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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have any of you used por 15???? I want to do something about the rust on the bottom side of my bed.....I would like to do everything underneth...I used the stuff by eastwood co....The rust came thru a few month's later...I read the can to or three time's......I don't know.... I've herd por 15 is good stuff...
 
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it works great! but only if you spend the time to prep the surface and be sure to use the por chassis top coat over the por15. the por15 doesn't have any UV protection so without the chassis coat it'll break down and flake off in less than a year.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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5,363 Posts
i prefer chassis saver over por15, ive heard its hit or miss with por15
 

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Mr Cheech
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2,399 Posts
You can see my LSX thread where I so far por-15'd the front of my frame. I'll tell ya that if you don't follow instructions it'll peel off as it did for me.

My second time around and it's on amazing! You can't hammer it off and a stronger coating then my powder coated tubulars.

I'm liking it so much that I'm putting my swap on hold to now remove my bed to remove all to do my WHOLE frame.

Just have too follow instructions 100% and decrease and strip the frames wax coating.
 

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249 Posts
it works great just top coat it after it dries or it gets a dull chalky color but othe than that it is great
 

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Professional Insultant
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5,928 Posts
I used chassis saver, make sure you do not use any alcohol based things to prep the surface, I did and from the time the chassis saver touched the metal it wouldn't adhere, I let it dry and it came off in huge sheets.

I washed it down with just water, dried it and then it stuck pretty good.

you NEED 36 grit, if chassis saver doesn't have 36 grit grooves it will also fall off (learned that the hard way too)




 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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5,363 Posts
I used chassis saver, make sure you do not use any alcohol based things to prep the surface, I did and from the time the chassis saver touched the metal it wouldn't adhere, I let it dry and it came off in huge sheets.

I washed it down with just water, dried it and then it stuck pretty good.

you NEED 36 grit, if chassis saver doesn't have 36 grit grooves it will also fall off (learned that the hard way too)

it doesnt absolutely NEED 36 to stick, sand blasting and 80 on DA also work great... in fact the demo piece of tin at my local paint store was just done with red scotch brite, that thing has been folded, twisted, and hammered and theres not so much as a crack on it
 

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Professional Insultant
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5,928 Posts
That's good to hear maverick,

I couldn't get 36 grit all over that tailgate, so all the tight spots are just steel brush.

Maybe it was something else, but the chassis saver just came off in huge sheets when I had the tailgate grinded down with just 50 grit. So I started over.

I scratched the chassis saver when I was putting the hinges back on, but it was a PITA getting those bolts in when they were full of CS, So I was really wrenching on it. All I did was brush more on after I got the bolts in though. I hope I never need to take those out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you guy's for your input....I'll make sure to follow the instruction's...I don't want to have to do this job again....It's tedis as hell...I just have to decide what product to use....
 
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