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Discussion Starter #63
Anyone know the torque value of the temp sending unit. I read that it’s 106in/lb on a newer truck. Is that about right?

I also need the torque value for the one on the intake manifold.
 

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Boozebag
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The temp sending unit is a pipe thread. You can tighten it by hand with a socket and ratchet. I suggest using Teflon tape on the threads. The one on the head is the temp gauge sender.

Don't replace anything else. The one on the intake manifold is for the heat element under the carb - useless. Don't replace it.
Return the other sender (on the left). It's for the throttle body version of this engine. It's the sensor that tells the ECU that the engine is cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Im having a hard time getting off the temp gauge sender off the head. I tried to get a deep socket borrowed from the neighbor on it and there’s no room to fit it on. I could get a regular socket on It but then I can’t get the extension on to ratchet it out. There’s no room to get a wrench there ether. I tried to take off the power steering bracket off but it’s on there really tight and I don’t want to break a bolt. I got one of the bolts loose with the enforcer (small pipe on ratchet end) but not the other.
Now, I went to HF and grabbed an angled grinder, cutting wheels and a deep socket set. My plan is to cut the 21mm deep socket as short as I can and see it it’ll fit in the tight space. What do you guys think? Is there an easier way? By the way, I got the grinder for $10 bucks. Spent about $25 total.

MadMax, I was thinking I’d change it and it might run a bit better. Your saying it won’t do anything so I’ll take your word for it, unless you think it’s worth the swap?
336991
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Update- got the new sender on with some help. We ended up using a 1/2 inch socket and extension. Didn’t even need a deep socket. Bad news is that it didn’t do anything. If anything , the gauge is reading hotter. The temp gun says it’s running about 180-200ish. I posted photos I took.

I guess now I’ll get an aftermarket gauge and put that in. Ordering it now. My question is, is there a spot already in the firewall where I can feet the new line? I’d rather not drill any holes. I haven’t really looked but figured I’d ask.

Stop me if you think this is the wrong next step!
337009
337010
337011
 

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Boozebag
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IIRC, where the ebrake cable goes through the firewall, you may be able to weasel the temp sender cable through.
There are a few rubber grommets on the firewall near the steering column that would probably work too.
 

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the new guy
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I just taped it to the wiper while I drove around for a few days to see how everything was going. once I was sure about a no over heat, I took the cluster out and checked the wires. when I put it back in, everything started working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Update - So I thought I might be having a ground issue so I took the new sensor off, took off the white tape, and reinstalled. Didn’t work.

I wanted to see if the gauge was still good so I grounded it to a piece of metal and it went all the way passed the red. I’m pretty sure it’s still good!
6F019B2B-3D3C-474E-91F0-767B632CB21A.jpeg

AA9ADB7B-2A37-44A3-88C1-C41336604540.jpeg


For safe measures, I set up the aftermarket temp gauge. Didn’t go over 190*. The temp gun and the gauge read about 10* difference. Not a big deal.
A72F8E84-6B26-4069-B8A2-C982AC3AC806.jpeg

EA204D57-E3B5-4F6D-ABE2-6BF122BAE41D.jpeg


So now I’m guessing the new sensor I got was faulty or I got the wrong one. It did read a lot worse then the old one. I took it to advance auto and they didn’t have another one in stock. The guy suggested checking the ground to the block. What do you guys think? I’d like to get the original one working. Im gonna keep driving it like this for a few days like Superj suggested. Ill let you guys know how it goes.

I know it’s not overheating so should I start another post for the gauge problem?
Also, sorry if the photos are hard to see or there’s doubles. I’m learning what works with the site and what doesn’t.

thanks guys!
 

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Administrator
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Pics are working fine. IIRC, gauges need to be paired with their sending units. At least back in the day that was the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Update - Finally sacked up and worked on my truck in the cold weather. I decided I’d take apart the dash and see if I could figure out what was going on with the gauge. When I was taking out the screws to the gray dash part, I notice all the screws were not the same. Long story short, I tried to unscrew dummy screws. I was wondering why it was plastics but didn’t realize it in time. Heres a photo of it now.
A27DB400-B137-4BFC-BEC8-4E9879091B30.jpeg

Bummer!!! Ruined my perfect dash

I eventually got all the covers off and hit the box that all the gauges sit in. I tried to work it out but it wouldn’t come out. I did notice two bolts holding it in place and removed them. Tried pulling it and still wouldn’t come out. I didn’t want to mess anything else up so I put it back together.
D6A1B83D-07DC-44F3-9034-2CE5C9BAF995.jpeg


I’m guessing I need to take out the actual dash (red part) to get to it. Not really sure.

I think instead of taking it apart again I’m just gonna try a different temp sender because I think the one I got was defective. If that doesn’t work then it’s back to the dash.
 
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