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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Here’s the results for smog test 1, 2, and 3.

BFD76526-A528-4458-A632-5AC7F2934D16.jpeg


2nd
8B1EFD0C-4EB1-4AD7-A311-01FD45130E25.jpeg

3rd
FB8DE4B1-247C-4330-9BBA-ED8CEBCA4C28.jpeg


It failed today. I advanced the timing to 16* thinking the gasses would have enough time to burn. I also used a vacuum gauge to set the idle mixture screw. I’m not sure how to make it pass.

I drove The truck back home and started setting everything back and noticed I didn’t plug in the vacuum advance hose when messing with the timing last time. I set the timing back to 12*, plugged in the vacuum advance, and adjusted the idle mixture screw with the gauge. I noticed this time the idle was around 750-800. Im pretty sure I’m not doing this right.

I tried to set the mixture screw accord to the idle when it almost passed. It was around 600-650. When I try to set the the idle that low when adjusting the screw, it runs like crap.

What I did forget is to put the efe heater under the carb. I have a feeling that it might have passed the first tim if it was on. Tomorrow I’m gonna pull it off the Jimmy and get it on the truck.

My friend that wins the smog shop keeps telling me to take it to a shop to get tuned but I refuse, at least for now. If anyone has any idea on how to make it pass smog, let me know.

Till later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
So I've been doing some reading and found this.


Improper Ignition Timing - Engine ignition timing is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC). Example of an ignition timing failure would be in the case where an engine's ignition timing is required to be set at 10 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) and instead is set to 15 degrees BTDC. This fault will not only cause a smog check "functional failure", but will increase Hyrdocarbon (HC) emissions as well. California allows 3 degrees +/- off of the manufacturer's required setting. Note: Late model vehicle's may not have a distributor, and therefore no timing adjustment will be needed. On these engines timing is electronically controlled by the ECU (Engine Control Unit).

Lean Fuel Mixture - Any condition which will cause unmetered air to enter the intake manifold, and ultimately the combustion chambers, will cause high hydrocarbons (HC). This condition is called a lean miss-fire. Such faults as vacuum leaks and gasket leaks will cause lean fuel/air mixtures. Broken, disconnected or misrouted vacuum hoses will do the same. It is also important to note that many engine components rely on engine vacuum for proper operation. If any of these components are defective, externally or internally, they may cause large vacuum leaks as well. A good example of such a component is your vehicle's power brake booster.

This makes perfect sense why I failed even more when advancing the timing. What I need to do retard the timing. The lean mixture will cause it to miss. I've been doing the exact opposite of what I was supposed to do.

My Question Is - Do I adjust the air/fuel mixture screw with the vacuum advance hose disconnected?

Can't wait till tomorrow to see what happens,
Yowakawaka
 

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time to get cereal
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Does the service manual not cover these procedures?
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
@manbearpig Ive read through the service manual a bit and it doesn’t tell you how to pass smog. It shows you all the different components (EGR, efe, etc) but doesn’t tell you how to set any screws or anything. When rebuilding the carb on my Jimmy, I had to find a manual online for it and that manual told me where the factory settings where. The service manual only says “set to factory setting”.

I thought it would be more helpful when I was looking for one but it does still help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
I changed the thermostat and used high octane gas but she still failed smog. It actually got worse.

So now I’m gonna change the cat. I can just swap the pipes from the Jimmy to the truck but I’ll be in the same spot in 2 years. Plus, I’d rather not steal from Peter to give to Paul.

The whole exhaust is rusty as heaven so I might just replace the whole thing. My question is - what can I put in that will give me some power and still be smog legal? Any advice on what I should be looking at?

I’ll be parking her tomorrow and spreading her open. Hopefully ordering the parts too.

Thanks for secessions in advance,
Yowakawaka
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Glad I don't live in CA...my truck would fail like a mofo....
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Got a little work done on the old girl. I suspected a giant oil leak from the back of the intake so pulled the carb and tightened all the bolts down. This time used some lock tight. They were pretty loose so I’m sure this will help the leak and overall performance.

Finally pulled the trigger and got a new Cat today. One of the welders at my job is going to help me put it on. My plan is to create some sort of flange to put on the both pipes and on each side of the Cat so I can take it on and off when needed. I’m trying to think of a way to make a 2” hole or whatever six the pipe is so I can slide the flanges on. To keep it from leaking, I was thinking of using some high temp RTV. I was going to use some V Band Clamps but there way too expensive. I was also going to put on the one from my Jimmy but the sizes are different. Here’s a photo of the original one off the truck.

3288CB85-0CB2-4677-B970-8371D6A30F5D.jpeg
7ECFC0FF-ABB4-42C9-B0F4-806E26F78F8F.jpeg



I took off the shield and this is the actual cat.
5FB507D2-84BF-4EB7-AF39-C58848E2EDD9.jpeg
968607CD-CF29-4D30-9086-2C61CAB715DC.jpeg


Soo bad. Crazy to think it almost passed with this. Only missed by like 80-90 points.

Should be getting the cat Tuesday so I’ll let you guys know how it goes. If you have any suggestions on what to use for flanges let me know.

till later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Looks good. Hey that oil leak is often the distributor. That o ring on it gets brittle and shrinks and it'll leak. If the leak continues, pull the distributor and replace it. Tape up the gear when you slide it on toe prevent damage to the new one. THEN, get a .25 350 distributor gasket and put that under the distributor. That is extra insurance, and it works like charm.
 

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Kwaka - Since I lived in Cali for a while, I know how smog can be a total PIA.
As you may know, you need to buy a CARB rated cat. I went through this with my recent and past 2 projects.
The cat has a 2 chamber system, not the 49 state single chamber.

The factory Bogchester is a POS, and (unfortunately) to pass smog, you have to make it work.
The carb is factory set for idle mixture and there is a plug in front of the idle mixture screw to prevent changing the settings.

The EVE under the carb won't be necessary to pass smog. It only heats up when the engine is cold, once warm, it is not active.
First: Make 100% sure you have no vacuum leaks. Also make sure the distributor is connected to a PORTED vacuum source. I'm pretty sure that you have found the right port on the carb.
Set the timing with the vacuum disconnected.
Next, since it sounds like the idle mixture screw is accessible, start the truck and warm the engine,
Next, turn the idle mix screw in slowly until the engine stumbles. Back the screw out until the engine runs smoothly.

If you are close to a freeway, run the truck for 20 minutes on the road to heat up the cat and engine to hot freeway speed. Go to the smog shop as soon as you can after leaving the freeway.
You should be able to pass.

Oh - one more point... that old cat can be worth up to $1000!!!!!
DO NOT JUNK IT!!! It has the highest concentration of precious metals out of all of the cats. (if it still has the pellets in it)

Hope this helps...

Confucius say: SMOG good for air, bad for truck... :poop:
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Damn @Mad Max I already junked it!!!!! That sucks!!!!! Oh well. Bummer!

I got the new cat put in on Friday. It ran really good once it was on. No more noise coming from the pipes. Took it on a 500 mile camping trip. Got 16-17 mpg there and 17-18 back. That is with all the smog settings on it too (10* advance, EGR hooked up). Should be getting it smog checked today.

I replaced the distributor gasket and print when I rebuild the motor. I’m guessing it’s the paper distributor gasket that’s not sealing. I’ll replace it soon.

I think the flex plate is cracked again. I’m actually about 80% sure it is. I’ve heard it’s probably the torque converter thats bad. Is there a way to check it? What about the transmission?

Damn that sucks about that Cat.

On a positive note, here’s a view of our campsite.

50F1F668-77D8-4F5C-8F89-C653A2F412D4.jpeg


I’ll be adjusting everything back to go faster mode when It passes smog and will let you all know how it goes.

Till later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Got the distributor gasket changed today. I need to drive it to see if that fixed the leak but I feel like it’ll fix it. The old gasket was super flat and when I took the distributor out there was oil all around the gasket surface. Plugged the EGR and set timing to 12*. Runs with a little more pep. At least as much as a 2.8 can.

I was listening under the car and I’m pretty sure the flex plate is cracked. I know the transmission bushing isn’t in the best shape because I let it fall when removing the motor. Could that be the problem? I know the dowels were in the motor when I connected the transmission. The passenger side engine to transmission mount isn’t in ether. Maybe that’s the problem? I’m gonna order flex plate and mount and put them in but want to make sure I cover my bases so it doesn’t happen again. What else could it be?

I have some new breaks and will be cleaning it up soon. I’ll post some photos.

Yowakawaka
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Damn...I trashed my catalytic converter back in 2011. I'd rather not known that too! Haha! So don't feel bad.

Glad that distributor thing is fixed. That distributor is absolutely notorious for leaking there. That paper seal is worth it's weight in gold as extra protection.

Oddly my truck was making noise like a broken flexplate too. Then it stopped. Don't know how that's possible, but I will take it. Those plates are also notorious for cracking. Supposedly there are some aftermarket ones that are superior...but I'd be lying if I said I remember who sold them. I think if you look in the thread list you will see my post. It is recent. Someone mentioned that in that thread I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
@jimmykicker it only makes noise sometimes. Honestly, I’m not exactly sure what it is. I’m 100% sure it drives me crazy tho. Gotta tack things one problem at a time.

Can someone help me out with a wiring diagram for this truck? I want to get the gauges going. They worked good before the rebuild. It’s a 83 S10 2.8 V6 RWD Federal Emissions. I found one from autozone but don’t think it’s the right one.


Where do you get your diagrams?
 

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@jimmykicker it only makes noise sometimes. Honestly, I’m not exactly sure what it is. I’m 100% sure it drives me crazy tho. Gotta tack things one problem at a time.

Can someone help me out with a wiring diagram for this truck? I want to get the gauges going. They worked good before the rebuild. It’s a 83 S10 2.8 V6 RWD Federal Emissions. I found one from autozone but don’t think it’s the right one.


Where do you get your diagrams?
Look at a user on here called Deathpheonix99. I don’t think he’s active anymore, but look at his signature. There’s some links.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Also, is this the noise you’re talking about? Mine stopped doing it. I’m sure it will return.

 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
So now she’s a CA resident. Had to get her weighed. I think she was about 3600lbs. Took off the topper first. Check her out without it.

1EB492F6-F948-4878-93A1-129A44717168.jpeg

It drives like a whole different truck without the topper. The back feels lifted. I didn’t really like it. The sun gets in making it hot too. Put the topper back on already.

My AC belt was shaking/vibrating when it was on so I changed the AC pulley bearing and it didn’t fix the problem. I noticed the pulley has a wobble to it but the belt doesn’t shake unless the AC is on so I’d guess it’s the clutch. Not really sure tho. At least it still works. And good too.

I found the wire diagrams on Deathpheonix99 page but I’m gonna hold off on this post because an old problem arose.

As for the flex plate - it only makes the sound sometimes. It does sound like the video tho. I’m guessing it could be a loose rocker. I’m gonna give them a check when I take care of the old problem I mentioned.

Old Problem - So she still has the oil leak. Not from the distributor gasket tho! I about 99% sure it’s leaking from the back of the intake and a little from the back of the valve covers. Im gonna see if someone I know can confirm this tho.

I’m getting all the gaskets from rockauto but want to run the valve cover gasket by you guys. There’s rubber (old style) and cork with compression stop. What one should I get? Or any others?

020BC2E0-1961-4A3B-B329-8BC4FE2FA2C7.png

There’s also the Victor ones.
4CCA8D7F-3B77-4FB4-BCA1-0241703761E4.png


For intake gaskets, I’m going with Felpro
E5E2C664-9234-4840-B959-18D2B75C652B.png

Let me know if you guys shy away from anything in particular when it comes to these parts.

I’ll be getting back to wiring and stuff but need to get this leak done with already.

Thanks guys,
 
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