is a little more powerful than a Dremel tool. You can do minor touch up with a Dremel though. You want rpm in the 10,000-12,000 range for grinding and polishing. You use a rotary stone for the major material removal on the port entrances blended to about 1 1/2" inside the port, then use a 40 grit followed with an 80 grit to smooth it out and obtain the proper finish. You can then polish the Exhaust ports and chamber if desired.
I am now looking into more options than just a S/C......How much can I find a set of usable heads for? What other things would I be stupid for not replacing while I'm at it? How much power am I looking at with a mild but more than stock cam, ported/polished heads etc..? My bro is a v.good mech. and I'm ok... If I had all the parts infront of me would it take more than a weekend to replace a cam, lifters, and the heads? What kind of tuning is involved after its all together, I cant imagine a stock cpu handling all these changes, or can it? Sorry to sound like such a dork, I've never had any interest in engines (besides 2 strokes) to actually take one apart, my bro on the other hand has done it a bunch, just not a V6 or 4.3L for that matter.........
They are rebuilt OEM and they still have the OEM non-adjustable 10mm/8mm rocker arm studs. If you got those I would drill and tap for standard 3/8" studs to mount a set of Comp Cam Pro-Magnum 1.52 roller rockers and machine the valve guide tops for more clearance with retainers on a larger lift cam. Get a good gasket match port job on the heads and intake manifold. I would look for a set of naked heads for less money. I sold my old ones for $125 with everything on them.
If you're getting a cam you should get the recommended springs and retainers also. I recommend Comp Cam p/n 56-450-8. If you want warranty on the cam you also need new lifters. If you install roller rockers and want warranty you need pushrods. With the help of your brother you might be able to get it done in a weekend. It is difficult to install a cam on a 2wd without removing or at least lifting the engine a little. You can have a problem lowering the oil pan in the front to be able to remove and replace the timing cover and get a good oil seal when your done. You should have your computer re-flashed to handle the extra air/fuel you will get with a port/polish and cam. I am having trouble getting smooth fuel deliver at partial throttle settings (not at WOT). I get up to 10 degrees of knock retard with slight throttle applications from steady cruise speeds. Contact Machperformance.com, they have everything you might need.