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Rated_R
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658 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok my cat converter is clogged once again...this will be the second time within 2 yrs. the factory replaced the first one. and its still under warr. but i dont want to have to go through this again next year.

my main question is... if i gut my cat converter and get a o2 simulator from casper electronics will that keep my check engine light from comming on?

i live in a county that requiers emission testing. but they do it by plugging into the computer.

i would really appriciate the help.

ben
 

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slowly fast
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2,001 Posts
What country do you live?You might want to be more concerned with why its clogging.Thats not something that happens alot unless your roads are really bad and the converter is slapping the ground and breaking.They are very fragile and when the catalyst breaks it breaks in chunks which will eventually turn them selves sideways and impede exhaust flow.The casper simulator might work because it is tricking the computer,but you might want to e-mail them for their opinion.They would know best.
 

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Rated_R
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658 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
i live in tn

i know why its getting clogged...well sort of... it seems water got to my intake and fouled out my spark plugs. i guess then it made its way through everything and messed up the cat. same thing happened last year...same way.

right now im just consered about my truck accually running. i could get the cat replaced by the dealer but then i would have to de mod my engine. i dont want to go through all that **** again.

i appriciate the helpful comments, but im really wanting to know if this o2 sim will work for me or not. i emailed casper along time ago and never got a responce.
 

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mmm, Crown Royal......
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66 Posts
you can make your own MIL(check engine light) eliminators instead of wasting money on the caspers unit/etc....the eliminators only work by dropping voltage to substitute a certain voltage reading to the computer tricking it into thinking you're running at/near an optimal air/fuel ratio..just do a search and you'll find plenty of sites with info on this. All that is required is a capacitor and a resistor and you either can solder them in or just just some form of butt connector or the like..then wrap it in heatshrink tubing from a auto parts store or some form of exhaust wrap to keep the solder from melting. I'll see if I can dig up a diagram I found somewhere the other day showing what you need to do.
 

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mmm, Crown Royal......
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66 Posts
paperecko said:
thank you.
You're welcome. I took the liberty of finding that diagram I spoke of.

http://people.umass.edu/jjbove/mil.jpg

all you really need is the cap and the resistor...the boards listed were to break apart and use because some felt it was easier to solder the capacitor and resistor onto the board and then connect the wires to that..either way, you have a MIL eliminator for a few $'s instead of spending up to $60 on some of the ones I've seen. To my knowledge that resistor rating should work fine for us, it drops the 5volt reference signal down to .5 volts(perfectly in between rich/lean since the o2 sensor reads from 0-1volt(actually more like .1-.9 volts) and .1 = really lean, .9 indicates really rich..about .45-.5 is the desired reading..so it drops it to right around that) Anyways, if someone better versed in electricity sees anything wrong with why we couldn't use a resistor rated at that, then please speakup..I've having a hard time remembering how to calculate voltage drop and whatnot since it's been a while since I took an auto electricity class...if anyone happens to know what amperage the o2 circuit operates at..please speakup, I believe that's only thing hindering me at the moment.
 

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Rated_R
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658 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
so basicly what that diagram is saying is that if i connect the cap between the grey wire and the black wire. and i put the resistor in line with the grey wire...its should work?

elctrical genius help here....

anyone?

anyone?

mfewtrail...thats for the info man. hit me up next year and ill send you a chrismas card. and if you arnt married, when you do get married ill dance at the wedding.

lol

ben
 

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mmm, Crown Royal......
Joined
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66 Posts
paperecko said:
so basicly what that diagram is saying is that if i connect the cap between the grey wire and the black wire. and i put the resistor in line with the grey wire...its should work?

elctrical genius help here....

anyone?

anyone?

mfewtrail...thats for the info man. hit me up next year and ill send you a chrismas card. and if you arnt married, when you do get married ill dance at the wedding.

lol

ben
Ben, once again, you're welcome! I'm going to do this on someones 4.3 powered GMC Sierra this weekend(most likely sunday, but if I get home in time tomorrow, I'll do it then) and I'll report back and let you know if it works fine. I'll also look at my friends S-10 tomorrow and compare wire colors from that as that's from a ford mustang(wiring should be very similar though) and list any corrections needed as well.
 
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