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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
It's replacing the pressed in pipe that comes on 98+ 2.2L trucks. I've gone through two Dorman replacements, both leaked within a week. Said screw it, put the stock one back in because it was leaking less. Ripped the pipe out of the last Dorman part and tapped pipe threads into it. Added a second T for an electric fan switch. All stainless so it won't rust like the stock one.


Looks like this stock.

 

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In charge of the big door
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I like the way you used speed nuts for the bottom of our e-fan. I did something similar on mine. What I did for the top mount on mine was to just cut up and use the stock shroud. I figured since it was already cracked it wouldn't hurt to cut it up.
 

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time to get cereal
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Discussion Starter #23
Yeah, I hacked up my upper shroud too, but it's an interim step. I'm still trying to figure out how I want to hold down the radiator. I'll have to check out your build thread.
 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Man, this is taking way longer then it should. I finally got my die handle to thread the pipe, but after grinding it down and re-chamfering it three times I still couldn't get the threads to cut straight. My dad is going to take it to a buddy of his who has a transmission/machine shop.

Long story short I put the fan in anyway. I don't make any trips over 30 min or so, so for now it is just wired to come on with the key.

So pictures...
Passenger side mount to radiator.


Driver side mount to sheet metal hold down I made. I thought this was too flimsy but after mounting the fan to it, it is completely solid.


Driver side lower L-bracket.


Passenger side - bad pic because of the air pump.


I still need to clean things up, paint the brackets and the cut up sections of the radiator support, and of course finish the heater pipe to get my fan switch installed and wire everything up the correct way.
 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Finally.


So cutting threads in stainless steel with minimal tools wasn't working out so much, so I ended up having a machine shop do it. If all goes well I should have this, a new water pump, and my fan pulley deleted tomorrow.
 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I'm functional! I still need to hack the brackets up to make them look prettier, and paint them. I have a spare timing cover I'm thinking of polishing and having anodized.

 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Non-AC belt routing. I figure if I can go the whole summer without hooking it back up, the AC is coming off as soon as I find a non-ac donor truck.

I figure I'll need the blower box, the interior ductwork (no recirculation door), climate controller, and vacuum line harness.

Pic.
 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Oh, I almost forgot. Part numbers...

The smooth pulley I used with AC is the same number as the tensioner pulley, Gates 38015. 76mm x 17mm x 25mm

Belt = 69.5 in

The grooved pulley used in the last post is Gates 36239. 70mm x 17mm x 23mm

Belt = 45.5 in
 

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Bold as Love
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1,869 Posts
If the A/C works, I wouldn't remove it. I had a '85 about 2 years ago that was a bare bones base model 2.5 truck, only options were A/C and an auto transmission. Which was kind of fun in away.
 

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time to get cereal
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Discussion Starter #30
Well, it's a tad too late to follow that advice. I wanted to see how visible the exhaust manifold would be if I removed everything and once I did I decided to just disassemble the entire system, sans evaporator.

Once I get some money together a header is in store!


List of things to be done.
Reroute starter wire under engine instead of over.
Relocate battery... eventually.
Relocate coolant reservoir... in design phase.
Manual brakes
Header
Cavalier intake manifold
Custom alternator bracket... in design phase.


Things to look into
cutting down aluminum radiator support from fullsize
replacing metal inner fenders with plastic, adding tubular braces to maintain stiffness.
check junkyard for cars that use the same air pump, to see what different brackets exist for possible relocation.


I took it on my first long trip through the hills of southern Missouri over the weekend and it performed great. Definitely more light on its feet than before I started turning it into a stripper model. Also the new head and transmission I have added to the fun.
 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Yesterday's junkyard find. Off of a 96-97 Hombre. Now to find the interior parts for a 98+ as I doubt the interior box is the same, and the controls... well, duh.

 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Saturday I also happened upon an S10 with manual steering, something that doesn't pop up often here. I grabbed the box with the pitman arm for 20 bucks. I mostly was interested in the plastic rag joint cover that it had, and the mounting hardware.

Instead of the cover that splits open on the second gen trucks, this one is a solid one piece design. I had to wallow out the hole to slide it over the steering shaft as the first gens was a bit smaller. This one also has a second piece that bolts to the box itself and blocks off the large opening. It fit on fine with the U-joint.



Now it looks a like a untouched factory item.
 

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time to get cereal
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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks! I appreciate the compliment!

If things go as planned my wife and I will have a house soon, so I'll actually have a garage to work in and store my truck. Right now I live in an apartment so it kind of limits the kind of work I can do.

I hope to learn to weld and do the bodywork needed eventually. It will be a slow build, but I'm not in a huge hurry.
 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
I do know that I like the one piece design better. Mine and I'm sure most in existence break where it folds apart.

I installed my non-AC blower box yesterday. I've found the easiest way to do it is:

1. Remove battery and tray, move computer to side, move reservoir to side.
2. Unbolt and remove inner fender.
3. Unbolt blower box, and the six bolts that hold the evaporator in.
4. Remove blower box.

It took me about two hours to switch out, taking my time and cleaning up stuff as I went, including waxing that half of the firewall.

A couple crappy pics.



Next trip to the junkyard will include picking up a Cavi intake manifold so I can see what all I need to do to swap over.
 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Here it is! It was way easier to remove from the Cavalier than it was to remove mine when I did my head gasket, but now that I don't have that giant evaporator box, it should be a breeze.



The car I got it out of had a massive valve cover leak, so it was caked in oil. Also had a bad case of blowby, the runners are pretty disgusting, and degreaser didn't help that much. Going to get some carb and choke cleaner and drown this thing.

One thing I'm happy about is that it was a car without EGR so I don't have to make a plate to block that off.

Also playing with the different water inlet options I have.


 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Messed around at the junkyard today, picked up a 4.3L throttle cable for the Cavalier intake, some Cavalier pulleys to play with, and a spare radiator to take a stab a tank replacement. I bought a manual transmission passenger side tank so I don't have an unused cooler anymore.



Thought this had potential but I don't need anymore potential future project parts laying around.



Hung out with this guy:


Cavalier water pump pulley looks cleaner and works with the six rib belt to boot! Though I think I'm still going to go to five rib eventually just for the hell of it.
 

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time to get cereal
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1,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
Exactly!

Seriously though, I just get on these kicks where I'm like, let's change everything just because I can!

I got my truck inspected the other day and they asked me if it was still a 2.2L. I was thinking to myself "No, I swapped in another OBDII compatible OHV 4 cylinder!" Of course, no such thing exists.
 
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