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I got a 2003 s10 and im swaping a lq4 and 4l80 from my wrecked 2007 2500hd classic the motor and trans sits in the truck just fine im using cpw polly mounts and short tube headers the pulley is hitting the steering box i searched and seen that the Dorman pulley 300-201 works but its not very good and explodes Is there another route besides using car accessories? I would like to keep the truck accessories since im on a budget and im also having a problem with the back driver side coil my buddy said we could probably cut and move the bracket up and just drill a hole for the bolt anyone els did that? I have searched and just cant find I good solution to these problems
 

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It's a 4. something
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I had both of those issues. I run full truck accessories. First off, my engine is set pretty far back to have enough clearance for the truck A/C compressor to clear the idler arm mount.

My power steering pulley was hitting a bolt on the cover of the gear box. I just ground the head of that bolt down to gain some clearance. I can't easily ever remove the bold but I'll just replace the gear box if I ever need to. I don't want to rebuild one. My pulley is still kind of close maybe a 1/8th to a 1/4 inch? I'd have to look but either way the CPW mounts do a great job of keeping the engine from moving so I've never had an issue.

As for that rear coil, there are many fixes for it.
1. Swap to a smaller brake booster or hydro boost.
2. Just modify the bracket to move the coil a bit (seems to be the most common and what I did)
3. Run the round truck coils with the heat sinks. They have a bit more room.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had both of those issues. I run full truck accessories. First off, my engine is set pretty far back to have enough clearance for the truck A/C compressor to clear the idler arm mount.

My power steering pulley was hitting a bolt on the cover of the gear box. I just ground the head of that bolt down to gain some clearance. I can't easily ever remove the bold but I'll just replace the gear box if I ever need to. I don't want to rebuild one. My pulley is still kind of close maybe a 1/8th to a 1/4 inch? I'd have to look but either way the CPW mounts do a great job of keeping the engine from moving so I've never had an issue.

As for that rear coil, there are many fixes for it.
1. Swap to a smaller brake booster or hydro boost.
2. Just modify the bracket to move the coil a bit (seems to be the most common and what I did)
3. Run the round truck coils with the heat sinks. They have a bit more room.
I was wanting to do the same thing but didn't know if that would be an issue once im driving/racing it if you could check that would be great its a tight fit but if those mounts are that stiff it shouldn't rub and tear up the belt thanks this is my first swap ever I need all the help I can get lol
 

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It's a 4. something
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I don't have the transmission in my truck right (done blowed it up lol) now so the engine is sitting a little weird but it's about 3/16" clearance. It's not a lot but it works. As you are finding out, a lot of the tolerances on these swaps are tight.

When I ran the rubber 2.8 mounts with the CPW engine side, the pulley would tap the bolt sometimes. I threw those rubber mounts in the trash and went CPW poly and haven't had an issue since and that's been 2 years or more now.

Btw, you are in good hands here. I was as new as new could be when I did my swap. Never done anything close to an engine swap before and new 0 about GenIII or newer engines. I got my truck done with help from here and it's been a blast for years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't have the transmission in my truck right (done blowed it up lol) now so the engine is sitting a little weird but it's about 3/16" clearance. It's not a lot but it works. As you are finding out, a lot of the tolerances on these swaps are tight.

When I ran the rubber 2.8 mounts with the CPW engine side, the pulley would tap the bolt sometimes. I threw those rubber mounts in the trash and went CPW poly and haven't had an issue since and that's been 2 years or more now.

Btw, you are in good hands here. I was as new as new could be when I did my swap. Never done anything close to an engine swap before and new 0 about GenIII or newer engines. I got my truck done with help from here and it's been a blast for years now.
would you have a pic of what you grinded and how much so I can go by something? thanks for the help
 

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It's a 4. something
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Yea I can snap one. I've got a meeting in a few minutes but once that's over I'll go see if I can get a pic of it.
 

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Ok here's a pic of my clearance. This photo is embarrassing. I blew a power steering hose back during the summer and it made a mess on the gearbox. I was going to clean it but it still leaks a bit sometimes so I was holding off until I find a fix for the line to prevent it.

Anyway, here's the clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I wish mine was sitting like yours that middle thing that sticks out for no reason at least I think its nothing? that is my problem its hitting the pulley and wont go no further
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well the play adjuster is in the way completely im wondering if having my mounts in the forward position is causing me a problem but it looks like its pretty tight as is and don't have much room to move the engine forward my driver side header is touching my brake line not sure if that will be an issue with the brake fluid getting to hot it seams like its just one thing after another lol
 

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I used the truck pump with a 2.2 p/s pulley I put spacers between the pump and mounting bracket then ground a little off the gearbox bolt also running CPW mounts. 5.3/4l80 I'll see if I can find a pic for you
 

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It's a 4. something
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gypsy06vortecmax, my engine is the opposite of yours. Mine is set all the way back. Damn near maxing out the mounts.
 

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Dorman 300-202. Works on my first gen. I have the same powertrain and same poly cpw mounts. The 202 is thee same size but made of metal.
 

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I have used the 202 for several months now with no issues (201 exploded fourth time I drove the truck), I also ground down the bolt but couldn't get it to clear with the old pulley. I also shimmed the pump on the backside of the bracket.

My coils wouldn't clear either, I swapped over to the round coils with the heatsink.
 
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