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I usually spray little fluid film on parts that I know will sit around for a little bit. Then wipe down as I assemble. If you plan on painting and you do use fluid film, use a degreaser and brake cleaner before painting. Also, I recommend the 1 piece main seal parts stores offer instead of the 2 piece (i happen to have a screen shot on a thread on the first gen section), with part number from autozone. Intake with these engine, small blocks, etc I usually put a little rtv with my finger around the water jackets, then run the rtv on China walls. Sorry I'm blabbering its a habit. Timing cover make sure seals as coolant runs thru it, with sealant on bolt threads as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Little update for today - Decided to clean the flex plate a little and found this.
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So it’s broken and I’m pretty sure this was the knocking that I thought was the motor. I changed it before and it sounded like a tinging instead of a knocking. I’m not that bummed that I got this far and just figured this out. Just learning to double check. I should have cleaned it earlier and checked.

What is causing it to crack? I changed it about two years ago because it was cracked like now.

Other than that, I’ve been cleaning parts and getting things ready to put together. I’ll give an update soon.

Later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Boozebag
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Kawa... Good catch on the flex plate. It's not that unusual for a flex to crack like that.
My guess that your torque converter is the issue. It's a guess, so please take it as that.
You may want to replace the converter, and make sure it bolts in properly. Clean the threads carefully and use some lock tight on them.
Also... you need to use an early flex because the 88 and newer units are neutral balanced where earlier engines are externally balanced.

I would not worry too much about rust on the exterior of the block. The cylinder walls are more important.
Some engine oil on a rag and wipe them down will prevent any rust. Do the lifter bores too.

As I remember - the head bolts are not torque to stretch so you probably don't need to replace them. Same with the main bearing bolts and rod bolts.
I would spend $$ on a new camshaft/lifters, timing chain and oil pump.
An RV grind cam would be a good replacement and shouldn't mess with smog check. It will also offer better low end torque and HPs.

BTW, Jimmykicker has been around the block with these engines. He's got some serious time messing with them.
 

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Boozebag
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Cam:

Lifters:

Timing chain:

Oil pump:
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
@Mad Max I already got a just about everything. I ended up going with a stock cam.

@jimmykicker would the cam and lifters have any effect on the motor without any other upgrades (carb, intake, etc). My main goal with this engine is to not destroy the MPG because this is my daily.

I was doing some reading on compression ratios and how the effect engines. The head was resurfaced and the motor was bored .030 over. Now I’m probably wrong but I think the head job would increase compression because your pushing the air in the cylinder into a smaller space. I believe the engine bore would also increase compression because you have more space for air to collect. This would result in a more efficient motor increasing MPG while adding a mini horse or two. Am I correct?

today my goal is to clean the block to paint and get ready for assembly. I’m hoping to have everything ready and assembled by the end of the weekend. We’ll see!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So I got the block back from the machine shop to get the cam bearings lined up correctly. After I cleaned it and painted it.

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I used gas, wire brushes, and a whole lot of those blue paper towels. Cleaned the gasket surfaces with some scotch bright. Hit everything really good with some compressed air when it was all done.

Used VHT engine paint. It’s a Chevy red. I almost used a Ford green but just didn’t want to get striked down by the Chevy gods. I made sure the surfaces were super clean before taping and painting. It was around 66 out tho so I’m not sure if that’s gonna effect the paint. It did dry in some spots but not enough to peel off the tape, oil the block, and bag it for moisture protection. I’ll probably give it another clean before assembly.

I was wondering if the paint would be ok? I didn’t use a primer and it was cold when I sprayed it. I read somewhere to wipe it with gas or carb cleaner to get off the paint that didn’t stick and shoot it again. What do you think? Or should I just put a final coat and call it good?

Today I’ll fix on the paint a bit, clean it, and wrap it up. Also make sure the lifters move freely in the bores. Then I’ll move to cleaning the intake and crank and wrapping them for assembly.

Im hoping to get everything together this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Sprayed the last core on the block today and cleaned it for the last time before piling it and bagging it. It’s crazy how dirty it still was even after cleaning it.

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Cleaned and painted one of the heads too. Tomorrow I’ll spray a last coat and give it a last cleaning before piling it and bagging it.

Heres the engine parts I got. What’s not in the photos are the Clevite bearings.
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I was wondering if EDirect was made by Hasting? On eBay I see descriptions having both names in the title.


I’ll post more photos tomorrow and keep you all updated,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I’m almost done with the cleaning of all the parts before it gets assembled. The worst part is gonna be the intake. Then I’m gonna wipe down the pistons and cam with gas and ready.
Here’s some photos of a few parts so far.
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I just sprayed primer on the exhaust. I’m pretty sure it’s gonna burn off right away. It ain’t the best paint job but it’ll do.

Sorry for all the questions in advance!!!

@LilReb83 I found the screenshot of the rear main you talked about.
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My question is, how long will the one piece hold up compared to the two piece? I’d imagine the rear seal would be the first thing to go on a fresh rebuild. I’d rather be able to change it easily if I have to.

Also, I need something to put in the bolts that go into the water jackets. Can someone toss a link out for something I can pick up at a parts store please?

Last question - When pulling the motor I had to take the motor mounts off the engine because the motor wouldn’t slide forward to clear the torque converter. To get the mount off, I had to loosen three bolts on each side. It was a PIA. Before I decided to remove the mounts, I tried to remove the motor mount that is bolted to the frame. It was only two bolts on each side and easy to get to. When I loosened them, the bolts kept spinning. I’m guessing it’s because there’s a nut on the other side that’s in the frame. My question is - how do I go about tightening these bolts? I don’t want to have to deal with the three little bolts again!
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The black one on the left is what I had to take off to get the motor out. The one on the right is the one that I loosened and couldn’t get off. Now I need to know how to tighten it.
 

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The nuts are accessible through the control arm mount, but pretty much need the LCA out to do anything about it. On my 92 I tacked the nuts in place with my welder while I had the suspension out, but not sure if you're going that far in the project currently.
 

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As for the rear main seal, I felt better knowing I was putting a 1 piece in, with no separation of the 2 piece to worry about. With a 2 piece, I usually offset the pieces so it doesn't leak. Both have their ups and downs, but yea if the 1 piece was to ever leak (mine never did), you'd have to pull the motor back out. With 2 piece, its accessible without a motor tear down.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Can someone tell me the clearances for the rod and main bearings using plastigage? Also, the ring clearances when you measure the clearances in the cylinders? In using feeler gauges.
Any other advice/info is helpful.

Thanks in advance,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Here’s the one main bearing I tested with plastigage today.

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Assuming the 2.8 section in my 85 s15 Jimmy manual is compatible with this 83 2.8, this should be fine.
.002” = .0508mm. The speck for the mains are .041-.081mm. Nice and tight! 😉👌🏽

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I put in the main bearings on the caps and in the block. The first thing I noticed is the width of the bearings in the block on journal 1, 2, and part of 3. The bearings didn’t sit across the whole surface of the journal. Is that normal? Here’s some photos.

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Other than that, I just laid the crank in the motor to clear up some floor space. I’m waiting on the one piece rear main so while waiting I’ll be checking all the rings and assembling them on the pistons.

Till later,
Yowakawaka
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Does that one piece fit the old engine? Max could tell you, but I think there is a slight difference in the cranks or block on the 82-85? I do know that the two piece has a propensity to leak so if you can fit a 1 pc seal to it I would.

Work looks solid man. I'd also see if you can source an 86 front cover. 86 only. Get the later oil pan and you solve one of the major leaks on the front. 86 is the bastard child year. It has the new front design, and still has the correct water pump direction. I didn't have to do this with mine because I put serpentine accessories back on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
@jimmykicker I checked on rock auto and the one piece fits. At least it’s under the motor. BTW, if anyone needs that same part, it’s on sale on rock auto right now.
As for the front cover, I’ve been looking around but can’t find a good deal on one. I’m looking till the very end. I had a good deal on one about two years back. Didn’t end up needing it but I should have grabbed it.
Thanks for the comment! My uncles been riding me because I took so much time to clean everything and am not just putting it together. Pretty annoying but I am using his space so it makes sense

Today I measured all the mains. The only thing that looked kinda sketchy was journal 1.

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Its closer to .003 (.0762mm) but it should be fine. The rest are closer to .002.

Checked the gaps in all the rings to with some feelers.

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The only rings that I didn’t measure was the wavy rings. The gap there was really big.

I didn’t measure the ring groove ether because the rings fit in the piston with almost no clearance. I’m guessing the book specks or something is wrong here because no feeler gauge would fit. Am I missing something here?

Last thing. I removed the plug in the block before taking it to the machine shop. Do I need to use lock tight or something to put it back in and does it need to be torqued?

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I’ll probably assemble the pistons and rings soon and clean a bit more till the rear main gets here.

TGIF,
Yowakawaka
 

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This is all looking good so far nice job checking tolerances with plastigage most people just throw in standard size bearings and call it a day. Looking forward to see the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
What's up everyone,

I'm In the last stretch before assembly. Today I got the pistons cleaned and put the rings on. The last things I need to do is clean the cam (it's got some sticky stuff all on it), weld the pickup on the new oil pump, spray the intake, and do some small stuff I probably missed.

Can someone post a link to some sealant to put on the bolts that go into the coolant passages?

I was also wondering if I need to replace this little bar/shaft? I don't have a photo of it right now. It's about 3-4" long. It came out of something that was bolted to the side of the motor and I want to say it's driven off the cam.

Last question - Is a rubber oil pan gasket worth it?

The short block is getting put together when the rear main gets here on Thursday so any help before then would be great. I'll be posting more photos soon!

Thanks S10ers,
Yowakawaka
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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What's up everyone,

I'm In the last stretch before assembly. Today I got the pistons cleaned and put the rings on. The last things I need to do is clean the cam (it's got some sticky stuff all on it), weld the pickup on the new oil pump, spray the intake, and do some small stuff I probably missed.

Can someone post a link to some sealant to put on the bolts that go into the coolant passages?

I was also wondering if I need to replace this little bar/shaft? I don't have a photo of it right now. It's about 3-4" long. It came out of something that was bolted to the side of the motor and I want to say it's driven off the cam.

Last question - Is a rubber oil pan gasket worth it?

The short block is getting put together when the rear main gets here on Thursday so any help before then would be great. I'll be posting more photos soon!

Thanks S10ers,
Yowakawaka
The bar is probably for driving the fuel pump. You'll probably have to rotate the engine so that the bar sits on the flat side of the cam. A little grease will hold int up in the engine until you get the pump in place. As for sealer for the threads, I've used Perma-Tex liquid Teflon with great success.
 

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I don’t know what they’re for, but I’d leave them in there as is.
That’s the sealant, but you can get lesser amounts in a tube.
 
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