S-10 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 1943 Posts

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I finally decided to make a project thread for my Jimmy. I suck with pictures and updates, but I'll do my best.

Plans are to lay out on stock spindles, with shocks and swaybar. Tri 3 link for the back and keeping the back seat is a must. I'll shave some things and do what ever else comes to mind as time and money free up.

Here are some rough drawings for the bags and link set up.



I got the truck bone stock and with in a week had it lower... so this is basically what I started with.



Over the last year, I acquired just about everything to bag it and a few other things. I just recently started working on it.
 

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
So I recently finished shaving it. This was the first time I've ever tried body work, and I think it went okay. I shaved the pissers, antenna, roof rack, rear wiper, lock and 3rd brake light.

I started by making 1/8" steel filler pieces out of some scrap on the coaper. I tacked them in behind the holes and then laid fiberglass followed by lightweight body filler. This whole thing has been a learning curve. I learned some things, like why you shouldn't tape off a square where you are working... I just learned them a little late in the game.

Any comments are appreciated.
These are after the fiberglass and before the filler






Some shots of how it turned out in the end.







 

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I spent months, kind of looking for Krylon stained glass effect paint. If anyone has worked with it, it rocks if you don't have access to professional paint supplies.

I had my tail lights sprayed professionally with clear/black and liked it, but decided that I wanted the red candy effect to go with the single stage egg shell black paint I purchased for the truck.

I just hit the stockers with some wax/grease remover, no sanding. Let it dry and hit it with a few coats for regular automotive gloss from Autozone. Easy and I think it looks great.

Some pics:







Also figured that I would rattle can the grill flat black and oven bake the headlights. I really wanted a blazer front end, but now I think I'll keep this.

Some before and after:








I also hit the frame and anything else I could find with POR 15... holy shiv that stuff is expensive!


If anyone wants to know, I found the Krylon stuff at a Michael's Craft Store. Krylon's is the only one that I found that is darker red like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
i heard fiberglass wont do good over time in the metal to metal app. But looks real good i used 1/8 for my doors and welding it was horrible. i couldnt get ne penetration on the think stuff before blowing through the thin sheet metal on the door
 

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Over that past couple of weeks I started running the air management and bending some hardline. I bend stainless line for hydraulic systems for a living, but the only hardline on my truck is going to be from the tank to bulkheads in the floor.

Here is what I'm running now, but will upgrade as funds permit:

4 - 1/4" paddle valves (poor mans fbss)
1 - 5 gal tank
1 - oil less industrial compressor I picked up for $50. This thing rocks the house, fills 5 gal from 0 to 160 in about 4 mins... it is just LOUD!
1/4" line
dom 2500's


Here is the power system I had to run for the compressor, the thing draws 46 amps! According to my "Basic Principals of Electricity" book, I had to run 4 awg wire, with a 60 amp breaker and a 12v solenoid to turn it on/off. (I may run a pressure switch in the future, I'm undecided.)






Can't beat the deal I got on that thing, I payed $50 and it retails between $800-$900.

This is what I decided for the hardline, simple... and changeable. I am open to suggestions...



Mocked up with an aluminum bulkhead plate, have a polished stainless plate sheared and punched for the final assembly of everything.



You can see here the problem with using .090 aluminum to mock it up. When I tighten the lines and bulkheads, it allows the bulkheads to tilt with the angles of the floor. Final assembly will not look crooked because the 1/8" stainless wont allow it to flex.




My switch panel, compressor switch and tank pressure gauge.


And just for the fun of it, here is a hand valve set up we bent a couple weeks ago.

 

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
i heard fiberglass wont do good over time in the metal to metal app. But looks real good i used 1/8 for my doors and welding it was horrible. i couldnt get ne penetration on the think stuff before blowing through the thin sheet metal on the door

Yeah, I went with 1/8" and just tacked it in because I'm a novice welder... I shouldn't even say that, I need a lot of practice, I suck. I used fiberglass on the advice of the guys who work in our paint booth. They said I shouldn't fill the gap with body filler, only use it to smooth out the dimples in the fiberglass.
 

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
It's been such a process getting the jimmy to lay low! I've gotten the front bagged and it lays on inner fender. I'm leaving it this way until the winter is over... sloppy Michigan winter in my engine bay does not sound good.

Here is what I'm running currently:

Dehumped LCA's down to 1.25", full skeleton and 3/16" plated and full welded.

LRD upper cups (cut)

Pie cut uppers. I'll only be rocking these for a few weeks. Tom at LRD informs me that they are in the process of making their control arms in house. He didn't guarantee anything but it looks like I'll be the happy recipient of one of the first true LRD uppers. They will apparently be coming in a variety of options to suit your budget... I can't wait.

Everything that I have gotten from LRD has been just amazing quality and their customer service is the best. Just thought you should know.

I'll get pics of the set up next time I have it apart. But here is what I got:







Pie cut the passenger side too much and ended up with way too much negative camber... this is after all the shims were taken out.


at ride height...


It will have to do until I get my LRD uppers. I'll get a video up as soon as I figure out how to embed one from imageshack!
 

·
Ridin' on Twankies
Joined
·
3,621 Posts
Sounds like the lower control arms could possibly be to tight, causing a slight bind.

if not, then I'd replace the bushings and balljoints anyway, as they prolly have a good bit of miles on them.:cool:

looking good btw man.
 

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like the lower control arms could possibly be to tight, causing a slight bind.

if not, then I'd replace the bushings and balljoints anyway, as they prolly have a good bit of miles on them.:cool:

looking good btw man.
Thanks for the comment. I replaced the lca bolts with some grade 8 bolts and nylocks, I def could have impacted a little too much to make sure the nylock nuts grabbed.

I love this stuff, tear it apart, put it back together! yay!
 

·
DELIBERATE DESIGNS
Joined
·
8,142 Posts
Looks good jay.

I hit ya back with an email a little earlier on your q's.

Like the others said, it's something over tightned. If you didn't take your uppers apart it is most likely them. I have messed with stock arms before and they like to bind up.
 

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
great looking project man!

so you just used regular automotive gloss paint on your tail lights?
No, it was Krylon Stained Glass Effects paint. I'll post up a pic, it's the only one that comes out good.

JJ- Thanks for everything, you have been giving me good advice from day one/
 

·
We Bend Stainless
Joined
·
2,797 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So I ordered some motorcycle mirrors and waited a whole month for them to ship. When I got them here, I mocked em up to see if I like them... and I don't think I do.

Anyone have an opinion? Please ignore the wires in the picture... worst decision ever.



I was also thinking about this for the wheels, but I might just pick up some regular black caps and paint the outline of the bowtie red??? Opinions are helpful...


OR

 
1 - 20 of 1943 Posts
Top