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· Been there Done it
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You can thank big brother in Californication for that. They required all paint applied in the GM plants there to be water based around 89 or so. GM simply went all water based nationwide. Took them 10 years to figure out how to keep the clear coat from coming off.
GM also shut down all assembly in CA within a couple years. Good for them.
 

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1997 chevy S10 extended cab 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You can thank big brother in Californication for that. They required all paint applied in the GM plants there to be water based around 89 or so. GM simply went all water based nationwide. Took them 10 years to figure out how to keep the clear coat from coming off.
GM also shut down all assembly in CA within a couple years. Good for them.
So if the paint is not as good as it should be, what type would be a better choice since it would sprayed in a non commercial environment and could be any type, do you know what might stand up to heat and exposer better? and could the factory color be matched?
 

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Sandblasting would be the easiest and fastest way to remove it. But it takes a very experienced and skillful person to do it. Too much pressure or time in 1 area will ripple the metal. I had a 1968 mustang blasted once, the guy was very good.
Red primer and shot with Imron paint with metalflake. Excellent job.
 

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Your best bet would be to talk with your local body shop supplier about what paints are available and what's needed to apply them. Acrylic urethane is durable and doesn't require any clear coat, but can be clear coated. You should be able to get any color matched. One of the guys on here recommended using Harbor Freight spray guns that you simply throw away when done spraying 2 part paints.
 

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what type would be a better choice
this is whom i have been using for the last 5 years.
Its not that what GM used is bad, it is how they applied it, and the vehicle owner took care of it.
There is a reason to have your vehicle detailed every 6 months or so. Not just to make it look pretty, but to protect the exterior.
If you dont wax your vehicle, your paint will slowly die. Any manufacture, any vehicle, i dont care, it will die a slot death if not taken care of.

 

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1997 chevy S10 extended cab 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all your replies, I'm going to work on sanding the hood and try to save the paint if I can it does look good except where the clear is gone, and I need to check the top of the cab
 

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Like many things, this is a temporary fix


 

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In the body fender paint business and school, that is called crackle. It is related to paint thickness and differential rates of expansion and contraction of the paint and underlying metal. The best way to have it fixed is manually, removing the paint down to the metal with a dual action sander, then repainting with primer followed by final finish coatings. A few years ago, I had the hood of my black 2000 S-10 Xtreme redone as a side job for $800.
 

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I'm going to work on sanding the hood
there is really no working on it. The unprotected basecoat, or color, has not been protcted by the clear coat. The clear has the UV protectors in it. That means the exposed areas are faded. There is not one thing you can do to make it look right. The best and easiest thing you can do right now is get a pressure washer and blast as much loose clear off as possible. Then wash with a grey or red scobright pad with some dishsoap. Mask and spray 3 new coats of clear of the panels. It'll look medicorely good, and might be all you needed or wanted.

Past that, ALL effected surfaces will need sanded to the facotry primer and rebuilt up.

I have been painting and restoring paint since 1989. I know thing or two.


Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tail & brake light
 
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