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Discussion Starter #1
Whats up everyone,

Im having an overheating problem. This is the second time this has happened so I'm starting from the beginning again but have some questions.

My 83 2.8 v6 started overheating a few days ago. So far i changed the radiator cap and the thermostat and it still overheats. Ive also checked for a leak with a tool I rented from the parts store and it holds 15psi with no move in the needle.

My plan is to do a cooling system flush next but have a few questions on how exactly to do it. Ive watched a bunch of youtube videos and see people using a garden hose to do it and I see some people using distilled water. I also see some where people use a flush cleaner. Can you guys give me a rundown of how to do it right please? I was also wondering on how to get the excess water out, especially if you use non distilled water?


If this doesn't work then Ill move from there. If you guys have any other suggestions or comments just let me know.

Thanks,
Yowakawaka(y)
 

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Prestone Flush & Fill kit will take care of the flushing part. Prestone Super Cleaner will take care of the chemical end. There are directions on both packages...follow them to the letter. Several gallons of distilled water for the final flush. A new thermostat in the factory recommended temp along with the coolant of your choice will finish the job.Make sure the radiator fins are clean and straight, and there is no deb res blocking the radiator.
 

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What's the problem cutting a line? I've been using these kits since the 70's without any problems. The nice thing about the kit is it allows the air to be forced out from the bottom up when yo fill the radiator.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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What's the problem cutting a line? I've been using these kits since the 70's without any problems. The nice thing about the kit is it allows the air to be forced out from the bottom up when yo fill the radiator.
Agreed. Those kits are awesome. They ought to come stock if you ask me. Every time I service a cooling system I get one of those and put it on. They cause no problems whatsoever.
 

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Once the water is running clear, you can do the final flush with distilled water in one gallon jugs. Pour it in the radiator with the "T" uncapped. Once that is done, start pouring coolant in the radiator. The coolant will push the water out of the "T". I usualluse just short of 2 gallons of coolant. Don't forget to clean and refill the overflow tank.
 

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I just put in a new Start Superstat 192 so ill just leave it in there. I won't have time today. I'll be doing it Wednesday as long as its not freezing cold outside. I did get the flush kit and flush cleaner.

What hose do I connect the T fitting to? I think the two hoses in the photos below are to the heater core. One leads to the water pump and the other leads to the intake manifold.
Photo 1.JPG photo2.JPG photo3.JPG
Photo 1.JPG
photo2.JPG
photo3.JPG
 

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Why not disconnect the hoses from the heater core and insert T between them to do your flush..that way you will not plug up your heater core with the crap you are going to flush out of the engine a rad.
 

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The core still has to be flushed. No sense re-inventing the wheel....not to mention the hoses are different sizes.
 

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the new guy
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I would disconnect the heater core and flush it on its own after I did the engine and radiator. just stick the hose on one of those lines and set the hvac slider to heat.

you will probably see some crazy stuff come out.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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I would disconnect the heater core and flush it on its own after I did the engine and radiator. just stick the hose on one of those lines and set the hvac slider to heat.

you will probably see some crazy stuff come out.
Had an old Buick LeSabre 92 that I bought for $50 that had been sitting for two years. After bringing it back from the dead, it started having overheating issues. Backflushing removed tons of rusty coolant and water. It also removed the gunk that was keeping it from leaking like a sieve. I replaced the radiator. About a week later the core went out too. That was fun removing the dash. Then the metal bypass tube on top of the motor rusted in two....no joke. Replaced that. Terrified the block plugs were next. Never happened though....that did happen to the 84 s10 though when it was parked years ago....what a pain!

I've done a heater core on a 90 S-10 and it was a pain in the butt, and requires a lot of disassembly, but the 84 S-10? You can change one of those in about 2 hours. Easy as pie. Remove glove box door and insert, lower panel and the heater core lower housing. take off brackets and hoses under hood. Replace. One last thing...if you do have to do the core too, you can find a factory core (AC Delco) you are way better off. Most aftermarket cores don't fit worth *.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry guys, I'm got more confused now!

I thought I was supposed to cut the "T" fitting from the flush kit into one of the heater core hoses and flush the whole system from the "T" fitting. My thought was all the fluid would drain from the lower radiator hose. Now I'm seeing you guys say that I should flush the radiator and engine first and then do the heater core separate. Can you guys do me a solid and provide a detailed/correct way to do this job please? I've never done this before and want to do it right! No sense in doing it the wrong way. Like i mentioned before, I have the flush kit, flush cleaner, and coolant/distilled water.

Side Note: Finals week is a week away and Im going hunting for the first time this weekend. I won't be doing this job till next week sometime. Plus, my schedule needs to link up with a buddys so I can use his hose. Ill keep you guys posted.

Thanks everyone
Yowakawaka
 

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jeez...this isn't rocket science. Follow the directions. If you want to back flush the forego ahed and do it after the engine flush.
 

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the new guy
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sorry bro. I messed you up going off topic on the heater core. just cut your "t" into the radiator line and flush away
 

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You will find the flush kit comes with a "goose neck" sort of looking plastic tube. This is designed to fit in the place of the radiator cap so it points the flush water away from the engine.
You cut either hose going to the heater core and install the 'T'.
I usually remove the bottom main rad hose to drain as much coolant as possible (first). Re connect the bottom hose, connect the garden hose to the 'T' with the adapter provided, then remove radiator cap and install the goofy plastic goose neck in the radiator in place of the cap.
Make sure you turn the heat to the highest setting too. This will flush the heater core.
As suggested earlier, you may want to disconnect both heater core supply hoses and back flush both hoses.
I start the engine to circulate coolant, then turn on the garden hose. Wait for the water to run clear - out of the goose neck, then close the garden hose.
I also drive the vehicle for a day then do it all again.
If you are really serious, (depending on which engine you have) there are drain plugs on each side of the block on a 'V' engine. One on a 4 cylinder. Usually low on the back of the block and they are a PIA to access.
They are 3/8" pipe plugs. If you remove them, most of the time you will have to stick a drill bit or screw driver in the opening. There is usually a bunch of sediment and rust blocking the opening.
I replace the plugs with brass plugs.
Once you drain everything, probably the best way to refill is buy the pre-diluted coolant. It has distilled water already mixed. It's also diluted to the best freeze protectant level.(50/50%)

Another note: I have seen radiators plug up so badly, they cause overheating. You can look in the radiator after removing the cap and see the capillary tubes.
I have also run into a strange issue... the impellers on the water pump actually rotted away. You can tell if the coolant doesn't circulate well after the truck is at operating temps. Again... look in the rad with the cap off.

Hope this helps...

Confucius say: Good coolant mean cool engine...
 
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