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35,546 Posts
They're not peeking...they're glaring...
Pro-Touring Blazer
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4,772 Posts
Says the man that drives a Fire Truck! ? ? ?
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4,407 Posts
any new updates?
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2,863 Posts
I did this about a month back:
Putting the EVAP back on and taking care of a few other little nuisances I've had since getting it on the road.
Right now waiting on my Engine Mounts to come back from powdercoat. I've had my own design laid out for several years, but never got them on the truck. They add in an extra half inch or so of drop to take advantage of the extra height in the Blazer frame, but still don't drop the Hummer/Hot Rod pan below the crossmember.
Got the rotors turned, new pads on the shelf waiting, will probably try to track down some of the rattles underneath the truck.
Get it back together in time to park it in the garage for the winter unless I get brave and pull the trigger on some new wheels to put the new tires on. I really want to push out to 11" wide wheels from 10" to better fit the 315s, but to get what I want I'll have to go custom and that's a lot of money to go gambling with. I think I can do some more machine work to my heim joint tie rod setup to get the clearance I need to bring the wheels inboard an extra 1/2" but I'm also not sure I want to cut steering angle any more than I already have. Not sure if I have clearance on the fender side to push them out a full inch, but at the same time it might not be a full inch because I'm keeping the same tire and size, so it will likely change shape to my advantage - more stretch, less bulge.
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35,546 Posts
What happened to the in-house powder coat?? I see the mobile parts container made it back to the shop. Are you going to fold the body seam back while it's open?
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2,863 Posts
I've still got everything to coat in house, but my friend in the shop next door sends out large batches to a local place and we tossed in a few parts of mine once the mounts got welded up.
Body seam hasn't caused me any issues. I've even pulled the transmission from underneath without trouble, so no desire to beat anything up haha
The second gen Blazer frame is pretty well boxed up already. I've pushed it pretty hard and haven't felt any twisting and I've had it unload a rear wheel under some circumstances too.
If I end up notching the rear to go lower and adding in spring sliders I'll do some boxing and reinforcing in the rear, but not at that point yet.
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2,863 Posts
Body is back on the frame more permanently today.
My custom design engine mounts went right in where the rough prototypes had been, so my ruler and napkin sketch work translated to CAD and cutting/welding just fine.
There's always something or 3 going on in the shop.
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I got many hours of practice working and reworking this design back when I had all the fancy CAD and FEA software at my disposal.
They're designed with the Blazer frame and GM hotrod oil pan in particular. They are about 1/2-3/4" lower than the typical S10 mount as the Blazer crossmember is lower. I kept about 5-10mm clearance from the pan to the crossmember as well as keeping the oil pan's lowest point about 5mm above the bottom of the crossmember.
If anyone else is interested... I've got another 4 sets of the final design ready to go as well as the original prototypes, which are very functional, but not as fun looking.
I'm also curious to see how these work with the Holley pan if anyone else is curious too.
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My shop help disapproves of the lack of back scratches.
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Looking to get this completely back together and out of the shop on Thursday.
My custom design engine mounts went right in where the rough prototypes had been, so my ruler and napkin sketch work translated to CAD and cutting/welding just fine.
There's always something or 3 going on in the shop.
I got many hours of practice working and reworking this design back when I had all the fancy CAD and FEA software at my disposal.
They're designed with the Blazer frame and GM hotrod oil pan in particular. They are about 1/2-3/4" lower than the typical S10 mount as the Blazer crossmember is lower. I kept about 5-10mm clearance from the pan to the crossmember as well as keeping the oil pan's lowest point about 5mm above the bottom of the crossmember.
If anyone else is interested... I've got another 4 sets of the final design ready to go as well as the original prototypes, which are very functional, but not as fun looking.
I'm also curious to see how these work with the Holley pan if anyone else is curious too.
My shop help disapproves of the lack of back scratches.
Looking to get this completely back together and out of the shop on Thursday.
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16,808 Posts
I was watching Carcass a couple days ago and one of the guys on their said that the LS factory exhaust manifolds are cast steel, not cast iron. Right away my mind started bouncing around in my skull with a bunch of weird ideas.
If they're steel can they be cut and welded like steel? Can steel parts be added to them? I've got a couple sets to play with when the weather warms.
My first thought was can the outlets be easily cut and repositioned because they're steel? Maybe we won't need to throw money at Holley if someone comes up with a quick mod of the outlets that can be done by simply cutting and welding.
Back in the day we used to split inline 6 intake and exhaust manifolds that were cast iron and braze them. Not the most durable or pretty items, but it beat spending $30 on custom 2 outlet exhaust manifolds to run true dual 2" exhaust systems to the lake pipes. Stick welding the pipes was tricky, too.
If they're steel can they be cut and welded like steel? Can steel parts be added to them? I've got a couple sets to play with when the weather warms.
My first thought was can the outlets be easily cut and repositioned because they're steel? Maybe we won't need to throw money at Holley if someone comes up with a quick mod of the outlets that can be done by simply cutting and welding.
Back in the day we used to split inline 6 intake and exhaust manifolds that were cast iron and braze them. Not the most durable or pretty items, but it beat spending $30 on custom 2 outlet exhaust manifolds to run true dual 2" exhaust systems to the lake pipes. Stick welding the pipes was tricky, too.
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2,863 Posts
I don't know if they're cast steel v cast iron, but know the sloppy turbo guys sometimes cut and weld the truck manifolds.
The 98-99 Camaro manifolds are stamped welded stainless steel. That's what I used and they weld very well. That was the typical manifold option before Holley came along.
The 98-99 Camaro manifolds are stamped welded stainless steel. That's what I used and they weld very well. That was the typical manifold option before Holley came along.
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48,641 Posts
They are cast steel. Is that a Corgi pup?
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48,641 Posts
Those dogs are so cool.
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2,863 Posts
And they're all the rage in Portland haha I was hesitant to get what I see as a fad dog, but he's smart, learns quick, and is very affectionate. Already follows me around off leash without much effort. He's not great at sit (can't sit still when there's food involved) and hasn't learned lay down, but will pee on command, come here, leave it, drop it, fetch, and go in his room.
I would be interested in your motor mounts. I'm in the parts gathering stage on a LM4 build in a 2002 xtreme blazer will be doing a DBW setup for a DD. I'm not quite set on the oil pan the Holley looks to have more ground clearance. I like the idea of the lower mounts seems that Dirty Dingo is the only one that does a different mount for the blazer.
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2,863 Posts
Shoot me a message and we can talk. I need to sit down and look at my costs, but I have a number in mind. I'd love to get these on more trucks!
On the Blazer ground clearance isn't much of an issue as even the deep sump hot rod pan is above the engine crossmember. The 95+ Blazers have an extra 1.5" built into the frame and that's the space I used to lower the mounts down.
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