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Boozebag
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Man, too bad you didn't go to Ebay. A V8 aluminum radiator is about $125 with free shipping.
Since you flushed the system, I would re-use the green stuff.

$220? Um, NO.

I also suggest replacing the temp sender before you install a new gauge. I think they are about $12 .

I'm going to guess that you've got it under control now since the last post was 5 days ago...
 

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Boozebag
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Oh, one last suggestion about the transmission lines.
If they line starts twisting, use a smallish hammer and rap on the line and bolt. Use a vice grips to hold the line close to the bolt, then work the nut back and forth.
The line usually breaks loose, unless it's rusted to death.
 

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What’s up guys

I just got in the mail today and was hyped until......I saw the connection bolt for the transmission lines were different sizes. I posted a photo for you to see. Can someone help me through this? The bolt on the new radiator is 19mm and the old bolt is 9/16. Someone Help!!!

MadMax, I payed $120 for the radiator, upper radiator hose and exhaust manifold gaskets from advance auto. I cut the line and it’s been soaking in PB Blaster since my last post. I checked it today and it still won’t come loose. Can you send me a link to the V8 radiator you mentioned please. I’m thinking I’ll have to take a look at that one since the one I have isn’t working.

Thanks guys,
Yowakawaka
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Discussion Starter #44
MadMax Im guessing this is the radiator you mentioned. I noticed the cap is on the opposite side, there is no reserve tank hose connection, and there is an extra attachment spot between the coolant line connectors. What is that extra attachment spot for? Also, there is nothing saying what size bolt the coolant line connectors use. Are you sure this is the right radiator? Anything else i need to fix this?

 

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Boozebag
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9,124 Posts
Kawaka,
You'll find that the transmission line is a standard 5/16 or 3/8 brake line. You can buy one at any parts store and either use a compression fitting to connect the new and old, or use a small piece of fuel injection rubber hose and clamps to connect. FI hose is much stronger than standard fuel line. The lines come with nuts at both ends, simply cut one end to make it fit.
The V8 aluminum radiator you posted is close. You may have to adapt it to your application. It has no plastic on it like the stock unit.
It has provisions for trans cooler lines, and the bigger connection is for the return line from the heater core. You simply plug it if you don't have the line.
The reserve tank hose is a screw in barb fitting. Every one I have bought has the fitting - it comes with the new radiator.
The top or bottom inlet/outlet may be on different sides as compared to your radiator. There are dozens of them on Ebay. Some come with the correct configuration for your rig.
I'm behind a firewall at work, so eBay is out. I'll check later.
The V8 radiator will def be more than adequate for your V6.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Hey MadMax, that extra fitting is an adapter. The line fits in it.
I was watching some videos of people putting in v8 radiators. Im just gonna stick with the new one I got. I don't want to have to do any modifications. Especially if it means cutting something.
Ill be putting this in tomorrow and will let you know how it goes.
 

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Quick update - I got everything in and back together. It still runs a little hot. Just above 220 when at lights/stops. I took it on the freeway and it was at a steady 220. All this is with the heater off. Is this normal or should it run cooler?

the photos are of today when it ran just over 220 (the hottest it got) and before when it was almost redlined (old radiator). The new radiator is making a big difference so far.

Im gonna drive it a bunch today and I’ll let you know how goes later tonight.
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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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3,321 Posts
I'd trust a 37 year old gauge about as much as I'd trust those porn hub ads that tell me there are girls 1 mile away that want to hook up with me.

Swap the sender and see what happens. They are cheap.
 

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the new guy
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and then, if it still reads 220, try a mechanical gage or a temp gun to check the readings. ours read all crazy and near redline too and when I put a mechanical in, its only reading like 180ish
 

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Nice! Here are some photos of the two things I believe to be temp units. The first one is on the intake manifold and has two prongs. I’ve looked for this one before and had a hard time finding it. All the ones I’ve seen for an s10 have one prong. The second one is on the driver side head. What one should I replace? Am I missing one? I’d guess there’s one on the block somewhere. Send links if you can and I’ll order the parts. I like to use advanced auto because they have good discounts.

Gotta love the P-Hub
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Boozebag
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It's the 2 on the right.
They are not very expensive - $18 (?)
Takes about 10 minutes to replace - if you've had about 10 beers.
Recommendation - change it when the engine is stone cold.
Leave the radiator cap on. This will prevent the coolant from flying out.
 

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Administrator
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Nice! Here are some photos of the two things I believe to be temp units. The first one is on the intake manifold and has two prongs. I’ve looked for this one before and had a hard time finding it. All the ones I’ve seen for an s10 have one prong. The second one is on the driver side head. What one should I replace? Am I missing one? I’d guess there’s one on the block somewhere. Send links if you can and I’ll order the parts. I like to use advanced auto because they have good discounts.

Gotta love the P-Hub View attachment 336942 View attachment 336943 View attachment 336944 View attachment 336945
For the love of pics...can you post them full size??
 

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Just drove the truck and the gauge showed it was overheating pretty good. I pulled over and hit it with the temp gun and it wasn’t overheating. I unplugged the temp sensor on the driver side head and the temp gauge stopped working. This is most likely the problem. Also, I sanded the nipple and connector to clean up the connection. It didn’t work.

So I stopped my autozone. I told the guy the problem I was having with the two different styles of temp sensor. He said the connector will fit on both styles of temp sensors!!! 🤯 He also said the sensor in the manifold is an old style one that I just need to replace with an updated one and change the connector with a quick cut and splice!!!🤯

Im getting the parts now and will let you know how I do getting them on. Are there torque specs on the senders or is it just snug?

Hey Rhotpursiut, let me know if the photos are full size. I’m doing this from my phone and still learning how to use the website.
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Administrator
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Are you using the Paperclip to attach your pics, or the rectangular box with the mountain and sun int it? In the attached thread, check post #10. It shows the difference between the two methods. If you use the Paperclip, be sure to select Full Image.

 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Here’s what I got to do the job. The spot to take out the one on the head is supper tight. Any ideas on how to get it off easy?

Rhotpursuit, I only see a paper clip on my phone. I see where it says full image now and selected it for this post. Did it work?

also, are the 18-22 gauge connectors I got good enough?
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