Old School!
Wood Motor vehicle Rectangle Gas Machine


And this beauty!!! Soon to be ran for the first time!
Luggage and bags Bag Motor vehicle Wood Rectangle


Land vehicle Automotive lighting Speedometer Vehicle Motor vehicle


Later and thanks for the help. I’ll update on progress soon.

Yowakawaka
 

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Strange. You should be getting the hot signal there from those prongs even if you have a missing ground. . Look back from where those circuits start and find the common point(s). Sounds like a broken wire somewhere. I had a similar issue with my interior light. You’ll find it. In my case i found a wire that was split in two. Had gotten wet and over time had rotted in two. Just keep looking. When did they work and when did they not work? Lot of times that’ll tell you what happened.
 

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Color looks good by the way.
352806
352807
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Wow @jimmykicker 250k and still going! Man that extra digit would be sweet!!! I didn’t want any crazy colors so I got the white but they look a little blue. Looks good tho. I’m happy with it.

Is there a way to text a ground to make sure it’s working properly? The gauges were working (except the temp gauge) when I pulled the motor but didn’t work when I put it back in. I want to test all the ground wires in the engine compartment to make sure there good.

I got the wiring diagrams printed and will me reviewing them during the week.

I’m doing a bunch of research on getting the Weber on too. All I know that needs to be connected so far it’s the fuel line, return line, and distributor vacuum hose. Still need to find out where the return line on my truck is. I’m sure there’sa bunch of stuff I’m leaving out, LOL! My goal is to do the swap and not have her sitting for too long. We’ll see!

Later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Yeah man, all you need is a good body ground. Set your meter to ohm, and it should read 1 which indicates an "open" and not connected circuit. Take one lead and connect it to a known good ground. Door pin works for me. Take the other lead and connected it to the ground in question. If both of those are grounds and connected, your meter will then say 0.00 meaning there is continuity between them and that both items are in fact (in this case), grounded. Some meters even have a beep function so you don't have to look at it. Just listen. Does that make sense at all?

And that mileage is inaccurate. I don't really know exactly how many miles are on my truck anymore. But that truck's body has more for sure than 250k. Like 300k or more. Just not sure. Motor I put in 11 years ago now...wow. It has about 10k maybe on it. Maybe. I've literally owned this truck since 1997. 24 years...
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
@jimmykicker So Let’s say I want to test a ground that’s bolted to the motor. I could just set one prong in the ground I want to test and the other prong to another ground (let’s say the firewall). If the ohms read 0 then that ground bolted to the engine is working/good. If I get a 1 then the ground is bad. Is this what your saying?

That’s why I don’t like to mess with the cluster. I drove mine like 200 miles while it was out so it off. Plus, the Speedo is off by about 5mph so that doesn’t help. The DMV has my Jimmy at 400k because the previous owner. I guess it’s not that big of a deal! It’s all in good fun till you break something and don’t want to fix it! LOL
 

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@jimmykicker So Let’s say I want to test a ground that’s bolted to the motor. I could just set one prong in the ground I want to test and the other prong to another ground (let’s say the firewall). If the ohms read 0 then that ground bolted to the engine is working/good. If I get a 1 then the ground is bad. Is this what your saying?

That’s why I don’t like to mess with the cluster. I drove mine like 200 miles while it was out so it off. Plus, the Speedo is off by about 5mph so that doesn’t help. The DMV has my Jimmy at 400k because the previous owner. I guess it’s not that big of a deal! It’s all in good fun till you break something and don’t want to fix it! LOL
Yes. Basically look at the body ground as one big wire. When the negative is connected to the battery and connected to the frame, there is electrical connectivity between the frame and the body now. The battery and anywhere on that frame, or anything metal bolted to it, like the body is therefore electrically connected if that makes sense. Anything that is grounded will give you that reading. So for instance, say you put one lead on the battery, and the other one on a known ground and you get 0.00, there is a connection between those two. Metal is touching metal. Watch this video. Guy's voice is annoying, but he's on point.

 

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@jimmykicker i did the test and the ground were good. Do I need to disconnect the grounds first? I might have dint them wrong.
Sounds like you did right. Basically you and schematic are gonna have to get real acquainted. Take highlighters and trace out the circuits that are part of those gauges that aren't working and start testing those. It'll take a little time, but you should be able to figure it out. Since they worked before the engine install, my guess is that it's probably under the hood somewhere, but who knows? My truck had developed an issue where the lights didn't come on inside when the doors were open. Still worked with the switch till i killed that using it so much. Ripped all the carpet out, and lo and behold. A wire that had rusted in two under the carpet. A little stripping, a little solder and some shrink wrap, and we were working again!
 
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