No worries. Once the Ford is ‘done’ it will be getting parked and torn apart.
Got some sound deadener stuck on the doors
And the lower panels screwed on. The passenger side was pretty shaggy and ugly.
But it cleaned up pretty good.
I could’ve bought the plastic weather barriers for like $15 each (seriously), or...
Make them using the bags the panels came in. Maybe not entirely necessary, but one of those ‘while I’m in there’ things.
Ran out of daylight before getting the driver side done. There’s always tomorrow.
Thank you sir. Got the driver side done.
I also readjusted the door latch strikers. Before, you’d have to slam the doors hard to get them to fully latch and they just sounded hollow and tinny. I forget why, but I had the strikers in almost as far as they’d go. Doors sat like 1/4” in from the cab. Now...
This weekend should hopefully see some major under hood progress. Stay tuned.
Maybe not major progress, but I got the starter solenoid mounted and just about all the wiring done.
Miraculously, both battery cables ended up being the right length without any planning or measuring when relocating the battery.
Still need to secure the wires to each other and the firewall, and make a new, shorter wire to the starter, but it’s close. I turned the key on and everything works and nothing caught fire, so I’m impressed.
I’ve developed a bad habit of going to the junkyard and buying crap I don’t need.
Got another set of dash bezels. They’re kinda rough, but undamaged gauge bezels go for ~$100, and radio bezels are $50-75; I paid less than $10 for the pair. So I’ll make a profit no matter what.
A couple pairs of window cranks. I was thinking of swapping mine out for the black ones, but the chrome is kinda rough, so probably not.
A gauge cluster from a 74-79 truck. No use for it. It was just sitting on the floor of the truck, and I like the look of it. I’ll sell it for 100%+ profit.
And, what I’m excited about, some aluminum door sills. The driver side in my truck is all jacked up from the previous owner trying to screw it down to the rotted out floor. They just need a good polish, and they’ll add yet another touch of class.
Drained the coolant and pulled the radiator, then fought with the header collector bolts for a while and pulled the header. Of course, I had to pull the starter to get it out of the truck.
The header wasn’t as rusty as I expected for being mostly unpainted. I’m gonna clean it up and put several coats of header paint on it before it goes back in. Depending how bad work kicks my ass tomorrow, I might actually pull the head when I get home.
Got the header cleaned up and repainted.
Anyone ever hear of Remflex exhaust gaskets? This header has leaked from the flange since day one. The gasket that came with it sucked. The gasket that came with the engine rebuild kit sucked even more. I’ve been using the gasket that came with it, slathered in RTV, and it’s barely been working. In searching for a new one, I came across Remflex. From one of their eBay listings:
Seals Warped Flanges:
Remflex exhaust gaskets come in a standard 1/8-inch thickness and are designed to crush 50%. This allows them to fill gaps in the flange surface up to 1/16-inch!
• Won’t Burn Out:
100% flexible graphite construction means Remflex gaskets are good for up to 3,000 degrees F—far exceeding that of any vehicle’s exhaust system temperature!
• No Re-Torquing Necessary:
Remflex exhaust gaskets rebound 30%, creating an optimum seal that eliminates the need to re-torque!
I wouldn’t normally spend $45 on a gasket, but in this case, it’s totally worth it.
Looks like the glob of worms I pulled out of one of my customers ponds today. Never heard of those gaskets. I had the same problem with the long tubes on my 70' Olds until I bought these one collector gaskets at Super Shops. Member those? Can't remember what the hell brand they were though.
I have another suggestion though. Cut that B.S. off of there and weld on a V band. 20 bucks with a clamp.