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Boozebag
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9,175 Posts
Dood...
Beautiful!!
Nice clean up and mod.
Now... just stay out of the CRAP Comeblowus winter SALT!!!

It' worth the extra $$ to preserve this baby. A winter sled can be pretty cheap.

Nice work. :tup:
 

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Nightmare
Joined
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
Header is all sealed up and I'm just hunting down leaks in the ypipe, need to redo the rtv on both sides looks like it's blown out.
Working out some of the issues in the tune still, but it's running great and getting an estimated 24mpg which is not the best, but no worse than the 4.3....and this is wayyyy more fun to drive.

Got new htr a/s p02 tires on it for now until I decide what I want to do for wheels...
Rebuilt the hydroboost, fixed a lot of the problem but still acting weird, thinking it may be in the accumulator since the whole thing was gummed up when I split it open.

Also go cruise hooked up and working.

Had it out in dayton a few weeks ago, and then took a trip up to Medina for a sy/ty meet up.


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Nightmare
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #84
And so the mad dash to find a winter beater begins. Went from 60's to 20's and salt on the road... This week will hopefully be the last driving she does until spring, going to look at a bravada and explorer this weekend.


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Old Fart
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3,357 Posts
Truck looks great, needs a drop, and will be perfect! the stickers in the back window should be good for 200 hp! :haha:
 

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Boozebag
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9,175 Posts
Super move Dood. A winter sled is the only way to go.
The truck looks way too good for salt duty. :tup:
 

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Nightmare
Joined
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
Soooo, I didn't take any pictures of the last "mod" I did...and a lot of people will probably judge me for the product I used..


But meh. applied two rolls of Frost king Butyl foam insulation to the truck.

did the floor pans, doors, rear of the cab, Door panels, HVAC ducts, Kick panels and the "B pillars"? Still plan on getting some thicker Jute insulation for the floor...


But overall for $40 I'm incredibly happy with the noise dampening in the cab. No longer does it sound like the exhaust it running through the floor, driving no longer sounds like the windows/doors are cracked open, and the cab actually stays warm longer than about 5 minutes after you turn it off.... and the BIG plus is no more crazy rattle sounds going over bumps! before what sounded like a coffee can being smacked is all gone! as well as the "crushed soda can" sound when closing the doors, it's now a satisfying "thud"


I knew sound dampening material would make a difference but holy crap I honestly was NOT expecting much from $20 crap from lowe's..



While lining the "b pillar" on the passenger side I also found the striker pin had bent the sheet metal inward, making it difficult to get the door to latch without slamming it shut. unbolted it and a few tabs with a hammer straightened it right up, the backing plate now sits flush on the sheet metal like the driver side.

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LS1 powa!
Joined
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2,170 Posts
And so the mad dash to find a winter beater begins. Went from 60's to 20's and salt on the road... This week will hopefully be the last driving she does until spring, going to look at a bravada and explorer this weekend.
If you have no choice but to drive it in the salt, I recommend Fluid-Film. This stuff works great and is easy to apply with their spray gun.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Prevention-Undercoating-Protection/dp/B004NDDCKK

Awesome build so far!
 

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Nightmare
Joined
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #89
Well She survived the winter.
Had some annoying issues, that could have been prevented recently.
Last weekend It started knocking really bad ended up being..
I THINK the torque converter, but I replaced the Flexplate that was visibly warped with a new OE one from Jegs, and threw a used converter a friend had from replacing their 4l60E in a silverado.
Got it all running again and then I'm guessing 6 years of abuse from me finally caught up with the PCM.
keep getting zero activity on the bank 2 o2 sensor, even after swapping the sensors and checking all the wiring bank 2 still read 450mv engine off, plugged in and unplugged.

Finally got it to work with HPT showing the o2 sensor was switching the CEL kept coming on and at 0 throttle it kept going +25 on the fuel trims.
while trying to check for a shorted wire I started having issue getting HPT to even connect to the PCM.

Figured it was the PCM just crapping out so for $30 I went to the salvage yard and pulled a 0411 from a '01 yukon, threw it in to make sure it was good and both o2 sensors were reading 80-90mv engine off.
copied over my tune info to the newer OS and the thing runs better than ever and have not has any issue since.

But I mean... the old PCM had been shorted to power at least twice.. once in 2013 when I was testing it fell onto the battery terminals, and once while I was disconnecting the battery, ratchet fell onto the pcm both times it blew the pcm fuse, then in 2017 I hooked the battery up backwards, fried a auto dimming mirror and overhead DIC and melted a terminal out of a brand new battery and then it also got water in it before it started knocking shorted all the pins on 21/61 side of the C1 connecter, so honestly I'm surprised it even lasted this long.
 

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Nightmare
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
Still running great after the pcm swap, but I've noticed the fuel trims are going up to like +9 at idle thinking maybe the O2 sensors might need to be replaced since it's not a sporadic fuel trim like a leak.. and the switching looks like it's taking way longer than it should..

Other than that took it to Norwalk for the super summit show ran a 14.27 in the quarter at 99mph
Rolled on the throttle and still spun so I think I can get it into the 13's.

And I just got a torsen diff to stick in it after trying the autocross and essentially spun one tire the whole course.



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Nightmare
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
Got the torsen put in yesterday.
Didn't take any pictures because the G80 put up one hell of a fight trying to remove it...
Magnet had what looked like a piece of a spring stuck to it so maybe it was broken?
I know at auto cross and drag racing only one tire spun, but a few weeks ago the G80 was stuck "locked" when I left for work and the inside tire was hopping on the first few turns in my neighborhood.

Anyways installed the diff, pressed on new bearings, replaced the lock pin, and got a new diff cover.
my dad was worried while we were filling it because it was making the "old screw" sound which apparently these are notorious for, after getting it filled took it for a test drive not a single weird sound, traction on loose gravel was vastly improved and launching now results in the axle hop again instead of a one tire smoke screen, like when I had the 8.8 LSD in the black truck.
so far I'm really happy with it and for a grand total of right around $300 (diff, cover, bearings and oil) I don't think it's too bad.

Traction bars are in the future, and not the cheapo slapper bars like the black truck had... Going to get a set of actual Caltracs for it this time.
 

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Nightmare
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #94
The truck looks great and it sounds good too. I would like to see what kind of 1/4 mile times you would run with the new diff set up.
I think with the new diff actually being able to hook both tires, letting air out of the rear tires (those 14 second passes I was still at 50psi)
Changed the tune more aggressive timing and got rid of Torque management...
I think it could AT LEAST hit 13.9's.
And if I ditch the passenger and 60lb sub/amp behind the seats I bight be able to get it down a little further


I think maybe it's the 3.42 gears killing me right now with the little tires.
the old black truck with 3.73 and 29" tall tires felt WAY faster, and I know for a fact it was just as fast as a 392 Challenger from 70-132mph.
 

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Nightmare
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
Can't believe I forgot to post these.


The autocross I kinda thought I could just keep it in 1st and that's why it hit the rev limiter...hard.
and the whine is the hydroboost under heavy braking... Google says they are supposed to do that... I dunno

As for the drag... I think a lot has to do with no track prep.. because no one was running where they should...
the hellcat I ran my second pass only got 13.58


So realistically I'm thinking 13.8s at the VERY BEST.
 

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Registered
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413 Posts
Can't believe I forgot to post these.

Sonoma GT autocross. - YouTube
Sonoma GT drag - YouTube

The autocross I kinda thought I could just keep it in 1st and that's why it hit the rev limiter...hard.
and the whine is the hydroboost under heavy braking... Google says they are supposed to do that... I dunno

As for the drag... I think a lot has to do with no track prep.. because no one was running where they should...
the hellcat I ran my second pass only got 13.58


So realistically I'm thinking 13.8s at the VERY BEST.
OK. I must have missed it, but what intake is that?
Also, I had never thought of putting the battery where the spare tire was.
I want to keep mine under the bed. I was thinking of doing a Blazer tank back there
to keep weight over the rear tires.

Jay
 

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Nightmare
Joined
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
OK. I must have missed it, but what intake is that?
Also, I had never thought of putting the battery where the spare tire was.
I want to keep mine under the bed. I was thinking of doing a Blazer tank back there
to keep weight over the rear tires.

Jay
BBK SSI manifold. I think they may have discontinued it shortly after I bought it as it is no longer listed on their site and is not available on Summit and Jegs.
I originally wanted to put the battery on the outside of the frame rail on the passenger side, but there is not enough room there for a standard battery.
if you do a Blazer tank there will be all that room available for the battery.

Mine wasn't so much for weight as it was for no room under the hood.
 

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Nightmare
Joined
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
Installed a wideband, and bonus 3d printed adapters to use my old RAM mount with the pillar and my phone.

Side note, the tune that ran 14 whatever was going 10.5afr..
I've since corrected the afr to around 12.5 for PE and increased the timing more.
Seeing afr bounce between 15.2 and 14.4 on the highway... I guess it's supposed to switch since the stock pcm goes lean/rich to make the stock O2 sensors oscillate? So it's picking up that?
Once you get into PE it drops to 12.5 and holds it.
And idle is a little lean at 15.6 at 22°

And Cold start open loop runs at 14.3 to 14.7


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Nightmare
Joined
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1,027 Posts
Discussion Starter #100
Haven't really been doing much other then putting gas in it and driving.

Though I've been 3d printing a lot of stupid stuff..
Like new center cap badges that are "Sonoma GT"
Plugs for the AC box.
Red bull cup holder spacers
And emblems.


Also been going to more car shows, since it's not a total pile like my old black truck.
Did start using chemical guys products and I really like them, a little expensive but good products imo.


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