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Discussion Starter #62
Nice truck man. I just finished a 4.8 swap in my S10 and was surprised how smooth everything went.
Thanks man! These trucks are really easy. Especially with all the fantastic support they have these days. You can do this entirely bolt in, without cutting anything.
 

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I ended up clearancing the lower crossmember a little just to make it easier to put the motor and trans in together but everything else was cake. Used the truck accessories, only had to put a smaller ps pulley on it (doorman 300-201) I used a 99 nv3500 S10 5 speed, stock s10 5 speed crossmember, my stock 2.2l 5 speed driveshaft fit perfect. Also I did the 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering shaft and I’m glad I did because that was the part that had the least clearance out of everything.

Your blazer really makes me wanna find a 2dr clean blazer for a project but I also want a 1st gen rcsb right now to throw a turbo ls into just for something fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Here goes the tear down! I started this on Feb 1st, to give you guys a little look at the timeline here. For starters, here is the calm before the "watch me tear apart a perfectly running and driving vehicle" storm.

Ive had the front of my s10 apart a hundred times, so I made short work of this part. But what I wasnt used to was the fact that all the original fasteners were intact, and not stuck solid! Southern vehicles FTW

Here was my after thought "direct visual before and after" photo.

Before we go futher, got a few more parts on the engine for mock up! Hollley ac compressor, and ICT billet adapter for the throttle body, so I can use the old 3 bolt TB.


Rad support, inner fenders out. Look at this rad support, its still black! Amazing.


Extracting the 4.3 and 4L60e.


On the floor, listed for sale before I continued work. Please ignore the s10, If you cry, Ill cry.

Whats cool about the AC system in these trucks is that it can be taken out as an assembly. Here It is sitting on the floor, fully charged. I remember seeing @joedoh do this on his projects.

I started this at about 9am, got to this point with the front frame wire wheel'd and hit with Duplicolor truck bed coating, like I did in the wheel wells, at about 6:30 pm.


More updates to come!
 

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Since you used the nbss intake manifold you could just run an aftermarket 90mm throttle body to match the intake inlet instead of the smaller 3 bolt throttle body. I currently have a 92mm on mine with no complaints and it was $48 shipped with a new tps and iacv
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Lookin good dude. I miss old @joedoh
Thanks Mo! Is he still around? I haven’t seen any posts in a while.

Since you used the nbss intake manifold you could just run an aftermarket 90mm throttle body to match the intake inlet instead of the smaller 3 bolt throttle body. I currently have a 92mm on mine with no complaints and it was $48 shipped with a new tps and iacv
Yep! I was looking at a Holley one. Just using this one for now as a $$ saver.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Two big updates in a row? Alright lets go.

This was actually the next day. I couldnt help but push for the first test fit! Whats awesome is that, I never had to take it back out. Everything fit great, no bashing, no cutting. How many times can you say your engine swap fit on the first try? I was amazed.

Engine mounts are Poly CPW mounts. Oil pan is the Holley 302-1, and I have an Energy Suspension Poly trans mount, which bolts right up to the AR5.

Got the 5.3 off the stand, onto the crane and ready for the trans to bolt up for the first time. Which also entailed torquing the Fabbot Fab adapter plate, 4L60e bellhousing and Colorado slave cylinder. Fabbot also includes this pilot bearing as well.

LUK 04-905 LS7 clutch kit getting torqued down.

Bolted together for the first time, for hopefully the last time.

Sitting in place! Great fitment around the oil pan, booster and the Holley AC box half.


All the accessories bolted back up, obviously.

In order to fit the trans up to the crossmember, I had to get the shifter hole cut out. So that was next up on the to do list. The shifter ends up right at the back of a factory 98+ NV3500 hole. Here is my terrible initial cut of the hole. It was cleaned up, and squared off. This allowed me to get the trans up high enough to get the mount on top of the crossmember.

Now, I have this engine set all the way back on my mounts to allow the most clearance on the accessories. Because of this I had to elongate the hole on the stock crossmember to get the mount to bolt up. Only moved back about a half inch or so. Thats the original crossmember, still shiny black!

There we go! Stock s10 foam seal in place as well. The stock driveshaft is a bit tight, but Im going to run it as is for now, due to how low it is, the driveshaft will start to pull out as the suspension compresses so I think we will be fine. Not like there is a huge amount of suspension travel anyways.

Now for what im sure youre wondering. Can I use a stock 5 speed center console with that AR5? Answer is, you bet! the boot is made up of that rubber s10 boot cut up, with an colorado boot glued to it!

While I was in there, I decided to pop my clutch pedal up into the stock bracket. Super easy to Install, but in order to take it back out, you have to pull the dash out. Also, cut the brake pedal down to fit a manual pedal pad. Stoked that the blazer now has 3 pedals, like its supposed to!


Thats all for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Here's a look at the fuel system for the Blazer. Im running an NNBS intake, which has a returnless style fuel rail, where as the Blazer is originally a return style fuel system. Using a corvette fuel filter, this is what lets the two styles work together. This filter doubles as a regulator, which is what makes this possible. This is how I went about putting it all together using OEM style quick connect fittings, and the OG fuel lines.

I used a Wix 33737 filter. Readily available

This is the OG feed line from the 4.3. I cut the end where there was a flare nut style connection, and reflared a quick connect end onto the steel. I should have put this on the back of the engine before I put it in, but I was still able to wiggle it down behind the engine into place. I held this to the back of the head with a P clip.

I used these quick connect fittings, and pressed them onto some OE spec nylon fuel hose. I have the proper tools for this at work which is handy. I also wrapped it up with some Tesa tape which is my new favourite thing, but more on that later.

Made up this bracket with a P clip to hold the fuel line to an existing hole in the top of the trans.



The OG line goes to nylon here and its long enough to get to the filter without modding on this end. Already has a quick connect fitting on it!

Drilled a new hole in the frame, added a nutsert and bolted the new filter into place.



Made up these little adapter lines, and cut the OG lines and flared them to suit. I have a hydraulic flare tool, which makes short work of these.



Flared a small piece of fuel line to adapter the filter to the OG fuel line. and were all done! This truck will not have a functional EVAP system, so I cut the fitting off the end of the OG vapour line, filled the end with silicone to seal it up and clipped it onto the vapour line. No reason to pull it out.



Im also using the 4.3 fuel pump for now. It's adequate for the stock 5.3 but it will need to be upgraded next winter when we start shooting for more power.
 

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I just picked up one of those hydraulic flare tools... cost me a few, but wow does it make so many different flares well. Definitely making use of those push to connect flares over here too. Yours is looking real good.

My one big regret from my 5.3 Blazer swap is ditching the EVAP. She definitely puts out a heavy dose of fuel vapor and since I don't have A/C it sucks even more driving with the windows down. Gas cap farts huge every time I fill up the tank.

I've collected all the parts except for the hard vapor line, so far to put it back on, but haven't gotten to the point of pulling a body at the junkyard and pulling the Blazer body to reinstall it. You've got all the tools to make a clean install of the EVAP system, now. Why ditch it?
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I just picked up one of those hydraulic flare tools... cost me a few, but wow does it make so many different flares well. Definitely making use of those push to connect flares over here too. Yours is looking real good.

My one big regret from my 5.3 Blazer swap is ditching the EVAP. She definitely puts out a heavy dose of fuel vapor and since I don't have A/C it sucks even more driving with the windows down. Gas cap farts huge every time I fill up the tank.

I've collected all the parts except for the hard vapor line, so far to put it back on, but haven't gotten to the point of pulling a body at the junkyard and pulling the Blazer body to reinstall it. You've got all the tools to make a clean install of the EVAP system, now. Why ditch it?
They’re great! Real game changer thats for sure. Thanks man!

I’ll be keep the charcoal canister, and vent solenoid so when the computer sees a tank pressure, it will still vent through the charcoal canister, just won’t get pulled through up to the engine. I don’t have the wiring for the purge in my harness, and I don’t want the extra line in the engine bay. It’s really no bother to me. But I know what you mean, I had nothing but a breather filter on the 94 and sometimes the vapour smell would bother me.
 

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My tank is vented to atmosphere through a small orifice I drilled into a bolt, to act as a block off for the vapor line. Its small enough that I don't smell anything, but large enough to prevent the fuel tank from building pressure or maintaining negative pressure as I consume fuel.
 

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I'm only vented at the cap and it's super brutal. Maybe because I have no charcoal canister, but not really sure as that doesn't act as a great filter if it's open to atmosphere.
 

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Great thread. Excellent attention to detail.
 

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I've been mulling this over myself for quite a while. I want a TPI setup on my 5.7. I've left everything that was stock with the v6 in place until I figure out how to go about incorporating the EVAP system. I didn't know that eliminating it could cause these problems so I know I'll be trying to find an answer also.
 
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