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project: one week bd

86350 Views 766 Replies 70 Participants Last post by  nfamus10
Ive had my trucked bagged for almost a year and ive already decided to body it. this will be my first bd. gonna traditional bd my truck thanksgiving week. running 18/20 combo and gonna keep factory ac with a 225/40r18 up front. will i need to invert the fan to inside the firewall and is there a good thread with pics on how to do it? i have a sheetmetal blowerbox now that clears when laying but i will need to make a new one. also running stock upper arms and my control arm hits the coil now when layed so im gonna also have to get uppers, probably gonna run mmw flat plate uppers. i hope to have the cab and frame horns done in that week not worried about the bed cause i can drive without it. computer will be moved behind the dash and everything else is staying under the hood, hopefully the battery too. now i need to start gathering parts so i can have it all so what all do i need? heres what im ordering first a smaller brake booster , trailor fender for firewall, and upper control arms. whats the best/easiest to mod brake booster? i wont be running abs also. if anyone has some good threads on bd with ac let me know lol ive been looking at all the good ones showing how and where to cut and all that

here she is bagged

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ill be watching this one cant wait for it to start. truck looks good too and looks like the bed is already done for the most part. your going to be working your a$$ off that week but it could be done with some help from friends and being well planned out. i thought my sfbd was going to be a 3 month process but its been 10 due to adding more stuff than i originaly planned. my advise is have everything you need and if you want to hit your timeline dont start the "might as well" bug, thats whats been getting me behind. good luck and cant wait to see how it goes!!!!
i like how you did your bed, having that storage space between the floors would be nice. might have to copy that idea a little!! good luck with build love the truck goin to look 10x better on rockers!!!
for hard line you can get it at most auto parts stores with the flairing already done on both ends with the fittings on. i got some at autozone for less then $10 each and just bent them to shape for my axle. but changed my mind and now im getting braided line from summit and fitting to convert to AN. if you got the extra cash thats the way to go but if not theres nothing wrong with hard line. lets see this floor cut and raised!!!!
ya i hate when i see the bottom side of a body dropped cab and the filler pieces are all jagged and unfinished looking. i welded both top and bottom side of my cab and bed lined the under side
for the connectors is usually just try and find a spot to tuck them and hide so i dont have to cut anything off the harness
what do you mean by that? your floor is sagging or the back wall? if you got it on 4x4s under the frame you should be fine
check out project insert cool name the lowered 4x4 crew cab he just put some headers on his 4.3 recently
ive read the ss are better. less swelling/ balooning and a softer ride. dont have them so i cant give a opinion
i saw it on tv one time. lol overhaulin a napa truck but they had like 30 people and worked 24/7 with the best tools available

best bet is take your time and do it right and dont cut any corners that you will regret later. my sfbd was supposed to be a 3 month build and its about to hit 1 year but i have done a lot of stuff i didnt plan on doing

that plug looks like it goes to the ac accumulator sp? but not 100% sure i can check when i get home though
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weld up the inside holes and seam seal the shit out of it so no leaks into the cab. but if you plan to shave your wipers id weld up the outside and call it a day. first body drop i did i shaved the cowl and ditched the wipers and it was my biggest mistake not having wipers. rain x works but for a truck build to be driven a lot wipers are a must just my .02
i welded mine up and inside and out then seam sealed the inside through the factory hole inside and still need to make a plate to bolt in to cover the big hole inside instead of welding up to prevent from melting of catching the seam sealer on fire. ill see if i have any pics that will help
only pics i could find

basicly on the last pic i welded a piece of 1.5" metal across the bottom then seam sealed the shit out of everything in there. now i just need to make a plate to cover the hole and bolt it in. i can use the top two factory nut sert and prolly just use self tappers for the bottom two. also goin to use some gasket sealer for when i bolt the plate down to seal it up. this seemed like the easiest way for me, hope it helps!
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i drilled a couple holes in the door jamb area where the factory one was so that water can drain just like factory. i didnt want to take any chances of water just sitting in it since its not a slop, and if you just weld a plate in where you drew water would sit in the little drop down area where the plate goes to a point
also the flat plate i welded in for the bottom has a 1-2* slope to it (going left to right) to keep the flow going down hill.
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