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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I was looking at the one piece rear main seal. Do I use the black donut looking thing or just the actual orange oring. Also, what’s the little ring for?
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Does anyone know the torque value for the piston rod bolts? It’s not in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Does anyone have an easy way to explain how to set the valve lash? The manual say 1.5 turns but is confusing on how to set the engine when doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Here’s an update of the last two days.

Day 1:
I get the crank in and the rear main. I didn't put anything around the seal. The directions called for loctite 515.

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I torqued the bolts to 75foot lbs. the specks 62-83.
The

Then the pistons went in. I dried to get them in without a ring compressor and I quickly realized it wasn’t going to work. Ran to the Zone and rented one for 10 bucks. Nice compressor. Came with a hard case and everything. They ain’t getting it back.

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I forked the caps down to the lowest setting the torque wrench would go to, 40ftlbs. The specks are 34-44.

Then went in the cam.

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I coated it with the two packs of the cam lube. It wasn’t as tacky as I had guessed because a bunch of it ended up falling off. Once every was installed, there was only a thin coat that actually stayed on.

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I used the last little bit in the packs to put on the lobes from the holes on the oil Vally but this is what I ended up with. Is this what it’s supposed to look like/should it be ok?

Then went on the back shield. This is where I feel like I really needed to start making decisions. So, I didn’t use anything on the cork gasket. The torque wrench didn’t read values this low ether so I just tightened them by feel. I did use a little dab of red loctite.

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After the heads went on. Put the gaskets on, put the pins in, heads on top, bolts in, and torqued in the sequence. Pretty straight forward. I did use the thread sealant @Rhotpursuit suggested.

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I think I used a little too much tho. I noticed a little pushed out and got between the head gaskets. I’m hoping this doesn’t mess anything up (oil/coolant mix). I’ll take a photo of it later.

I put in the front of the engine next. Sorry no photos. The timing chain stuff got put in and loctited in. Torque wrench didn’t go lo enough to read this value. I used the paper gaskets that came with the kit here and didn’t put anything on them so I might end up going back in and using something else. Used the water pump gasket that came with the pump. It was a better quality than the one that came with the kit. Still, I didn’t use anything so I might go back in. What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Day two:

I ended up putting in the intake but realized I didn’t put in the oil Vally plug that I mentioned in an earlier post. Put some loctight on it and called it good. It was kind of a good thing because I got to see how much gasket maker to use in the China walls. One I put A LOT. The other wall I was a bit more conservative. The one I thought ended up looking better. It flattened out to more of a solid gasket. Almost like the one that comes with the kit. I wish I would have taken a photo of it. Used some gasket maker on the coolant holes and put the intake back on.

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Next was the valves. Put in the pushrods, greased the rockers and balls, and put everything on loosely. I kept everything organized so everything went back in it’s original spot with the exception on the pushrods. I put on the harmonic balancer (not all the way) to help find TDC. This is the original ring compared to the new one. Hope it works🤞

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The first thing I noticed was Ishould have set up the motor at TDC with the intake off. I ended up using this video on YouTube to find TDC.


It pretty much said to wait till the intake valve closes and your at TDC. Lined it up with the #1 cylinder and called it good. Which TDC set, I checked the manual and and it told me what intake and exhaust valve can be adjusted in that position. After I rotated the engine 180* and it out the engine in TDC for #4 piston. Then I checked the manual for the intake and exhaust valves that could be adjusted at that position.

To adjust the valves, I took out the slack in the pushrod. I did leave a tiny tiny bit tho. Then I tightened the bolt 360* and then an extra 45*. The manual called for a 360* and then a 180* but I felt toile it was too tight. What do you guys think? I’m considering tightening then that extra bit after it’s all broken in and I get a feel of how it runs

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Also, I used all the cam lube on the cam so I went out and got this for the lifters. I just used some on the bottom before install. I noticed it was more tacky so that was nice.

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Then I just put on the valve covers.

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Today I need to put in the oil pump pick up tube. I didn’t measure or Mark the position it was in on the original pump tho. My plan is to the pickup lower than normal so it contacts the pan when I put it in. Ill take off the pan and the pickup will be at its lowest point. Then I’ll just tap it down a bit lower and call the height good. Put a tack weld on it and install it.

Hopefully it’s a mellow day.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Tacked up the oil pump pickup and put in the oil pan.

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I was wondering if anyone knows what this gaskets for?

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I really hope it’s not for something inside the motor! Haha

Here’s the fresh motor reunited with her home for the first time in a while!

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I’m burnt But I’ll keep you all updated on the rest of the revamp.

Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I was doing some minor things on the motor today.

Drilled a small hole in the thermostat to make sure no air bubbles get caught.

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I was gonna put in the exhaust minefields but the studs I got were too short. The nuts will fit on the side studs but I don’t think they’ll tighten down enough to to feel good about. The ones in the center were way too short. Here’s a photo of the two different sizes.

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I ended up getting one stuck. I had to spin the nut all the way on and use vice grips and a ratchet to get it off.

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I was looking on rock auto and online for the right bolts but was unable to find any that look like the originals. Does anyone know where to get a set?

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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Hardware store. For the studs you can get them from the junkyard as long as the are longer than yo n need. You can always make them shorter. If you have a problem getting studs out, you can double nut them and back them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
@Rhotpursuit I stopped by an ace but they only had grade 8 in standard. There's another hardware store that I'll stop by tomorrow.

I was doing research on the rocker preload. I think 1.5 turns is way too much. I've read all around the site and have seen 1/2 to 1 turn. I know @jimmykicker has built these engines. Any advice on the preload?

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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@Rhotpursuit I stopped by an ace but they only had grade 8 in standard. There's another hardware store that I'll stop by tomorrow.

I was doing research on the rocker preload. I think 1.5 turns is way too much. I've read all around the site and have seen 1/2 to 1 turn. I know @jimmykicker has built these engines. Any advice on the preload?

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
I'd try a different store, or Fastenal. My local AC E has a huge selection of metric nuts bolts.
 

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@Rhotpursuit I stopped by an ace but they only had grade 8 in standard. There's another hardware store that I'll stop by tomorrow.

I was doing research on the rocker preload. I think 1.5 turns is way too much. I've read all around the site and have seen 1/2 to 1 turn. I know @jimmykicker has built these engines. Any advice on the preload?

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
It's all over the board on the valve lash. Everyone seems to have their own answer for that. As best I recall I did 3/4 turn last time I did one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
@jimmykicker Ive been taking care of some stuff the past few days. I took the valve covers back off and loosened the valves to between 1/2 and 3/4. Best of both worlds I guess.

Got the valve covers torqued on, put some thread sealant on the oil dip stick and got it in, put fresh 12.9 grade bolts and torqued on the exhaust.

Haven’t torqued one the oil pan because I’m still considering putting better gaskets on the front of the motor.

I opted in for some gasket maker on the thermostat housing because it was kinda pitted

Here’s some photos

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Not sure what bill til be doing more today,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Got a little more done today.

Putting the oil dipstick in the spot in the head with the bolt took like 30-40 minutes. The dipstick tube was right in the way of the spark plug so the boot wouldn’t go on. The exhaust gasket wouldn’t go on ether. I’m gonna have to get some dikes and cut it.

Got this thing in to.
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I put some thread sealer on it but got to thinking if it needed it. I know the temp sensor grounds itself out so your not supposed to put any. Is this thing the same way?

I ended up putting in new plugs on the side of the block (I think there for coolant) but with I hadn’t because the new ones are allen wrenches. Kind of a bummer but whatever.

I want to close up the bottom end but am not sure if the paper gaskets on the timing cover will hold up. Do you think I should change them out now? If so, with what? I just put them on, didn’t use anything with them.

Tomorrow I’m gonna put in the fuel and oil pump, hopefully. I’m pretty sure this bar goes in the fuel pump. And I think the shinny side goes in the motor.
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Also, am I supposed to prime them at all or is it cool to just put them on?

I’m getting things done here and there everyday with the little time I have. It’s taking somedays but it’s getting done.

I’ll keep you all posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Alright guys, I got some questions.

What should I use on the oil pump gasket, if anything? I put in the oil pump on finger tight for now.

What should I use on the fuel pump to make sure it seals? There’s an square o ring that I would like to replace but I could only find a circle o ring online. Anyone got a replacement part for this?

Will this harmonic balancer work??? I’d hate to put it on and have the motor be off balance. I’m posting photos at the bottom.

Do I need to change the fan if I put in a new water pump? I hear if you don’t change one without the other, the water pump will fail. Is this a myth???

I decided it’s best to change the timing cover gasket/use something to make sure it seals. The crank was rethreaded and I don’t want to mess with the bolt once it’s in. Is there a suggested gasket and should I just use red or black RTV on it? I need the water pump gasket too. I don’t think I should put on the new one that came with water pump.

Im gonna get a HB puller tomorrow and not make the same mistake I did last time. I’ll use it right this time! Pull the front apart and get it back together. I think it should just about be ready to drop in after that. I feel like I already put on too much.

Please try to take some time to answermy questions so I can get the work done and move on. I’d really appreciate it!!!

Yowakwaka

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I finally got to reducing the front of the motor. Cleaned everything and put a thin layer of oil resistant RTV between the gaskets.

I decided to go with a rubber oil pan gasket but was wondering exactly what one to get. There’s the solid rubber one piece then there’s the rubber two piece.
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If I get this one, do I just pop it in and call it good or do I need to use rtv anywhere? And what are those 4 pin things for?

Thanks guys,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Can someone tell me if this harmonic balancer will work? It’s part Pioneer DA1733 of rock auto. I’m pretty sure it’s not just by looking at it but can someone post a link to one that would work I’d really appreciate it.

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I’m not sure if this matters but this is the flex plate I got. It looks just like the old one.

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I’m trying to get this project done, minus tuning and small things, by Monday. Someone give me an answer!!!

Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Update: The gasket rockauto sent me didn’t fit. It had a “U” on both sides so it won’t fit the flat part of the oil on. I ended up putting on the old gasket.

Sprayed the engine bay with some degreaser and hosed it down. I covered the wires first with some old trash bags first to keep water out.
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It’s still greasy but is a lot better than before.

I got the motor mount bolt tightened with some brain power. Got it torqued after.
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Got the fuel pump on. I used the old seal and put some black oil resistant RTV on it. The gasket kit came with an print that fit but I wasn’t sure if it would seal right. Figured the original has been sealing for this long so I just used it.

I still don’t know what this is for. I’m guessing I don’t need it.
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I don’t think the harmonic balancer is going to work so I’m gonna go check another one out at a parts store.

I want to drop in the distributor but wanted to check with you guys on exactly how to do it. I set TDC on the number one cylinder when tightening the valves. Then I rotated the motor 180* on the harmonic balancer. I think this sets TDC on #4 cylinder. If this is correct, then do I just drop in the distributor with the rotor pointed at the #1 post on the cap?

Im just about ready to drop in the motor soon. I’m trying to take it slow so I don’t mess anything up and so the motor fires first try.

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Found a harmonic balancer that is a match to the OG one at Irish auto parts.

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Finally got the motor in the truck.

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I moved back the tranny. To do it I had to disconnect the back of the driveshaft, unbolt the center, and remove the transmission crossmember. Got tranny fluid all over the driveway but it happens.

When I went to drop in the motor, the motor kept getting caught on the torque converter. I removed the flex plate from the motor and it fit together.

Mated the tranny and motor and started to bolt them together. Luckily my bro was helping because it was a pain in the ashhhh!!! When I was mating them together I was like Feeeerrrrrrrkkkk! I forgot to put the flex plate back in

With the tranny crossmember not bolted up, a few bell housing bolts half way in, and the rear of the driveshaft on the floor, we called it a night.

I’m going to try to convince my bro to comeback tomorrow. We’ll see. I think we were arguing before we took a beer break. Then we calmed down and actually got a hood move on the project.

When we dropped in the motor (after trying twice), it was a refreshing feeling and we were hyped.

The motor is in and that’s cool!!!

I’ll keep you guys posted,
Yo
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
What’s up guys,

Just wanted to back step a little: Like I mentioned in an earlier post, I didn’t trust the bolt that went in the crank. I ended up getting a longer one to use as much of the threads as possible. I used a good amount of locktite and only torqued it to 25fp.

This weekend I got the flex plate on and mounted the transmission to the motor. Got the starter and pipes in too.

I started to get the ground wires on. I know there’s two that ground to the back of the driver head. I know the negative battery grounds to the front brackets and I think the starter grounds something. Am I missing any?

All I have to do now is put on the front brackets and connect all the wires. There’s a bolt that broke off in one of the brackets so that’s gotta get fixed first. Then drop in the radiator and she should be ready for the first fire🔥

I’ll be doing it slowly during the week. I’ll keep you guys posted.

Yowakawaka
 
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