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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've actually had this thing for about 3 years, and just got it painted and finished about 4 months ago. Since then it has probably had a total of about 1000 miles put on it...I have 2 other vehicles, and rarely drive it. I have decided, since my rx7's take so much of my time and money, to possibly sell this truck. All it needs is bagged and v8'd to be bad as hell. If I were to sell it, I'd be looking in the $5 grand range. IF anyone is interested, drop me a line at [email protected] or call 423-748-7977.

Here are some pics.
 

· Mine's Longer than yours.
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Nice, i'm looking for a nice 1st gen. to autocross but i've never seriously looked into them before. i was always looking at old school golfs and S-10s. I need to kno more about the motors (what sizes which is fastest). Do u know where i can learn about them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everything you need to know about all things rotary can be found here, using the **search** feature.

www.rx7club.com

This is the largest rotary website in the world.

Also, here are some good forums:

www.nopistons.com
www.teamfc3s.org (for 2nd gens only)


For some engine specific reading:

www.rotaryengineillustrated.com
www.mazdatrix.com
www.atkinsrotary.com

The 1gen came with a 12a carbureted engine making about 105-115hp depending on year (1.1L 2 rotor) and a few 84-85 GSLSE models came with a 13B fuel injected motor making 135hp. The 86+ cars were all EFI; the 86-8 nonturbo 146hp, 87-8 turbo 185hp, 89-91 nonturbo 160hp, 89-91 turbo 200hp, 93-95 TT 245hp.

I highly recommend a nonturbo for your first car. Plan on rebuilding the engine within a year or 2 if it hasnt been done already. This costs anywhere from $1500-3000 depending on who does the work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I wouldn't bother with the EFI swap for stock stuff, unless you have a WHOLE other EFI partscar on hand to swap every wire and sensor and relay from. You can make better NA power carb anyway, and it is way simpler.

IF you are dead set on EFI, go with a standalone ecu (haltech, wolf, microtech) from the get-go, which will cost you a grand or $1500 plus the mechanicals. These offer unlimited adjustability and can run any engine in any car.
 
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