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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys, I just wired my ground for my amp the correct way by going through the floor of my cab to the frame instead of a seat frame bolt.

But now my amp is overheating very easily and shutting often due to the thermal protection on my amp. Nothing else has changed. Only thing I can think of is that it was restricted in some way before with the not so ideal ground and now that it has a good gorund it pulling allot more juice causing it to heat up more. Any ideas guys?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lol.. I'd rather fix it the correct way then go back to a bad ground to keep the amp from getting all teh juice it needs, that is if this really is the issue.
 

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get a box fan out it in front of the amp get a converter and put it on high too cool the amp while your beatin down yo block

haha sorry im done with my stupid ass ideas/comments
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea I was thinking about modding hte case to accept to big ol's pc case fan's. But I want to try and fix my initail problem first then do that as an after thought.
 

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My amp gets hot that i can barley touch it, but it doesnt shut off. So maybe your trying to push it and it cant handle it. Maybe upgrade? Does anyone elses amps get pretty hot?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Skinnyg, I grinded it down nice and polished smooth, and used a claw washer to dig into the frame metal. I soldered the round end connection that bolts to teh frame. I put enough solder on it that it coulnd't absorb any more solder into the 4 gauge wire strands and the other end is just twisted bare and clamped into the amp, so I can't see it beign a bad ground issue.

RuLayd, I'm not pushing it any harder then when I had it grounded to the seat bolt. It shuts off becasue my amp has a thermal protection built in.
 

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If your Turning up all your gains and your Bass knob and have ur Volume all the way up on your headunit. Your amp is going to get very hot from working to hard to meet and comply with all the things you are asking from it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
RuLayd, your getting sidetracked, like I said in my first post *nothing* else has been changed. The gain was set properly when I had it grounded on one of the seat bolts a while back, though I did check it again after redoing my ground while listending for distortion, but found that it didn't need any adjusting.
 

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did you chang wire size? maybe bigger wire? You have your ground bare but its already on bare metal so paint it over, maybe its getting wet and something goofy is happening
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll check it out for looseness next chance I get and spray it over with some rustoleum black paint I have. I originally had 8gauge for the ground to the seat bolt since it was only 1.5 feet long, but when I grounded to the frame I went with 4 gauge about 3 feet long. I have heard that voltage drops can casue it to over heat and ever since going to a frame ground at idle it now will affect the headlights and volt gauge, but still not so much at anything higher then idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I checked out the ground bolt on the frame rail and its was still good and tight.

When you guys use the frame as a ground do you run wiring from the negative on the battery to the frame up front also. I'm thinking maybe my stock grounds from the battery to the frame are corroded or something since my frame is exceptionally corroded due to northern salty roads. Since my amp does get hotter till its scorching over about a 15 - 20 min period and that seems more like a bad ground causing heat build up. What you guys think?
 

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You are running you amp either too high of ohms or too low of ohms and it does not match the subs. Let me know what model amp and what model subs and i'll let you know. Trust me i have done car audio for years. You could also have a short in the amp but that is only like a 10% chance.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Look this amp and sub is wired the same exact way as it was before with the old ground and before I switched over to a ported box. And both of those times it never over heated. Wiring is not an issue.

But just to tickle your fancy my amp is an old Kenwood KAC S-726 I run it mono bridged for 300RMS and 600 peak. My Sub is a Kicker 10" L5 dual 2 ohm that is run in series for a 4 ohm load. I wired Coil 1 "+" to the Coil 2 "-", and according to Kicker it doens't matter which coil they are as long as it one "-" to another "+" to make my sub run a t 4 ohm. Also my amp is stable at 2ohms, though if my sub was wired wrong I would be running 1 ohm, so it that tidbit doesn't really matter.

So yea its not a ohm wiring issue, more then likely a bad ground issue, I think.
Do you guys run an extra ground form the battery to the frame up front when you use the mid chassis to ground your subs on? My frame is very corroded and maybe the front ground is also corroded up. you guys now where it is located?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yea it is bridged to get those 300/600 watt specs. ITs how I have run it since the old ground and my old sealed box, that had no issues.
 

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My amp gets hot that i can barley touch it, but it doesnt shut off. So maybe your trying to push it and it cant handle it. Maybe upgrade? Does anyone elses amps get pretty hot?
My amp gets hot as shit also, to the point where if I wanted some breakfast i could cook it up right in the cab. I have clear power and ground wire, and right near the amp I can see yellow portions which leads me to believe it's burning somehow.. I've got 8 guage coming off of the battery, into a fuse, then 4 guage coming from that into the amp. I'm running components, and a single 12'' off of it'...gain is 3/4 the way up on both (4 channel) the sub is bridged for 225 watts, the sub is 500 watts.
 

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try checking the ohms at the amp and make sure something isn't wrong.


also get some 2 gauge wire for the body and frame. that may help
 
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