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pro touring 5.3/ar5 swap

22K views 198 replies 28 participants last post by  Sebambam 
#1 ·
Hey guys figured I would just start my own thread to go with my truck build. I am in the process of getting parts collected to ls swap my 99s10 base model with the 4.3 and auto trans.

So far I am starting on the suspension first while I'm in the process of looking for my driveline setup.
I have a new set of zq8 coils, used zq8 leafs, front and rear zq8 sway bars and bracketry.
I placed an order through summit yesterday for my shocks, drop spindles, blocks, tall lower balljoints and all new poly bushings front and rear.

I plan on spending the next couple weekends at the junkyards finding a 6.0, 4l80e, and ford 8.8 with disc brakes and 3.73 locker. I am going to source as many things from the junkyard as possible to keep cost low. Including intrepid fans, jeep xj steering shaft and possibly a stock set of manifolds that I can modify or use in stock form if possible.( still open to suggestions here)

Once these parts are acquired I plan on swapping all of my suspension components and rear end first as I do daily drive this truck.
In the mean time I am also going to purchase the holley terminator x max system, along with there 7" digital gauge cluster. To run the engine and for ease of upgrades later on as I am very green to efi tuning.

As far as engine mounts and trans crossmember I will fabricate these myself. ( fabricate for a living)

A couple basic questions I have starting off is I've heard I can use a factory 5.3 sending unit and pump out of a silverado to fuel this swap with slight modification. Is this worth doing or will my stock 99 pump handle the task for now.( planning on cam, intake, and maybe some porting and polishing down the road). with a hp goal of 450 hp ish which I believe will be more than plenty for this daily/ weekend fun truck. But for now just going to throw it in stock to see if I change my mind on how much power I want

So far my basic cost breakdown down trying to plan as much out as possible.

Junkyard-
Xj shaft-25$
Trans-75$
Engine-169$
Rearend-95$
Entrepid fans-30$
Non ac heater box -36$
5.3 sending unit and pump-30$

Holley-
Terminator x max- 1,400$
Gauge cluster-800$

Summit suspension- 670$
(Some suspension I already had so figure 850$)
Total so far -$3,330

I am aware there will probably be more things I'll run into but I am open to suggestions and critiques.
I also know I could go cheaper on the harness but I'm also trying to help future me out. Let me know what you guys think.

Also what things should I look for when picking the engine or trans I pull. Obviously miles if available and a quick turn of the crank to make sure it's not locked up but what else is there to check when at the yard?
 
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#2 ·
You have a great Picnpull if they're selling decent 6.0's for $169. I thought $800 was a fair price for my LQ9. Same with the trans. 2wd 4L80E's aren't real common. Seems like most HD truck buyers go 4wd.
The little stuff will add up fast. 8qts Dex6 and filter, 6 qts full syn 5w30 and filter, 2gallons of antifreeze is between $1 & 200. Gaskets are getting pricey. Hoses and belts can add up quickly.
I'd go with an 0411 and custom harness from CPW over the Holley setup. It won't run all your body and accessory interfaces.
Either DBC or DBW is going to require some pieces. Then there is the whole rest of the exhaust. My Holley setup was over $700 and I couldn't have had one built for less.
Tires and wheels can cost a bunch. I went with cheap Federal tires because they're sticky and used 17" C5 wheels.
About $900 since I have a tire machine and balancer in my barn.
There is an old saying the home remodeling business, estimate your expenses, then double it. I've found the same to be true for swaps. Your estimate doubled is in the ball park of what my 6.0 4L80E swap is costing in a 99 RCSB.
 
#3 ·
Good to know on the budget lol. I'm kind of going back and forth on the holley system. I don't know anything about engine tuning and was willing to learn but have been watching lots of videos the last couple days thinking I may be better off going the stock ecu route and just paying somebody to do a tune once parts are done. Considering I plan on running the motor in a stock configuration when first installed. And at the most doing cam, heads, and intake down the road. With that being said I am probably better off going with current performance wiring harness to maintain communication with the chassis and just paying someone else to do the tuning later on when I decide to do the power adders. It's not like I'm going to be at the dragstrip every weekend trying to get the most out of my vehicle. And honestly the tuning just feels way above my head at the moment lol. I'm a wrench turner not a computer wizard lol.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Good prices.
Look for an 02-04 Caddy Escalade 6.0. It's the LQ9 and has flat top pistons which produce a bit more (15) HP then the LQ4 in the trucks. Which have dished pistons. Don't go too new or you end up with a newer computer system that's 58x as opposed to the 3rd gen 24x reluctor wheel on the crank. Just makes the wiring more difficult.

Avoid the early 99 or 00 LQ4. They had iron heads and different crank length. Heavier, 30 less HP, and difficult to find the right transmission adapters.
 
#6 ·
Just checking to make sure my head is wrapped around the tuning aspect correctly? Once the swap is done using a current performance harness. And I would assume I need to send them my ecu for a reflash to work with said harness. But as long as I leave the motor stock aside from headers exhaust and intake the engine should start and run and drive with no issues? And theoretically I could daily it in that configuration safely? I know if I take it to get it tuned I'll gain hp and it will run even better. But it would be nice to know I could drive the truck for a week or two before doing that without destroying anything.
 
#8 ·
I'm running a stock 04 Escalade program in a 04 van PCM in my project truck since the engine is stock. The 6243 PCM works with the S10 and the LQ9. Still finishing building my own harness. Unless you enjoy doing electrical I'd recommend the CPW harness. There are literally 100's of wires to deal with, one at a time. I like the challenge, having built my own harnesses in the past. This is the most complicated and integrated one to date. It's coming along. If life wold stay out of the way for a week or so it would go faster because I have to reorient myself if I'm off it for a few days. Once I get everything connected then I'll go back and adjust lengths to clean it up. Hoping to hide some of it under the Cadillac covers I bought. I don't have the one over the air intake. Just the main 3.
350531
 
#9 ·
under 800 hp there is no reason to use the holley computer..0411 will easily support that power level.
what are your goals? if you can find a 6.0 go for it, but its just as easy to make a 4.8/5.3 have plenty of power as well.
your pricing seems pretty legit, the only thing id add is a walrboro or similar fuel pump to your stock sending unit. no need to worry about using a factory piece, but that's just me.
I'll be following your build..
 
#10 ·
under 800 hp there is no reason to use the holley computer..0411 will easily support that power level.
what are your goals? if you can find a 6.0 go for it, but its just as easy to make a 4.8/5.3 have plenty of power as well.
your pricing seems pretty legit, the only thing id add is a walrboro or similar fuel pump to your stock sending unit. no need to worry about using a factory piece, but that's just me.
I'll be following your build..
The 6.0 is the goal but im not married to it. 6.0 just has more power to start with. I don't have a real idea on hp goals yet. I'm thinking 450 as of now because really after that how much can you actually get to the ground without slicks on these trucks lol. But I think im going to go gm ecm route instead of holley because just watching videos how to even use it my head was spinning. Ill be better off running it stock, deciding on power adders, and paying for the tune.
 
#11 ·
350581
part of my summit order showed up today, belltech shocks, and drop spindles. Pro forged lbj, and some poly stuff. Noticed my one cab mount took a crap so I got those ordered aswell. I have a couple busy weekends ahead of me friends and family type stuff won't be making much progress so just trying to collect all the parts I can so the suspension and rearend can go in.
 
#12 ·
I'm curious on people's thoughts. My plan is to use a 4l80e because everyone claims there strong and will outlast a 4l60e with no modification. But if I can't find a 4l80 in a 2wd variant how long would a 4l60 last without getting some work done. Also is the 4l60e that is in my truck now different from a 4l60 that would come in a full-size truck?
 
#13 ·
Not sure if you are going to this level BUT, Texas Speed has a sweet cam that would be sweet with your 6.0
TSP 224🤫
 
#14 ·
Not sure if you are going to this level BUT, Texas Speed has a sweet cam that would be sweet with your 6.0
TSP 224🤫
I like your thinking. Im going to put everything together stock and get a feel for how much power I need. Also trying to keep the initial budget low. but after its in and all the hardwork is done I plan on driving it for a year or so and then either cam, heads, and intake... Or just build a turbo setup. but neither of these will be happening any time soon
 
#16 ·
Well little update for everyone. I have finally gotten all the parts to do the suspension and am going to start installing it this weekend. A couple changes in the original plan though. I am going to be using an nv3500 instead of the 4l80e. I absolutely despise automatics and was going to use one because of the power it could take but for a daily/ weekend hotrod I would rather have the 5 speed. I am well aware I will be at the limit of the poor little 5 speed with a stock motor "allegedly" but From what reading and research I have done I would agree that on the strip or banging gears 350 tq is the limit but for a street/ autox car I think I should be fine... and If it's not they can be had at the local junk yard 7 days a week for 75 bucks. I know of a couple different guys running them in drift cars behind a 5.3 and they beat on them so ill be interested to see how it holds up in my application considering I plan on leaving the motor stock for a while and I will be able to answer the next guy who has the same questions that I have had looking into this.
 
#17 ·
Another update. Really regretting not taking more progress pictures and am trying to get better with that in the future. But after 3 days of working on the truck after work (ohio winters and salt makes working on anything a major p.i.t.a.) I got all of the suspension components on and got the truck aligned.
Went with a more performance oriented spec on the alignment
-.5 camber
5.5 caster
1/16 toe in
Truck rides and handles amazing.
Next things on the list are going to be getting a full-size spare mounted, putting a hitch on, and throwing some air helper bags on the back as I'm still going to daily this truck and want to still be able to use it for anything. The body is rough yet but I have plans for that after the motor swap. Going to start hitting the scrap yards in search of a motor. And start getting parts together for the corvette brakes up front. Still on the hunt for a 8.8 aswell.
Wheel Car Tire Automotive side marker light Automotive parking light
 
#20 ·
Well another progress update,
Got done with the xj steering shaft mod to complement all the new steering, should have done it before my alignment. Steering wheel is off now, but it made the truck incredibly responsive compared to the rag joint. So going to have to fix that. Tightened the steering box up a bit while I was at it.

Got the full size spare in place, mainly wanted it to help get some more weight over the rear. And for the warm and fuzzy on long trips I suppose.

Also apperently amongst switching all of the suspension out I lost/ tossed the lca bumpstops and have found compressing the suspension fully the tires like to eat the inner fender. So new belltech bumps have been put on order. Will probably end up removing inners at some point to get more travel if I feel I need it. But this will work for now.

Going to go get corvette brakes tomorrow since my driver side seems to be hanging up slightly anyways. Found a full setup for 250$ just have to make the brackets and turn my rotors down.

Havnt had a full day to head to a junkyard yet but im hoping for next weekend. Would like to get a motor and trans bought soon to get started cleaning them up and collecting parts. Not in a huge rush and just doing a couple smaller projects in the mean time. This suspension was a huge upgrade alone. Amazing how well this truck handles.
 
#21 ·
Hey guys figured I would just start my own thread to go with my truck build. I am in the process of getting parts collected to ls swap my 99s10 base model with the 4.3 and auto trans.

So far I am starting on the suspension first while I'm in the process of looking for my driveline setup.
I have a new set of zq8 coils, used zq8 leafs, front and rear zq8 sway bars and bracketry.
I placed an order through summit yesterday for my shocks, drop spindles, blocks, tall lower balljoints and all new poly bushings front and rear.

I plan on spending the next couple weekends at the junkyards finding a 6.0, 4l80e, and ford 8.8 with disc brakes and 3.73 locker. I am going to source as many things from the junkyard as possible to keep cost low. Including intrepid fans, jeep xj steering shaft and possibly a stock set of manifolds that I can modify or use in stock form if possible.( still open to suggestions here)

Once these parts are acquired I plan on swapping all of my suspension components and rear end first as I do daily drive this truck.
In the mean time I am also going to purchase the holley terminator x max system, along with there 7" digital gauge cluster. To run the engine and for ease of upgrades later on as I am very green to efi tuning.

As far as engine mounts and trans crossmember I will fabricate these myself. ( fabricate for a living)

A couple basic questions I have starting off is I've heard I can use a factory 5.3 sending unit and pump out of a silverado to fuel this swap with slight modification. Is this worth doing or will my stock 99 pump handle the task for now.( planning on cam, intake, and maybe some porting and polishing down the road). with a hp goal of 450 hp ish which I believe will be more than plenty for this daily/ weekend fun truck. But for now just going to throw it in stock to see if I change my mind on how much power I want

So far my basic cost breakdown down trying to plan as much out as possible.

Junkyard-
Xj shaft-25$
Trans-75$
Engine-169$
Rearend-95$
Entrepid fans-30$
Non ac heater box -36$
5.3 sending unit and pump-30$

Holley-
Terminator x max- 1,400$
Gauge cluster-800$

Summit suspension- 670$
(Some suspension I already had so figure 850$)
Total so far -$3,330

I am aware there will probably be more things I'll run into but I am open to suggestions and critiques.
I also know I could go cheaper on the harness but I'm also trying to help future me out. Let me know what you guys think.

Also what things should I look for when picking the engine or trans I pull. Obviously miles if available and a quick turn of the crank to make sure it's not locked up but what else is there to check when at the yard?
I have a built 4L60 for sale if you’re interested. Just pulled it from my 86 s10, it was paired to a cammed lq4. Reason for selling is I’m halfway done with a 1200hp twin turbo build and went with a Jake’s performance 4l80. Let me know if you’re interested, I have no use for it and it’s taking up space in my garage.
 
#23 ·
Im gonna have to pass on that, decided to go the nv3500 route until funds will allow the upgrade to a tremec down the road. kind of interested to see how long it will hold up with my intended use of the truck after hearing alot of mixed opinions on other threads.
 
#24 ·
Another update for everyone. I think I may remove the inner fenders sooner than originally thought. I have not put the bumps in yet so we will see if my plans change but with this truck essentially being a 4/4.5 drop there is not a lot of travel to be had in the front end. as of now at ride height there is only about 2-2.5" of travel before the lower hits the frame and the bump stops I ordered are 1.5". I may end up dehumping the lowers and remounting the bump stop and removing inner fenders to try to gain as much as possible. I had plans of getting a lot of stuff out of the engine compartment for the v8 so might as well do it now. Also noticed the dust shield is contacting the lower, which I plan to fix when I swap the brakes, hopefully this weekend. I could probably fix all of my headaches by ditching the 19" Camaro rims, but they have new rubber and I love the look. Also with doing the brake swap I cant go smaller than an 18 anyways.
contemplating searching for a 8.5 blazer rear end, I know the 8.8 is stronger but I cant find one at any of my local yards, seems there are a lot of others guys looking for them as well. Going to have to do something though because one wheel peels every time I try to pull out on to the road is getting annoying. Also need to cut the rear bump stop mounts off the frame, I have already made contact a couple of times now. Just a bunch of fine tuning to get everything working together properly. I have yet to notice bottoming or rubbing issues while cornering mainly just on all of the junk backroads around me and bumps and dips. Aside from that the truck handles amazing, I've been running it pretty hard just about every chance I can get and this is hands down the best handling street car I've ever owned.
 
#27 ·
Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive tire Toy Hood
got a set of c6 brakes for all 4 corners. Stripped them down and powdercoated them today in some free time at work. Also got a 5.3 pulled last weekend, no luck finding a 6.0 so the 5.3 will have to do. Pulled out of a 2002 silverado. Going to get it put on the stand tonight and start working on the wiring and getting the motor cleaned up and gone through. Total at the junkyard for the motor and harness with all accesories was 200$, next on the list is to find a rearend and do my brake swap on all 4 corners. Still need to find a trans. Found a ar5 in a Colorado, 4wd though buy to my knowledge you can not change the tail housing. So still on the hunt.
Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive tire Toy Hood
 
#28 ·
Well its been a while and I havnt gotten around to updating where the truck is at. I got the inner fenders removed and relocated battery to the bed. Got rid of abs and switched to manual brakes with an adjustable wilwood prop valve. Got rid of alot of uneccasarry stuff under the hood. Went to my very first autox event yesterday and although I was fairly impressed with the trucks ability, there is still alot of room for improvement. I met another driver there with and extreme with a 6.0 and t56, coilovers on all 4 corners and running 315 tires square. That truck was absolutely badass to say the least. Next things I'm going to need to upgrade is the tire and wheel combo I'm running now. Planning on getting a set of corvette Rear rims on all 4 corners and trying to stuff 315s on my ride aswell. I'll modify the fenders and bedsides to do so but after watching the other s10 hooks round the track its going to be well worth it. I think as of now I'm going to put the motor on the backburner for a while. I also need to fast track a 5 speed swap because this auto is not cutting it for autox. Planning on swapping in a nv3500 in the mean time behind the 4.3 and spend the next year or so getting the handling figured out before I add more power. So far I am very happy with the brake setup although it still needs bled, I think there may be some air trapped between the master and prop valve. But all and all I learned alot at my first event and plan on improving myself and the truck for the next one
 
#30 · (Edited)
If you use a 4l80E from a truck originally equipped with a 6.0, like a 2001 up 2500HD they are only 3/4 inch longer in length (31 15/16 in.) than an LS style 4l60E (31 5/32 in.). The shift linkage and transmission range switch bolt right up. Only change I had to make was to either mod or buy a crossmember. I went with a Holley 71222020HKR to clear my dual exhaust. Like everything else in this country the price has gone up a bit recently. The rear mount is 2-1/2 inches farther back on the 80.
You need to add an ISS but coincidentally you also remove 2 wires from the trans plug. I'd thing you could simply use them with a different connector on the end. My 4L80E came with a harness so I just used it. Connected the PCM, power, and ground. Any tuner can do a segment swap in your PCM. Then forget about blowing up your trans. I think I have less than a grand in the swap. Can't get a 4L60E built for that.
If you someday decide to go twin turbos and 4 link with slicks you can get the 4L80E built. Gearstar build great ones.
 
#31 ·
Another progress update for everyone. I sourced myself a ar5 trans out of a Colorado and got my trans adapter ordered from fabbot. I ordered the entire kit including clutch, flywheel, new slave, adapter, slave spacer, short throw shifter and pretty much all the other goodies that go with it FABbot. Placed an order with Holley over the weekend and got my motor mounts, manifolds, and oil pan. now just to place my order with current performance and get the direct fit wiring harness to tie it all together. amazing how few clicks it takes on the internet to watch 3k disappear haha. definetely more expensive than originally anticipated but I made the decision to spend some more money now to make my life easier in the long run.( at least I hope). although i could have saved some money in many areas, with this being my first engine swap I decided to not make my job any more difficult than it needs to be. still need to go cruise the junkyards and grab some odds and end items ill be needing. Im going to go ahead and replace my fuel tank with the blazer tank while everything is apart, still need to find a non ac heater box, also looking for a driver side fender to replace mine, electric fans. sorry i havnt posted any pictures as of late but not much has been getting accomplished in the last couple weeks. planning on pulling the truck into the shop for the transplant after the first of the year just need to get all my ducks in a row before then. also if anyone has suggestions on a 10.5-11.5 rim with the correct bolt pattern that doesnt require 2" of spacer im all ears. if not im going to find either some 17-18" steel rims to cut and band.
 
#35 ·
Yeah I'm thinking the same thing 315 for daily probably isn't going to be that fun. I'll probably end up running the 315s at the track and something closer to a 275 for daily since I'm going to be running a different compound for autox anyways. The pictures will start coming once the build truly gets started. Right now it's just a collection of parts lol. I've got a stack of boxes as tall as me at the moment lol. Im trying to get everything bought and collected with plans of pulling the truck into the shop over the winter and essentially doing a full frame up build. Front clip and bed are going to be off anyways might as well pull the cab too and clean the frame up
 
#33 ·
Yeah I probably won't be running a 315 on it daily, probably run closer to a 275 and get another set of rims for the 315 on track days. And yeah I'm terrible about taking photos in the moment don't ever think about until after. But right now its just like a large collection of parts lol. When the real work starts this winter I'll be sure to start documenting it better. I'm at a slow point again in progress waiting on all the parts to get here at the moment. But the plan is to pull the truck in to the shop in probably January.
 
#34 ·
I have an extra non-AC blower motor housing and recirculation door delete if you're close to St. Louis...
 
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