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I've been mulling this over myself for quite a while. I want a TPI setup on my 5.7. I've left everything that was stock with the v6 in place until I figure out how to go about incorporating the EVAP system. I didn't know that eliminating it could cause these problems so I know I'll be trying to find an answer also.
Start a new thread with the question. Should be quite simple for the 5.7 as it shares so much more with the 4.3 than the LSx engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Update! I spent some time cleaning up the stock wiring, and components. Pulled out, cleaned up and painted the ABS bracket, re wrapped all the stock wiring in the engine bay with Tesa tape, installed my CPW harness and mounted the two fan relays.

Heres the bottom of the fuse panel. I re wrapped things all the way to the firewall grommet.

Brake fluid level light wiring and one of the chassis harness plugs.

I also did the headlight wiring on the engine bay side. I left the original loom on the outside of the rad support since its more vulnerable.

Theres a harness that runs across the top of the firewall, for the blower motor, and has a big plug from the PCM. I rewrapped this, and used some P clips painted black, and the some push clips to tuck it up closer, out of the way. I drilled a hole for one more clip near the cruise control module, just to keep things neat.


This corner is looking alot nicer!

CPW Harness time! Me being who I am, I wrapped over the sections of regular electrical tape with Tesa tape. The braided loom and Tesa tape are a match made in heaven!


I was able to reuse the original relay bracket from the 94! Needed a little modification to fit the CPW fan relays, but the mounting holes in this bracket match up with the holes already in the firewall, bonus.


Thats all for wiring at the moment. I found a belt to work though! Second try.

First full engine bay picture with the front end all back together! For the eagle eyed among you, or those who followed the 94 from the beginning, youll recognize that rad mount plate at the front. I bent it up out of a piece of stainless when I swapped to efans about 4 years ago. Since I left the rad in the stock spot, looks like Ill be able to reuse this after sitting around for a long time. I think im going to paint it wrinkle black, let me know your thoughts.
 

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Super clean. I just purchased a few rolls of woven split loom to spruce my engine bay up. I think the wrinkle finish will look perfect on the shroud. Great work as usual sir.
 

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Update! I spent some time cleaning up the stock wiring, and components. Pulled out, cleaned up and painted the ABS bracket, re wrapped all the stock wiring in the engine bay with Tesa tape, installed my CPW harness and mounted the two fan relays.

Heres the bottom of the fuse panel. I re wrapped things all the way to the firewall grommet.

Brake fluid level light wiring and one of the chassis harness plugs.

I also did the headlight wiring on the engine bay side. I left the original loom on the outside of the rad support since its more vulnerable.

Theres a harness that runs across the top of the firewall, for the blower motor, and has a big plug from the PCM. I rewrapped this, and used some P clips painted black, and the some push clips to tuck it up closer, out of the way. I drilled a hole for one more clip near the cruise control module, just to keep things neat.


This corner is looking alot nicer!

CPW Harness time! Me being who I am, I wrapped over the sections of regular electrical tape with Tesa tape. The braided loom and Tesa tape are a match made in heaven!


I was able to reuse the original relay bracket from the 94! Needed a little modification to fit the CPW fan relays, but the mounting holes in this bracket match up with the holes already in the firewall, bonus.


Thats all for wiring at the moment. I found a belt to work though! Second try.

First full engine bay picture with the front end all back together! For the eagle eyed among you, or those who followed the 94 from the beginning, youll recognize that rad mount plate at the front. I bent it up out of a piece of stainless when I swapped to efans about 4 years ago. Since I left the rad in the stock spot, looks like Ill be able to reuse this after sitting around for a long time. I think im going to paint it wrinkle black, let me know your thoughts.
My feelings are, paint stainless steel, WHY?
 
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The shine isn't for everyone. Mine was mirror finish stainless when I bent it up and then I took the scotchbrite to it to give it the brushed look. Maybe give that a shot? I like wrinkle paint but it never seems to last too long. Maybe consider wrinkle powder coat if you're gonna go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I dont want the fan shroud to be the focal point. When you open the hood it says "Hi im a bright shiny plate, forget about the badass 5.3 there and look at me"

I was actually considering painting it with the same stuff I used on the frame. Ive painted some little brackets ive made up with it and I really like the texture it has. Very OE like, and its a frame coating so itll be plenty strong.
 

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Old Fart
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Wrinkle paint = dirt collector. If you paint it use smooth paint at least to make it easier to clean.
 

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You know that Tesa tape you're using is meant for interior use, right? That stuff will hold water if it gets wet. They make an Exterior tape for engine/exterior harnesses that is much better for the application. The interior stuff is soft to help with NVH.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Isn't air conditioning dead weight in Canada?
I would love to think so! But my ball sweat in the summer time says otherwise.

You know that Tesa tape you're using is meant for interior use, right? That stuff will hold water if it gets wet. They make an Exterior tape for engine/exterior harnesses that is much better for the application. The interior stuff is soft to help with NVH.
I’m aware! I accidentally dropped a roll in a bucket of water, and it soaked it up like a sponge. Everything I covered is decently protected from water IMO.

The lines underneath the truck that I covered wasn’t a good idea looking back, but that was right after I bought some so I was excited and putting it on everything.
 

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And I thought they called it "THE GREAT WHITE NORTH" eh? 🤣
 

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Lol I’m no where near the great white north! I’m basically at the farthest south in Canada.
That may be but we Americans consider all of Canada the great white north. 🤣 🤣 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter #96
At this point I was in the little fiddly stuff stage. So this will be a hodge podge post of little things in no particular order.

Whats nice about these trucks is that converting to a manual transmission is so easy. Theres a dimple in the firewall to indicate where to drill the hole for the clutch master cylinder. You need to use a 2" hole saw for the hole. The master uses a square hole, you install it crooked and turn it to lock it in place. That square hole is already there on the second layer of fire wall. So be really careful cutting that 2" hole, you dont want to go through both layers.

Jumping over to the electric fans. These are the same Intrepid fans ive been using for years. I had the fans set up this way years ago when I installed them in my 94 before the v8. Pretty cool I can do it the same way, just better! Used nut serts into the aluminum rad, for easy removal if necessary. Those red rubber caps are from those cheap spring clamps you buy from home depot or something. Ive yet to find black ones. You might also notice that one of the fan motor supports has been cut out, keep reading to find out why!



In order to make this upper hose work, I had to cut the fan shroud up a bit. Seem solid enough still.

Next job, battery cables! I was able to reuse some of the battery cables from the 94. Bonus. On the blazer though, theres a big main fuse under the battery tray, so there was a few cables I had to make.

Due to obvious room constraints with the AC compressor, I decided to run the cables through the battery tray.

Heres the main power from the fuse under the battery, to the fuse panel on the drivers fender. Also there is the alternator charge wire. Used a combination of P clips and zip ties to hold it down in the stock run for that main fuse panel wire. Neat and tidy!

Amazon terminal crimper ftw!

Rear of the alternator, this cable runs under the fuse box and follows the main fuse box cable.


New GM battery cozy ftw!

I wanted to reuse the shorty headers from the 94 but they didnt end up fitting the blazer. The problem is, in a blazer the engine sits higher in the chassis. This caused the 3 bolt flanges to hit the firewall before they lined up with the head. No big deal, I was very very close to purchasing Holley's exhaust manifolds so thats exactly what I did. Sold the shorties to recoup some of the cost. The fit and finish is fantastic. I highly recommend.


 

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Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
Heres a look at the exhaust I put together on the Blazer. Out of the manifolds its all 2.5" piping, summit X pipe kit, and some 4" round magnaflow "magnapacks"

Disclaimer: Im aware of the X not being in the traditional orientation. I did this for packaging, and fitment of this kit in the chassis. It would just fit where I wanted in this orientation, Ive been ensured by a few exhaust guys that It should still flow pretty good, since its very open inside. If theres any power loss to be had with this, I surely will never feel it. Its a street truck after all! Anyways, on to the pictures

X pipe fitted and welded up. It was easier to fit it into the truck with it all welded together.

In order to put this in, I had to jack up the trans. With it in there, I spent WAY too much time moving it around and centering it in the frame. Its dead balls even in the frame. Any performance benefit to that? Nope. But it satisfies my OCD.

Bought some 4.5" 1/4 wall pipe. Much too heavy for what were doing, but metal supermarket didnt have anything lighter in stock. Oh well, lets overdo it! Gotta turn this:

into this:

Little bit of welding, lotta bit of grinding, and some paint and we have one modified crossmember. I love having radiant heat in my garage, helps dry things quickly!



Had to do the same thing on the second crossmember. Unfortunately this one is welded into the chassis so it was noooot fun to do but we got it done.


got the x section back in, to make up some hangers. Bolted these on for easy removal if needed.

With those made, I could get the mufflers welded on before I made hangers for the rear. At the same time I welded on some v-bands on the front. Ive always wanted to use these! Makes things come apart easier.


Plenty of room under the driveshaft for the X.

Final photos! Too bad I forgot to take some with the down pipes installed. mufflers ready for some more vbands and tailpipes

Vbands look so cool

Down pipes from the manifolds. These got some O2 sensor bungs, and I threw them back in for good. Holley gives you those flanges with the manifolds. Theyre super thick, very nice flanges and a 2.5 tube fits perfectly inside the flange. Really happy with these guys.

I love the sound! It has a bark on start up, and has an aggressive tone when banging through the gears. Its exactly the opposite of the s10. The s10 was waaaay too quiet. Im very happy with the exhaust note! Once I get a good video clip, I will post it up.
 

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Very nice build! I love how you did the exhaust with the cross members and i really want to copy that for mine. How do you plan to run your tailpipes? I was afraid of running exhaust too close to the brake line on the drivers side. So im currently running a single 3in tailpipe in the factory location, but i would love to run true duals.
 
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