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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Great write up man. Enjoying the progress!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Thanks @jimmykicker its been a long learning process. Almost to the finish line

Quick backtrack - I put in the starter and added all three shims that go in the pack. I figure it’s better to have too much space between gears rather than not enough.

Im at my truck right now and can’t figure out TDC. Now I’m gonna jump around a bit so please bear with me.

What I’m doing is rotating the motor with my finger in #1 spark plug hole and feeling for air. When I can’t feel the air anymore, the mark on the harmonic balance isn’t on the zero mark on the tab.

So this is what I’m assuming: I need to rotate the motor tillI can no longer feel the air. Then move the closest mark on the balancer to the zero mark on the tab. Check to see if the piston in all the way up in the boar. That would be TDC!

Is this correct????

Im at my truck now so a speedy response would be awesome!

Thank you,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
So I went with my own advice on TDC.

During this week, I got the rest of the stuff set up. 6 qts of oil is in the engine and coolant is in the radiator. I forgot to put in an oil filter so a little dropped out but everything is still good.

Today, I just need to put in some tranny fluid, set up the plug wires, try to get some fuel to the carb, and let her sing. I’m probably forgetting something but I’ll cross that bridge later.

The thing I’m wondering about is how to get fuel to the carb. I’m gonna try turning the key a few times but if that doesn’t work then I’m guessing giving the fuel line a few sucks will get it going. No ****

I’ll keep you guys posted on how it goes.

Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
First fire was a fail.

Tried turning over the motor with no coil wire. Didn’t getting fuel or oil pressure. I turned over the motor a few times with 10 minute intervals between and still no fuel but got some oil pressure. I ended up filling the float bowl to get fuel.

When I actually tried to start it, wouldn’t start. I tried moving the distributor. The most I got was a backfire. I’m about 76% sure it’s a timing problem.

What the ****!
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I didn’t have any time to try to get it started again this weekend but have a quick question.

how do you have the rotor on the distributor point to the #1 spark plug post on the distributor cap if it can rotate and move around? I’m missing something here.

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Second try for fire was a fail.

I pulled the distributor, primed the oil system, dropped the distributor back in the same way it came out, filled the bowl with gas, and nothing.

I was reminiscing on last time and figured it was because I didn’t give it enough advance. Last time consisted of mostly retard and all I got was a backfire. This time was the same thing. Backfire. Nothing but backfire!

In addition to this time, the battery died. I took it to the parts store to get charged. Good thing I had two. The first one read bad so they wouldn’t charge it. I’ll be picking up the second one soon.

I think I’m gonna start from scratch next time. Any advice is appreciated.

Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
I got the motor started today. The distributor was 180* off. The harmonic balancer needs to be set to zero when the air first pushes out of the spark plug hole. I was setting it to zero when the air was done pushing out of the spark plug hole.

Now this is BAD news and sucks to tell. I got the motor started, set the timing to 10* advance. My brother was in the driver seat and said the oil pressure was at 25lbs. Once he told me that, I turned up the RPM to 2000. All this probably happened within 30-60 seconds. So I think, everything’s set, now we wait, so I set the timer. After I set the timer I jump in the driver seat to check the oil pressure. It was about 15lbs. I’m thinking “Noooooooo!!!!”. I jump out real quick and check the dipstick. It has just the tip covered in oil. Run back to the key, shut her down, and stop the timer. I’m thinking “Wow, this sucks. There’s not enough oil in it”. The timer stopped with 17:29 so at this pulling the motor had been running at least 2:30 minutes. Most of the was at 2000+ RPM.

So let’s travel back in time to a little time I call yesterday. I ended up taking out some oil because I put six courts in it. It wasn’t too much tho. The motor only needs 4.5 during an oil change. I took out half a quiet maybe.

Now back to the moment today after I shut her down. I’m thinking “l probably did some damage so let’s get some oil in her and see how it goes. I run down to the parts store and get some comp zinc additive for engine break in. Get back and put it in. I check the oil after letting it sit and it’s well over full. Note, the additive is only 16oz and a quarter is 32oz.

So I find out it has enough oil. I decide I’m gonna try again and see if it builds oil pressure. I give it a start and nothing. The engine isn’t sounding to healthy ether. Give it a little gas and still nothing so I shut it off.

So I’ve spent some time venting and thinking and at this point I’m thinking:
1) It has oil pressure. That’s why the oil dip stuck was so low when I checked it at 2000 RPM. An aftermarket gauge would fix the problem.
2) It’s not getting oil pressure. The oil pump shaft isn’t sitting right in the pump or distributor. I did have to press it down with a hood amount of pressure to get the distributor to sit all the way against the block.
3) It’s not getting oil pressure because there’s something wrong inside the motor. If I had to guess, I’d say bad oil pump or I missed a small oil plug that I was supposed to put in.

Well this sucked today. I feel like I’m being punished by the Chevy Gods because I found out the color of the block is actually a Ford color. I was gonna type some rated R stuff but figured I’d save you the dirty image.

We’ll see where it goes from here,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Got myself an aftermarket oil gauge yesterday. Got it set up and fired up the motor. Oil pressure was good so I continued with the break in process.

Everything went good. It got to 190* at ine point. Good thing I had a 180* tstat and I put a small hole in it. I guess that’s it for that. It’s all broken in and ready to move on to the next step.

I have a few things I need to put on and do before it’s ready to drive. Drain some oil, put on the engine to tranny mounts, mess with the oil pressure gauge to get it working, tuning, and things like that.

As far as tuning, I got the timing set to 12* advanced. Other than that, I’m not sure what to do to get the full potential of the motor. Any tips or a good video someone can suggest???

I’m gonna get back to work today and will let you guys know how it goes.

Happy Friday,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Today I swapped out the aftermarket oil pressure gauge wit the old sending unit. It worked for a sec but then stopped working. Is there a way to shell to see if it’s the sending unit or the wire?

I also topped off the coolant and got the heater working. Drained the oil to the correct amount. The power steering pump pulley was leaking so I loosened the belts to see if it’d slow it down.

When I started I checked to see what was working and what wasn’t. The gauge that shows if the alternator is charging isn’t working. I’m not sure how to test it. Also, the beep that goes off when you leave your lights on is always on. Other than that, radio, ac, dome light, and most everything else works like before.

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Anyone know how to test these and stop the beeping? I have a feeling there’s a ground that can fix all of them but I’m not sure where it is. I know there was for sure two that went to the head but didn’t see anymore.

Im missing a few bolts for the tranny to engine mounts that I’ll get tomorrow but otherwise it’s put together. Just have to fix the gauges, drive it, and see what else need to be messed with when I drive it

let me know if you have any advice,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I got myself my first multimeter and am testing some of the electricals.

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First the alternator. I’m getting a solid 14.2 at idle when checking the charging of the alternator to the battery. When I put a load on the battery (AC, radio, and lights) I get about 12.8volts. I’m pretty sure the charging system is good.

I checked the oil sending unit next. I probed the wire connector and according to a video I watched it should give about 8.5 volts with the key on. There should be no voltage with the key off. I got 8.5 with the key on but didn’t get 0 volts with it off. It’s drawing continuous voltage. I checked the oil pressure unit by touching the negative probe to the threads on the unit and the positive probe to where the wire connector goes. I got about 3.5 oms and the beep went off on the multimeter telling me it was good. I ended up changing it anyway and it still didn’t fix the the gauge.

Touched up a few other things before putting on the air box for the first time. Then finished it with that final touch......
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a Fresh Air Filter!!!!!

Took it for the first drive for a full up at Chevron. It sounds pretty nice! Taking it really slow for break in. Gonna wait 100-200 miles to swap out the break in oil. I’ll be using some zinc additive to the Valvoline oil too.

Check out how the grey primer changed color on the exhaust.
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The next think that needs attention is getting it to pass smog. My tags are gonna expire and it needs to be registered in California. I need to make sure the rings to be seated. Other than that, I’m gonna cross my finger and hope it passes.

After are the gauges. I’m pretty sure it’s a ground problem. I’m saying this because none of the gauges work anymore. The gas gauge worked at first but not anymore. The “Hey, turn your lights off” buzzer stays on when the gauge lights are on too. I’m just not sure where that ground is. If anyone has an idea, let me know!!!

Heres a look at her together.
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Till later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Make sure that ground that is above the emergency brake when the pedal is up is tight. On both sides of the dash. Actually ON the dash. Check your grounds on the motor too since you have all that apart. Pull up a schematic and see where the gauges ground and you'll find the culprit I am sure.

Glad to hear it is running!!

Funny story with my truck. Back in 97 when I first got it, I put a reconditioned Autozone motor in it. It ran poorly at first, and I could not figure out why. That's been so long ago I don't even remember. What I do remember is replacing the intake gaskets and somehow as a 26 year old guy managing to miss the stud on the back passenger side. Yes.. .Completely missed it! So it obviously didn't sit down right on the motor. I started it, and oil and antifreeze poured all over the shop floor and ultimately into the engine. When I finally figured it out, I redid what I screwed up. I drained the oil, buttoned it all back up and started it up and went to back it out...."what is that knocking noise??" OH NO! I got in such a hurry I forgot to put oil in it!! Jeez, I was batting 1000. Here is this new motor I spent a week putting in, and I have just destroyed it....I shut it off, and a couple friends were with me and were like..."oooh....". Well, I filled it with oil and started it. It was still knocking. I remember having my head against the fender and almost in tears....then the knocking turned to a light tap, and then stopped....One of my friends was like, it could blow up later, but the fact is that it lasted 13 years of hard pizza delivery miles. In fact, it never blew up. Freeze plugs rusted out, and since it was starting to knock from the mains on cold starts, I decided to swap to the 3.4 I have now.

So moral of the story? Put oil in your truck I suppose, but at 15lbs, you didn't really harm it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
That’s a good story @jimmykicker. I notice that I always messed something up when I was rushing. A guy at my work told me a story where he rebuilt a motorcycle motor. Him and his buddy spent all weekend doing it. He went to start it and was excited when it fired up. After about a minute he said he started to smell something burning and he realized there was no motor in it. He filled it up with oil and it wouldn’t even turn over at that point. Maybe the moral of the story is to slow down and take your time. I know it would have helped me. But yes......put oil in your engine!!! 🤣

I got under the driver part of the dash a bit today. I couldn’t find any ground wires. The ones that I suspected to be grounds looked like clips that mounted to some metal and they were plugged in.
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I’m gonna look for the wiring schematics and get back in there. I’ll check under the hood first tho. That’s be smart.

Got 75miles on her so I changed the oil. Filled her up with some Valvoline 10w-30 conventional and more zinc additive. After draining the oil and looking at it, I’m glad I decided to change it. It was all cloudy. Hopefully you can see the photo. I had to get a good angle to help see the cloudiness.
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I’m not sure if I should change this new oil around 500 miles or what. I guess I’ll just use my gut. Like I said, I’m glad I got that out.

My goal for now is to get the dash going and break in the rings for smog. I’d imagine the rings will be broken in enough at 500 miles. I’ll be switching to synthetic oil, probably a blend, at 2000-4000 miles.

I’ll keep updating,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Got about 275 miles on the motor now. The mpg on it was 13.8. I thought it would be better but I haven’t done any turning yet. It’s about the perfect time and I’ll share why in a bit.

I can’t get the dash lights to work. I poked around under the dash again and found one loose wire. I have a feeling it’s supposed to be loose tho. It goes towards the radio area.
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I also found the ground that’s by the parking break and it’s nice and tight.
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Other than that, everything seems fine under the dash. Thinking about it now, I should have tried to ground the loose wire to something and see what happened. I’ll have to get back in there.

I was thinking of all the grounds under the hood that I messed with when doing the motor. I thought there was one that went to the bell housing bolt but it’s actually just a clip for a wire holder. One is for the wire that goes to the oil pressure sensor and I’m not sure what the other is for.

I had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side where the exhaust manifold goes to the pipes. One of the bolts was super loose. I tightened it and I think I still hear it. I’m pretty sure I have one where the cat connects to the pipes too.

Today I took it to get a smog test. Passed everything except the HC PPM test. My buddy who owns the shop was telling me it means it has too much raw fuel. I’m guessing it’s a carb adjustment that’ll make it pass. I’m gonna pull a spark plug and check try to make adjustment to the carb tomorrow. I’ll be watching videos after this video hahaha.
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Check out what an EGR valve can do.
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My buddy said that liquid is fuel vapors turning into water or something like that. Had had just plugged it in and it started doing that. Crazy difference!

Check out these toys he got for his shop too. He’s turning his smog shop into a repair shop as well.
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He doesn’t know how to sue them yet. He’s looking for a master mechanic soon. He said if I learn how to use them I can try them out.

I’ll keep you guys posted on how tomorrow goes. If anyone has advice on my gauges or tuning let me know.

Later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Hey @joed what screw do I need to adjust to fix this raw fuel problem (see above post)? I know you know a lot about these carbs. Is it the one in the side that comes plugged from the factory or the one under the screen on top?

Thanks in advance,
Yowakawaka
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Hey @joed what screw do I need to adjust to fix this raw fuel problem (see above post)? I know you know a lot about these carbs. Is it the one in the side that comes plugged from the factory or the one under the screen on top?

Thanks in advance,
Yowakawaka
I'd love to talk to Joe. He hasn't been around that much. Looks like he's been active though in the last few months. He's the dude to talk to about it though for sure.

That ground you found is the one I was talking about. I believe there is a mirror of that on the passenger side.

Hey looking at schematic. Did you look at fuse 5? Should be a 20amp yellow. That controls your gauges. See if it is blown.

Oh, and if you want some hilarity, read that sticky about me converting to EFI and the days I spent trying to locate the problem why it wouldn't start....
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
So to start this off, I took her to get sniffed again today and she failed for the same problem, raw fuel.

From what I’ve been told and the very little reading I’ve done, this means the engine isn’t burning the gas that’s in the combustion chamber.

Here’s the results from the first test
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I figured it was getting too much gas so If I lean the carb out a bit then it would be ok and pass. That’s what I did today.

So before I went to get it tested again, I screwed in the lean mixture screw in till the motor was about to about to die then backed it off about 1 turn. Just enough so it didn’t die.

Here’s the results from today’s test (2nd test)
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As you can see it’s a little better but it still didn’t pass.

This is the worst part. I went home after and started to tune it back to what it was before and couldn’t get it. I put the timing light on it and got it to idle at the same 600-650 rpm that it was at before. When I went to take off a bit later, I noticed it ran pretty sluggish. I pulled over and started to adjust and couldn’t get it. Now I can tell it’s missing a cylinder sometimes. I’m not sure how to tune this carb or any carb. Any advice?

I was thinking in the way home and realized - If it’s not burning all the fuel then I can just give it a few degrees of timing any that would allow the extra fuel to burn! I think that might get it to pass! The timing needs to be at 12* but my buddy would overlook that. However, I can’t get the carb back to the correct air/fuel ratio.

Before adjusting the ratio, I pulled the #1 plug to read. I’m no expert but I think it looks good.
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The center white part has a somewhat brown/reddish color, there’s a black ring around the outside, and the strap has a little white on the tip. I think that’s good.

WHAT I ALSO NOTICED WHEN LOOKING AT THIS PHOTO WHILE WRITING THIS POST - (zoom in real close) there’s a crack on the plug right next to the strap. I’m not saying this is the fix all but it definitely need replacing.

@jimmykicker I’ll be getting back to the gauges right after the smog and I get the AC working correctly. AC is making noise, bad bearing I think.

I did check all the fuses and they all LOOKED fine but I didn’t actually test them with a multimeter. As for the diagram, I haven’t been able to find one online. There’s one in the 85 manual I have but it’s a lot to look at. I just haven’t had the time with all this other work I’ve been doing. As of tomorrow, I’m driving with expired Iowa tags. Need to get passed smog. Damn California laws! On the bright side, there’s a new law trying to get passed that all cars 82 or older don’t need to be tested anymore. To bad mines an 83. Hahaha

I still don’t know how to fully navigate the site to find your post @jimmykicker but I’ll try and give it a read. It’s always makes me feel better when seeing people’s mistakes. We’re all human.

Long story short - How do you adjust the air/fuel ratio screw to make it run at peak performance?!? Once that’s set, I’m gonna try giving It a few degrees of timing and get it tested again. @joed if you stumble on the forum, HollaAhChaBoi!

Till next time,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Happy weekend everyone,

I pulled out that spark plug and it was fine. What I thought to be a crack was actually where the strap is welded to the plug.

I can’t get the truck to run right. I was in the freeway and it was bogging out at like 50mph. I have to let off the gas for it to pick up speed slowly.

How can I tell if it’s running rich or lean? I read that if black smokes coming out of the exhaust then it’s too rich. I dint have that happening. Any advice!

here’s a photo of the number 1 and 3 spark plugs
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3
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Im gonna keep trying today.

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Quick Update

Finally got it running fairly decent. I watched a YouTube video on UTG channel and followed it. Picked up a vacuum gauge from harbor freight set the mixture off that.

I hooked up the gauge to the vacuum outlet on the manifold.
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Moved the screw all the way in. It took about 7 or 8 turns to get it seated. I was way off trying to adjust it myself. I tried 2 turns out at first but it wouldn’t stay running. Took it out 3 and she idled pretty bad. Then started to turn out quarter turn till I got the highest vacuum I could find and that would stay fairly steady.
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It ended up running at about 700 RPM in park.
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I’m not sure how RPMs play into this. I’d like to get it idling lower, 600-650 or so. I’m planning on trying to adjust the timing to 14-15* I’m hopes it’ll pass smog then I’ll play with it more.

Yowakawaka
 
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