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Discussion Starter #1
Do I have these on the correct sides?

From what I saw of a couple pics online, they are. The motor also sits very level in the engine compartment.

The reason I ask is because I was putting the trans crossmember in and everything is back about 1" too far. Ive also read that everyone has room behind the engine and firewall, I do not, however I figured it was due to the body drop since everything seems to be a tigher fit. The slots on the mounts will not allow me to move the engine any farther forward, so now Im left with the previously asked question... are the correct to begin with??

Drivers mount


Passenger mount


Im probably gonna swap them anyway and see what happens, but I figured Id ask anyway.

Thanks.
 

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My engine in my blazer was a little tight against the firewall. The tranny mount needing to go back is probably because you aren't using the LT style bellhousing from your s10 motor i'm guessing. The 5.3l/ls1/6.0 bellhousings are slightly longer. Make sure you use the right bellhousing or the input shaft won't be in correctly.
 

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They look correct to me, My engine sits real close to the firewall also. I guess it's because of the 3" susp. drop. Did you try turning the crossmember around.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
My engine in my blazer was a little tight against the firewall. The tranny mount needing to go back is probably because you aren't using the LT style bellhousing from your s10 motor i'm guessing. The 5.3l/ls1/6.0 bellhousings are slightly longer. Make sure you use the right bellhousing or the input shaft won't be in correctly.
i can only use 1 bellhousing, its an LS1

They look correct to me, My engine sits real close to the firewall also. I guess it's because of the 3" susp. drop. Did you try turning the crossmember around.
suspension isnt going to change anything, and you cant spin the crossmember, it only goes 1 way
 

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they look right to me, but yeah, that would probably be about right, a 3" drop could put your drive train out of sync about an inch or so, are you running a t56 or 4l60e?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
they look right to me, but yeah, that would probably be about right, a 3" drop could put your drive train out of sync about an inch or so, are you running a t56 or 4l60e?
LS1/4L60E combo.

The thing is, everything could use to come forward about 1" or so, I just have no way of achiveing it.

I could flip the motor mounts around (which I did try), but that will require me to hack almost all of the K-member out, which I dont want to do, not to mention puts the oil drain plug in an almost no-reachable situation, so I swaped the mounts back to where I originally had them.

From a quick measure, it looks like the LS1 bellhousing is about 7/8" longer than the standard 4L60E, so that would account for the tranny crossmember not bolting right in. Now the question is, how do I want to go about modifying it ;)
 

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You can use the LT style bellhousing if you use an LT torque converter, input shaft, and then use a spacer intended for using the LT tranny on ls style motor.

As for the mounts with the ls bellhousing, just drill new holes or cut and weld some metal onto the crossmember. And yes you'll have to "guide" the bottom of the cab with a sledgehammer (lots and lots of wacking) to get it to fit in correctly.
 

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if you go the reg v-8 bell, you wont have 2 bellhousing bolts, you cant put one in the top right hole as the block isnt tapped there, and the reg v-8 bells dont have a top bolt hole, unless there is a magical bellhousing i dont know about yet. besides, the bell wont affect your engine position on the mounts, and how far forward it is as far as hitting the firewall, if it was an inch longer, your trans would be an inch further back at the crossmember, and the driveshaft would be and inch shorter.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
You have a body dropped truck?
no but my girlfriend does


You can use the LT style bellhousing if you use an LT torque converter, input shaft, and then use a spacer intended for using the LT tranny on ls style motor.

As for the mounts with the ls bellhousing, just drill new holes or cut and weld some metal onto the crossmember. And yes you'll have to "guide" the bottom of the cab with a sledgehammer (lots and lots of wacking) to get it to fit in correctly.
ehh screw that LT crap, too much work.

unfortunately I cant just "drill new holes", there is nowhere to drill, Im gonna have to cut out some of the crossmember and weld in a new plate since the hole would be back into the "box" part of the crossmember.

No need to do anything with sledgehammers either, I cut the trans tunner out with my plasma cutter yesterday, made getting everything in there much easier :)

if you go the reg v-8 bell, you wont have 2 bellhousing bolts, you cant put one in the top right hole as the block isnt tapped there, and the reg v-8 bells dont have a top bolt hole, unless there is a magical bellhousing i dont know about yet. besides, the bell wont affect your engine position on the mounts, and how far forward it is as far as hitting the firewall, if it was an inch longer, your trans would be an inch further back at the crossmember, and the driveshaft would be and inch shorter.
yes, inch back it is, but what I was curious about is if thats normal because I could definately use the extra inch between the engine and firewall as well, but Im most likely just gonna box that in a couple inches to make up for it and keep the oil pan where it is now. :tup:
 
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