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time to get cereal
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The connection fails at the connector on back. Same thing happened to mine.

They were the factory radio in I want to say Tiburons. Lots of people complained about that.
 

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LOOK AT MY NIPPLES!
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3,560 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,082
I’ve been on vacation this week, so I got a bunch of little projects out of the way.
First, I finally made a proper firewall bracket for the throttle cable. Since I upgraded the carb two years ago (and now with EFI), the cable I’ve been using just hasn’t lined up very well with the pedal. This caused it to wear through the housing.

This didn’t really bother me with the carb, but with the much stiffer throttle spring on the EFI, it would randomly cause issues opening, resulting in stalling/bucking/chirping tires when I took off. So I made a bracket to reposition the cable going through the firewall.




Completely overkill as usual, but it does exactly what I need it to do.

I did some interior cleaning. Got rid of all the junk in the center console and mounted my fire extinguisher.

Much better than rolling around behind the seats.

Originally I planned on removing the EFI handheld once the system fully learned. But since it shows so much important data, I decided to permanently mount it to the dash.
First I removed the little storage cubby.

Then I attached the mounting dock that came with the unit. There was very little surface area to actually glue anything together, and I need to add some structure, so JB Weld to the rescue! I was able to kinda sculpt and build the support I needed.

Then I needed to fill in the rest of the hole. So I made a little filler piece.


After spending way more time with a coping saw and file than any sane person should, I ended up with this.


It’s not in the most convenient location, but I can still see it pretty well while driving. It’s mostly just redundant info that the stock gauges show, and something I can glance at while sitting at a stop light to make sure the EFI is kosher.
Other than that I’ve just been driving the crap out of it. It’s still not low or fast enough. Bagging it will hopefully start mid fall, or maybe early winter, depending if/when I can get it into storage. And I’ve been talking with a company out in Michigan who builds/sells predominantly Ford performance engines, including beefed up 300s. If no local shops are willing or able, I’ll be buying a fully ported, tricked out cylinder head from them.
 

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LOOK AT MY NIPPLES!
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3,560 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,089
Don’t worry Max. I’m far from quitting! Just acquiring parts. Bag pressure gauge kit showed up last week.

I’m surprised nothing was damaged. This is how it arrived...


It’s a 5 in one gauge. Tank plus all 4 corners.

I want to keep the aftermarket stuff in the interior to a minimum. This should fit nicely in the dash.
I got an update from Thorbros yesterday. My 4 link is in the welding stage, and should be getting shipped out next week! Very excited about that.
I also just ordered a new battery tray to relocate it when I remove the inner fenders. I’ve halfass measured, and it should fit just fine on the firewall, where the heater used to be. That’ll allow me to clean up a lot of the wiring, too.
Right now I’m trying to figure out what exactly I need for fittings and airline to plumb everything.
It’s coming down to the little nickel and dime stuff. As soon as it gets just a few degrees cooler, I’m gonna start tearing everything apart.
 

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LOOK AT MY NIPPLES!
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3,560 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,091
Still collecting parts...

Got all my fittings


50’ of air line and switch box


Battery tray to relocate the battery to the firewall


And a universal tank to move the coolant overflow to the core support


Valve block mocked up with fittings and pressure sensors.


And finally, FINALLY my 4 link and panhard bar showed up! Three months, many emails, and almost 4 weeks of being told it’ll only be one more week...
Super beefy link bars


Panhard axle and frame mounts


4 link axle mounts


Frame mounts


Link brackets that bolt to the frame mounts


Some 5” tubing for notching the front frame for I beams and tie rods



Deconstruction started last weekend. Got the front mostly torn apart. Inner fenders gone


Pulled the springs and disconnected the shocks, and just for schitzengiggles, put the wheels back on and set it down.






Yeah, I like that. Still not low enough. I think the swaybar was holding it up a bit. Plus the tie rods were hitting the frame. Close, though.




Wheels just barely clear the fenders. Drivers side rubs a little. I’m gonna chop the inner flanges off anyway. It’ll give me another 1/2”.
Got the brakes pulled off, and the right side spindle. And saw this...

Lower balljoint hole is egged out. I had trouble tightening the nut when I first lowered the truck a couple years ago. I thought I finally got it; the nut tightened down and there was no play. But I guess I didn’t. Unfortunately only an 85-86 spindle will fit, and nowhere within 75 miles has one. I might take a trip to the other side of the state Saturday if the junkyard is open. Kind of a bummer, but oh well.
With the long weekend coming up, I’m hoping to get the front mostly done. Get the rest removed, clean, paint and reinstall as much as I can. Get the bag mounts installed and figure out what/where I need to notch to get it fully on the ground. And hopefully get the bed at least unbolted and ready to remove.
Oh, man am I getting excited for this thing!
 

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LOOK AT MY NIPPLES!
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Discussion Starter #1,094
MBP, yes. When I eventually body drop it, it’ll be low enough. I think.
Mo, body mounts are mint. I replaced the radius arm bushings with urethane ones a while back.
 

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LOOK AT MY NIPPLES!
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3,560 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,095 (Edited)
Got a whole bunch done today. Tore the rest of the front suspension out. Got the old spring mounts removed and mocked up the bag mounts.
The right side is a direct bolt in.


Left side required some very minor tweaking. Had to gently massage part of the frame to get it to sit flat.

And had to take a corner off to clear the steering box mount.

Just need to bolt everything in place so it’s tight to the frame, then weld it all up. The new mounts don’t have a spot for the brake lines to attach, so I cut that part off the old mounts, and will weld them to the frame. This way I don’t have to bleed the brakes either.
Got the radius arm mounts off. I was able to rotate them 90°, and swap sides, and they look like they’re gonna work perfectly to raise the mounting point, and give me almost 3” more ground clearance.

Flipped



Driver side just barely clears the E brake cable, which is good. (Not that you really need an Ebrake when you can just drop the truck on the ground.)

It all makes sense, I guess. The frame is a 90° bend, so the shape is the same either way. I’m just glad they clear the body mounts enough. I won’t weld them in until I have the front end back together and the arms in them, so I know how far back to put them.
I also got the bed ready to remove. Hopefully my idiot brother will come over to give me a hand removing it tomorrow. Otherwise, it’s just a bunch of cleaning, painting and welding on the front.
 

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LOOK AT MY NIPPLES!
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3,560 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,096
A little more progress. Got the radius arms, backing plates and right side I beam wire wheeled and painted.

I still can’t get the lower BJ nut off the left side, even with heat, impact gun, etc. So I’m gonna take it to work and hopefully get it done there.
Got the bed off, too.




Holy crap did I underestimate how awkward and heavy this bed was. When I did the s10, it was an easy 2 person job. And this bed isn’t that much bigger. It’s just a good thing it doesn’t have nice paint...
 

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LOOK AT MY NIPPLES!
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3,560 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,098
So I ended up not wasting time trying to get that balljoint nut off. I just cut it off and pressed in two new lowers.



I test fit one into the right side spindle, and I’m not gonna need to replace it. It’s only egged out at the bottom where the threads sit. So that got cleaned up and painted.



As did the calipers.



Fancy pads and rotors showed up Friday





Today I finished welding in the brackets. I left the bolts in for added strength.







Cleaned and painted as much of the frame as I could reach, along with the steering box and shaft. Pretty much ready for reassembly.
 

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I've heard some mix reviews for the powerstop breaks. Some say they just work great, while others complain of bad break pulsing. Let us know hoe they work.
I did hear the customer service is great if you have any issues.
 
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