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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 Sonoma sls extended cab. 2.2 with 5 speed. Was bone stock and had 85k miles when I bought it from a shop with blown headgasket. Price I paid was for it fixed. 1 year and 2 headgaskets later and it still has a cylinder 1 misfire. Dealer says 0 compression on #1 cylinder and single digit compression on #3. Still got mid 20's mpg with my Harley in the back on my move from Arizona to Pennsylvania. Got fed up trying to fix this engine so I bought another 2.2 to replace it.

Originally i was going to do an ls3/6 speed swap from an SS Camaro. I wanted the truck to sit low but I'm not bagging it. I just wanted a super fast yet street friendly Sonoma. Now I'm doing a built 2.2 turbo and going to crank the boost to achieve my goals. I'm shooting for 400-500whp or 11 seconds in the 1/4. Just depends on what the wallet allows. To help achieve that second part I plan to put the truck on a serious diet yet still retain all safety features in the cab. No roll cages, I'm keeping airbags and steel doors. I am going to replace front clip with a fiberglass piece and the bed sides will be replaced with fiberglass as well. If I ever go full drag race with the truck I may go fiberglass cab and doors but it's no longer street driven then.

Since I'm not home much and the safety directors friend owns a junkyard I decided to get another 2.2 to drop in for now. $350 for the 2.2 with all accessories and they pulled it and brought it to my house. Engine ran when pulled and had 99k on it.


Needs cleaning and a new valve cover gasket.

Since buying the truck I had the headgasket done again and 4 new tires put on. Then the radiator started leaking.

Got that replaced and then the slave cylinder went out on the clutch. Its internal so the transmission had to come out. I wasn't home when it happened so I had my son put it in the shop. 1500 later I had all new clutch components. New slave cylinder, pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing and clutch master cylinder. I didnt want any surprises for another 50 or 100 thousand miles.

After that was sorted I had the windows tinted and my son installed an old system I had laying around. I had a set of 10" kicker comp VR's and my son had a set of components with crossover and tweeters along with a 300 watt kicker amp. I then replaced the 300 watt amp with a 1200.1 kicker amp. Just last week I installed a set of 4x10 Memphis speakers in the extended cab and bought a 4x70 watt amp to drive all the components and 4x10s. System sounds completely balanced now.

Last week we also painted and installed a steel roll pan to replace the bent factory bumper. I had a 4/6 drop and bell tech shocks for all 4 corners. We installed shocks and all 4 springs. We didnt install the rest because c-notch wasn't in yet. I may replace front arms with UMI upper and lower tubular arms. Ball joints are showing age and I dont want to replace ball joints twice if I go with those tubular arms. Saves 8 pounds I believe.

My steering is worn out and pump is leaking. I'm considering a manual rack and pinion swap at the same time. That saves 35 pounds from the front and replaces the rag joints with a cv joint.

I'm bouncing around between the outside and engine at the same time. Engine is good for now but the outside of the truck looks a little plain so I'm dressing it up a bit. Shaving tailgate handle and installing a billet grill when I get home. Pulling the bed to install c-notch and paint frame with por15 to prevent rust. While bed is off I'm taking measurements to fab a carrier bearing crossover that moves bearing up 1 inch. Gives me a little more ground clearance when I finish lowering it.

After lowering but before the roll pan:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This build will take a long time since I have work on my Harley I want to do and a trip to Italy in October. That's why I'm doing the small stuff now. Using my bonuses to build the Sonoma.

Immediate to do list includes rest of 4/6 drop including carrier bearing crossover bar, tubular a arms, rack and pinion swap, 18x8 front rims with 235/35 tires and 18x9.5 with 285/35 tires, tailgate handle relocate and smooth tailgate, billet front grill. Replace mirrors with smaller ones painted to match truck. Then I'm going to dive into the other 2.2 and disassemble it and send to machine shop to have everything cleaned and inspected. Head will be replaced with patriot head with 2mm oversize valves, springs rated to 7500 rpm and titanium retainers. Suppose to flow 220 cfm when they are done. Since I'm trying to get as much power as possible from the 2.2 I may opt for the stroker kit from ccw. I hope to have the engine completed by Christmas and then install it along with the turbo kit and MegaSquirt3 over the new year. I'm taking December and January off if possible to do this.
 

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Boozebag
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I suggest doing a search for 2.2 turbo on the forum.
There is (or was) a forum member who did a super custom turbo build (and I mean immaculate) on his 2nd gen 2.2. I followed the build and all of his posts.
The sad part: He never could get it dialed in. And he tried very hard - to say the least.
It would not run correctly no matter what he did (to expected performance).


If you are really familiar with turbos, set up and MOST IMPORTANTLY - tuning, then you may have good success.


I hang at a tuner shop (when I'm back in Baton Rouge) and have watched many many many guys set up turbos on Hondas with readily available kits (or most of a kit)
and they still have tons of work getting them to run correctly.


Not trying to piss on your parade, but it's not just "Oh, I think I'll bolt on a turbo and go fast".


Another consideration, the 2.2 isn't a particularly stout engine. They will sign off if you force feed them too much.
Think you had trouble with head gaskets?
Wait until you run 10 - 12 pounds of boost. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I turbo a stock 2.0 dodge and got 300 wheel hp. I used ms2 as a standalone computer back before tuner studio. We used megatune back then and had to set EVERY value in the VE. If I can get pics off of photobucket and back on this phone I will show what I did with that car. 300whp on a 2300 pound car made for a rocket on wheels.

I have experienced the troubles of turbos on engines not built for them. The weak point in the 2.0 dodges is actually the rod bolts. Using arpu rod bolts for a ls engine on the stock rods is enough to safely run 350 ish hp before the rods and pistons become the problem.

I've been doing research for a while now on the 2.2 engine. I admit I havent figured everything out but I'm still reseaching
 

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Boozebag
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Ok... Again, being on this forum for a short time I have seen many posts about turbos and how individuals are going to leap tall buildings in a single bound...
Not tying to say you don't have the background, but after a while - if you hang around here long enough...
You'ii see what I mean.
I wish you good luck if you pull this off.
Many have tried, some win

meh, you know the rest.
 

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Not to put words into his mouth , but I think what Mad Max is trying tell you is that for enough money and usually after enough time anything is possible, but it's rarely an easy route. It's also possible the only part of the original truck left will be the radiator cap. Unless you got a new one of those, too.

What I'd suggest is that if the 2.2 S10 is that far from what you really want, sell it and buy a truck that is what you want. It'll be reliable, probably less money in the long run, and save you a lot of grief.

You can stick a cattle prod up a pigs butt and it'll run really fast and then drop over dead. If you want a race horse, buy a race horse. But then don't try hauling a motorcyle on it. For that get a wagon and a draft horse.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I get what you both are saying. That is partially why I'm doing cosmetic things while building the engine. I found out a long time ago not to jump in head first.

Since I have 2 engines I'm slowly building up one while doing little things to the truck itself. That way I dont get discouraged. I'm also away from home for 2 weeks at a time. Every time I get home I have little tasks to complete so I always achieve some sense of accomplishment
 

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Boozebag
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Along the lines of small engines...
I have built a few Pontiac 2.5s - the Iron Duke - just for a laugh.
Installed Chevy 350 pistons (direct fit) balanced, big cam, large intake valves with porting, Mallory distributor wit an MSD box, headers, 390 4 barrel, custom fitted 6" Chevy I beam rods, :blah:
BUT - the one big difference - the Iron Duke is based on many GM parts that fit other engines.
The Tutu is not based on V8 parts, it's all metric Voodoo. So, in order to find different pistons that will withstand pressure... N/A - or custom made.


Chevy forged small block slugs go right into a Duke block with a Shite ton of different combinations of compression/stroke/bore. The big end of the 2.5 rods is 2.0 and... so is the early 327 and 283. The SBC rods are wider at the big end, so they have to be shaved, but that's easy.


The point I'm trying to make, while it is a ton of fun to make something puny go fast, the aftermarket support should be there, or you will empty your wallet pronto.


I have seen aftermarket turbo manifolds for the 2.2 on ebay, and "DIY" turbo pipe kits.
That's the easy part - sort of. Fabbing the correct fitting tubes and intercooler is the next trick.


The last an ultra important... tuning.
You HAVE to have a dyno (some will say a street tune is ok) but I completely disagree. The dyno will give you the most complete readings through the power band to re tune your fuel and ignition maps.


Ok, I'm sorry for the dissertation, but these are just a few of the considerations you will encounter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You are absolutely correct. I use megasquirt which is a standalone computer to control everything including boost when I use the cyclone electronic boost solenoid. I street tune to get it running and then to a dyno. In Arizona i used Amp performance which builds high hp Fords but they know their stuff when it comes to dyno tuning.

I should stress this is a street truck so the power and track number is just a secondary goal. Primary goal is a clean looking yet fast 2.2. I may never keep up with zl1 camaros or z06 corvettes but if if can destroy a Honda or 2 then I'm ok with that
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I should be home tomorrow or Thursday. First thing I need to do is installed the tailgate handle relocate kit so my safety director can smooth and primer the tailgate. I may have him paint it but the bed needs a few dents removed from where the bumper was pushed into it and the shop that did the head gasket managed to put a scratch down the entire passenger side of the bed when it rubbed the lift. So painting the tailgate may wait for a bit.

The bed needs to come off so I can paint the frame with por15 after I install the c-notch. I'm holding off on the carrier bearing crossmember since I'm not installing the rest of the lowering kit this weekend. I'm ordering the tubular control arms from umi Friday and will be gone again before they arrive.

Next time I'm home I will install the arms and rest of the lowering kit along with the carrier bearing crossmember. That's the plan anyway for the 2 days I'm home
 

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The center support bearing (carrier bearing is in the diff) crossmember is fun to remove. Hope you have an oxyacetylene torch. I'm guessing you have the raised one? I have one too, but I hardly ever hit with the stock one even since I've lowered it more.
 

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Chopper! Sic balls!
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They're referred to as carrier bearings as well.

Don't be discouraged. There's been a couple guys on here in my time with boosted 2.2's that made pretty good reliable power.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I do have a torch. I know I may not have to move the center support up an inch but I'm preparing myself in case.

Once the tubular arms arrive I will install the drop spindles and rear blocks to finish the lowering kit. I will know then what I need to do with the center support crossover
 

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Discussion Starter #17
They're referred to as carrier bearings as well.

Don't be discouraged. There's been a couple guys on here in my time with boosted 2.2's that made pretty good reliable power.
I know on my tractor trailer they are called carrier bearings. Figured that was the appropriate term.

I'm not discouraged easily. I know it would be faster and maybe easier to just swap an ls engine into it but I have a spare 2.2 and everyone swaps a v8 into these trucks. I just wanted to be different and at the same time see what the 2.2 is capable of. The rotating assembly I'm looking at has a power rating of either 600 hp or 900 hp depending on which rods I get. Not that I will reach that point but who knows. I know what 400 hp in a 2300 pound front wheel drive car is capable of. If I can get the same results with this truck I will be happy for a while
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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I have the JTR spacer on my truck. I have an early 2nd gen though so it doesn't have the xmember that hangs down.
 
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