S-10 Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been searching this forum for a while and no one has a conclusive answer;
can you change the oil pan gasket in a 2nd gen 2WD 4.3L + Manual trans by just lifting the motor a little with a hoist?

I have an engine hoist but I'm trying to do this job in 3 days and it isn't worth it to me to pull the entire motor right now.

many thanks to anyone who can answer :)
 

·
Been there Done it
Joined
·
11,257 Posts
You have to lift it more than a little, but it can be done 1/2 way out. The question is at that point, since so much will have to be disconnected to get to that point, why not just pull it and do it right? Rather than have to work around a bunch of obstacles to make it fit into place. Less chance you'll have to do it over.
I heard both sides of the debate and still go with GM's method:
1.Disconnect battery
2. Remove engine; see section so and so.
That's what the FSM says.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You have to lift it more than a little, but it can be done 1/2 way out. The question is at that point, since so much will have to be disconnected to get to that point, why not just pull it and do it right? Rather than have to work around a bunch of obstacles to make it fit into place. Less chance you'll have to do it over.
I heard both sides of the debate and still go with GM's method:
1.Disconnect battery
2. Remove engine; see section so and so.
That's what the FSM says.
Thanks for the reply. The reason why is because this is my daily and I'm trying not to tear it completely apart unless I have to LOL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You have to lift it more than a little, but it can be done 1/2 way out. The question is at that point, since so much will have to be disconnected to get to that point, why not just pull it and do it right? Rather than have to work around a bunch of obstacles to make it fit into place. Less chance you'll have to do it over.
I heard both sides of the debate and still go with GM's method:
1.Disconnect battery
2. Remove engine; see section so and so.
That's what the FSM says.
do you have experience removing 4.3s? I have a question or two if so, please :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,247 Posts
I like to drop the trans, remove hood, and then pop the engine out the top, but I usually have a hoist + transmission jack when I do it that way. The manual transmission does make this easier as they tend to be lighter/smaller and less transmission fluid leakage.

The engine is designed to come out while disconnecting only a "few" things - radiator, engine harness only has a couple connections to the rest of the truck and they're all underhood, intake, vacuum lines, fuel lines, exhaust, etc.

3 days is doable, but I've pulled more than a few engines. If there are any other suspect gaskets this is a good time to do them. Timing chain might be worth it too depending on engine age.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I like to drop the trans, remove hood, and then pop the engine out the top, but I usually have a hoist + transmission jack when I do it that way. The manual transmission does make this easier as they tend to be lighter/smaller and less transmission fluid leakage.

The engine is designed to come out while disconnecting only a "few" things - radiator, engine harness only has a couple connections to the rest of the truck and they're all underhood, intake, vacuum lines, fuel lines, exhaust, etc.

3 days is doable, but I've pulled more than a few engines. If there are any other suspect gaskets this is a good time to do them. Timing chain might be worth it too depending on engine age.
Okay great, thanks for the info. do I have to remove the exhaust manifolds or can i just drop the y pipe? Also, where do you mount the hoist to the motor?

Its 140k. I was thinking about doing the fuel spider + all the seals involved while I'm at it as preventative maintenance, but if I do that i won't have much money left for timing chains and such.
 

·
Been there Done it
Joined
·
11,257 Posts
Unless the spider is giving you trouble you can wait on that since you won't have a better chance than now to do the timing chain, front cover and rear seal.
They make a really good teflon rear seal.
FEL-PRO BS40656 PTFE Rubber; One-piece; Protective sleeve/Installation tool incl.
Use a MELLING 38MMSRH72SB quiet timing set with included tensioner and late model cover #89017259. (ATP 103073). GM are overpriced. Don't buy one of Amazon. You'll likely get a cheap clone with a fake GM label.
You should always replace the cover any way to have a new front seal.
The later model chains aren't as HD as the previous ones but the tensioner provides more accurate timing.
At 140K I'd also do the lower intake while it's on the stand. 8 bolts. Get the top shelf gasket and you won't need to ever do it again. Reuse the bolts. MAHLE MIS16168 or FEL-PRO MS98002T. Both brands include valve cover gaskets as well.
With all the above and a FEL-PRO OS30680R or MAHLE OS32133 pan gasket and a tube of Permatex Right Stuff, your engine will be tighter than a first year cheerleader.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Frank Bukowski

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Unless the spider is giving you trouble you can wait on that since you won't have a better chance than now to do the timing chain, front cover and rear seal.
They make a really good teflon rear seal.
FEL-PRO BS40656 PTFE Rubber; One-piece; Protective sleeve/Installation tool incl.
Use a MELLING 38MMSRH72SB quiet timing set with included tensioner and late model cover #89017259. (ATP 103073). GM are overpriced. Don't buy one of Amazon. You'll likely get a cheap clone with a fake GM label.
You should always replace the cover any way to have a new front seal.
The later model chains aren't as HD as the previous ones but the tensioner provides more accurate timing.
At 140K I'd also do the lower intake while it's on the stand. 8 bolts. Get the top shelf gasket and you won't need to ever do it again. Reuse the bolts. MAHLE MIS16168 or FEL-PRO MS98002T. Both brands include valve cover gaskets as well.
With all the above and a FEL-PRO OS30680R or MAHLE OS32133 pan gasket and a tube of Permatex Right Stuff, your engine will be tighter than a first year cheerleader.
Dang thanks for the detailed response. I think I’ve gathered the willpower to pull the motor this weekend.

Already did the rear main seal a few months ago, but I’ll replace all the other things. Is a timing chain replacement really necessary? I was always under the impression that those are pretty bulletproof.
 

·
time to get cereal
Joined
·
5,098 Posts
Is it the original chain? They are wear items with service intervals you know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,247 Posts
Okay great, thanks for the info. do I have to remove the exhaust manifolds or can i just drop the y pipe? Also, where do you mount the hoist to the motor?
Manifolds can stay on. I haven't pulled a 4.3 in awhile, but I typically go for the heads, accessories, or exhaust manifolds when I'm pulling engines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
958 Posts
Thanks for the reply. The reason why is because this is my daily and I'm trying not to tear it completely apart unless I have to LOL.
I currently have the oil pan off my '99 ZR2 and I got it off without removing or lifting the engine and I wrote it up here. I guess it's weird that the search feature doesn't work any more.
 

·
Been there Done it
Joined
·
11,257 Posts
The OP has a 2wd. Different frame.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top