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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, hoping to pick your brains here and get some advice. Getting ready to order what I need for doing the front suspension, problem is I have no idea what to get.

My truck is a 91 reg cab short bed S10 getting a 5.3 motor. Truck will be 90% street and 10% drag strip. I want the truck to hook good, but I also want a comfortable ride for cruising. The rear is set up as follows:

8.8 Ford narrowed
3" lowering leafs
Calvert Racing 9 way adjustable shocks
Caltrac Bars

Now for the front suspension, what the hell should I do? Here is what I was thinking:

UMI tubular upper and lower control arms with Poly bushings and new ball joints
QA1 coil over shocks with 550 front spring rating
2" DJM drop Spindles

Sounds great in theory, but I wanna make sure it's worth it since its expensive.

Questions:

Do I still need drop spindles if I run coil overs?

What's the big advantage of coil overs over just getting new front springs and upgrading the front shocks?

If I go with Coil Overs should I definitely swap the UCA and LCA for tubular? What advantages will tubular give me over stock?

Any advice would be appreciated!!
 

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The drop spindles should be used if it's gonna be that low. The A-arm angles will get way off if you lower it that much without them. The Tubular arms are worth it. Just get the stronger lowers that work with the coilovers. Stock lowers or normal tubular lowers aren't strong enough at the shock mount where the coilovers bolt. They can/will rip out. The tubular uppers give more room for headers but aren't always needed.
 

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9" strait pipes...
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UMI tubular upper and lower control arms with Poly bushings and new ball joints
waste of money. although hilrod does have a point of you are going with the qa1 style coilovers as they put all the weight on the shock mount. the stock arm can bend and then break. you can always strengthen the stock arms.

QA1 coil over shocks with 550 front spring rating
if you want a cheap coilover, theyre ok i guess. dont go below a 500lb spring rate
2" DJM drop Spindles
sure


Do I still need drop spindles if I run coil overs?
if you are going for that ride height, it would be a good idea for the reasons hilrod stated with the arm angles
What's the big advantage of coil overs over just getting new front springs and upgrading the front shocks?
adjustable ride height, that is it

If I go with Coil Overs should I definitely swap the UCA and LCA for tubular?
probably the lca if you dont want to or dont have the means to add steel to the stock ones. the uca is frill or to match.

What advantages will tubular give me over stock?
strength. if you were doing a handling package they could offer more benifits if used in conjunction with tall bjs or spindles. but not needed for drag racing.


Any advice would be appreciated!!

my advice would be tall bjs, ubm or speedway upper arms, drop spindles, late model zq8 bumpstops and the stock style springs that gets you to the height you want, along with the alignment to make the most of it all, and new shocks if needed. keep in mind most of this wont help on the strip, will just make it a better street truck. also, shocks that help 60ft times arnt great on the street, so a front shock with adjustable rebound may be of use to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's what I decided to go with after your guys advice, more research, and a lengthy discussion with Travis over at Calvert racing.

DJM 2" drop spindles
Summit racing tubular UCA'a with ball joint (may upgrade to taller later)
Calvert Racing 9 to 1 front shocks
Replacement Stock springs (once the truck is done and I can weigh the front I'm going to get Moroso Trick springs, until I weigh it I'm not positive which ones I need so the stock will be good for now)

I think this setup saved some money, shaved some weight, have me more clearance with the passenger headers, should give me nice weight transfer, and hopefully improve the ride a bit too!! Pics will come once its installed!
 

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9" strait pipes...
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The Vehicle Dynamics Bro.
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Why walk backwards?
 

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The Mustang II type front suspension has been used for quite a few years and under numerous different street rods, some with some very large engines in then. It's a simple and effective front suspension.
 

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Is also unnecessarily expensive and complicated to implement, motornut senior.

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The Vehicle Dynamics Bro.
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Its not leaps and bounds better than an Metric SLA. Good arms, and a taller spindle / Tall Ball joints will do the job better, simpler, Highly cost effective compared to a MII suspension.
 

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Is also unnecessarily expensive and complicated to implement, motornut senior.
He has a pretty good list of goodies there, the cheapest is probably the spindles.:)
 

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9" strait pipes...
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He has a pretty good list of goodies there, the cheapest is probably the spindles.:)
still about half the money there. not going to address implementation huh?
 

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That is true but doing them both is best. Either way will be a he'll of a lot better than stock.

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Hey fellas, I am actually looking into a similar issue. I have a 1985 reg cab long bed. It houses a 350/350. What I want to do is upgrade the stock suspension (bushings, leafs....). The issue I have is I am clueless on what to spend my money on. I hear all about control arms, lowering leafs,springs, leave your lower control arm alone, tall B.J's.....Whay should I do.
What brand is the best.

I'm thinking bell tech drop leafs. 3"). The guys at bell tech said their leafs are designed for short bed trucks??? WTF is the difference. Lol Comments?

I'm thinking upper CA's. ? Comments?

Thinking big brake swap, new of course, jimmy/blazer front calipers and rotors??
AND Do those bolt right to s10 drop spindles?

I am doing a frame off 1948 chevy pickup and I want a good suspension / drive line.
There just is so much for s10's
 

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9" strait pipes...
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Hey fellas, I am actually looking into a similar issue. I have a 1985 reg cab long bed. It houses a 350/350. What I want to do is upgrade the stock suspension (bushings, leafs....). The issue I have is I am clueless on what to spend my money on. I hear all about control arms, lowering leafs,springs, leave your lower control arm alone, tall B.J's.....Whay should I do.
What brand is the best.
need more info. it would be best if you started your own thread. how much money do you want to spend, how crazy do you want to get? what are you wanting to "upgrade"? just stock replacement parts that are higher quality, or are you trying to improve handling? DD, drag truck, corner carver?

tall bjs are highly recommended no matter what your goals are. why tall ball joints? they improve the shitty stock front suspension geometry by changing the geometry by effectively making the spindle taller. the end result is(assuming both upper and lower) bump steer is reduced from 5/8" to 1/8", a much better camber curve, roll center gets raised substantially, no more suspension jacking, and the front end gets lowered 1/2". proforged and howe are good choices with proforged being more affordable and the howes being rebuild-able. tall ball joints require an upper arm that has the bj mounting pad at a different angle(flat to the arm, not kicked up like stock) to avoid ball joint bind under full compression; and sometimes a shorter arm to take advantage of a proper camber alignment. the super cheap popular option is the speedway metric chassis tubular arm that satisfys both requirements for $50, with the down side that it has no droop stop. although if you just do the lower joint, arms may not be required. if you could only do one joint tall, do the lower as you get more out of it than just the upper.

I'm thinking bell tech drop leafs. 3"). The guys at bell tech said their leafs are designed for short bed trucks??? WTF is the difference. Lol Comments?
weight and wheelbase. the springs are the same physical dimensions, but the ext cabs and long beds weigh more and have a longer wheel base which changes spring dynamics. although it wouldn't be ideal, you can run then on a long bed if you desired.

I'm thinking upper CA's. ? Comments?
aftermarket arms generally dont provide any gains on their own. they accompany(or are necessary for) other mods like tall ball joints, or coil overs.


Thinking big brake swap, new of course, jimmy/blazer front calipers and rotors??
AND Do those bolt right to s10 drop spindles?
NO, jimmy/blazer brakes require 98+jimmy/blazer spindles. they are different than the truck spindle. the only option(beltech) for drop blazer spindles is pricey, then add to that the cost of bearing assys.

or for less money and even better brakes you could just...
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f14/corvette-and-ls1-brake-swaps-how-to-and-info-522849/
 
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