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· B4U Task Force
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35,534 Posts
You might want to read all you can in this section (V8 Discussion). It will cover almost everything you need to know, and I'm sure others will pop in. You have a lot more than the oil pan to figure out. Transmission, gauges, emissions if you have them. Not to mention the feds don't want an engine that is older than the vehicle in your truck.
 
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· Been there Done it
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16,795 Posts
A 1996-02 L31 Vortec 350 would be a whole lot easier and by the time it's complete the total expenditure will be less. Wiring is a matter of adding 4 wires. Fuel needs no changes and bolts up. Put a PCM out of a 2000 van with the L31 in it and it's ready to go. None of which is true for an 84 smog era motor. You'll also lose most of your gauges with a carbed motor and have to buy analog gauges and fabricate a new cluster. Not a small undertaking, with all the indicator lights and wiring. The fuel system will need some costly changes also. You can't pump 60 PSI into a carb designed for 5 psi.
The L31 is 60 HP more than the smog era 350. And will run a lot smoother because it has sequential port fuel injection.
Not to mention running cleaner and probably better on MPG.
On 2wd trucks the stock oil pan works, even the old ones. Unless it's 4wd. The issue with oil pans on a 2wd is primarily an LS engine issue because the lower part of the block is deeper.
On most swaps the engine only accounts for less than 1/4 of what you'll end up spending and making the wrong choice can increase all the other costs. I've seen a number of guys spend $500 on a intake manifold and a carburetor for an old motor when they could have bought a good L31 for less money and not had to deal with any intake issues.
If your truck is currently a 2.2 there are other changes that will be needed for any V8. Starting with transmission and wiring.
 
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· FLORIDA BUTCH
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164 Posts
A straight 350 will require a lot less wiring and headache than an LS. And will be just as fast. So if you don't have deep pockets, just stick with the straight 350 route. When you are ready to buy motor mounts, it makes a big difference what the original motor size was in your truck. You have to buy the ones that match your original motor. And don't let someone talk you into aluminum heads. Get cast iron. Summit makes really good cast iron heads for Chevy SB, and they are cheap. I put a forged steel crank in mine and H Beam rods so I could get some years out of it. If someone starts talking to you about EAGLE Parts, RUN!
 

· Been there Done it
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16,795 Posts
Who said anything about an LS? I was simply explaining that for a 2000 S10 a carb would be more work than FI. And would actually simplify the wiring.
 

· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Going to put a 1984 350 carbed in a 2000 Sonoma. Does the oil pan need to be modified ?

Thanks for any direction
RSW
I think I need to be more specific. We are building a rat rod out of an S10 or Sonoma, whatever I can find with a title. You would be surprised how many people In Fl/Ga don't have titles for their vehicles. I built a S10 V8 conversion back in the mid 80's. I just can't remember if the the V8 oil pan needed to be modded to fit the frame or steering linkage. I'm going with the 1984 350 because its already here. V8's just look better in a rat rod........thanks for any help.
RSW
 

· Two tones of terror
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875 Posts
I cant fathom doing a v8 swap and ending up with LESS hp than the 4.3 I just took out of it. My mind is blown.
 
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