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92 dime 4x4
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Discussion Starter #1
Do I really need to pull the motor to replace the oil pan and gasket ? I have not looked around yet but if I do doee anyone know of a write up with pictures and good explanation .?
 

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92 dime 4x4
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Discussion Starter #3
I typed that real quick comepletly forgetting to say I have a 1992 s10 with the 4.3l 5 speed 4x4
 

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Cam,

Unfortunately, the task of pulling a 4.3L on a 4x4 is difficult enough without having to document it and taking pictures. So, I doubt if you'll be successful in finding a write-up with pictures to help you with your task.

When I pulled my 4.3L from my '92 4x4, unlike the 2WD, the motor needs to rise vertically in order for the oil pan to clear the front axle. This vertical movement also requires separating the trans from the motor. In your case, this means not only the trans but also the bellhouse and possibly the clutch. Not sure, because mine is an automatic.

Good luck!
 

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I haven't done it on a 4.3 in a 4x4 s10, but you probably don't need to pull the engine out; drain the oil, put a jack on a board beneath the pan, unbolt the motor mounts, jack up the engine until the transmission hits the floor, and place blocks of wood between the crossmember and the block or exhaust manifolds. Drop the pan; you probably don't even need to pull it off all the way, just enough to swap the gasket. Just be careful you don't jack the distributor into the firewall, or pull wires out of their homes.

The gasket is a one-piece all the way around, so after you snake it around the crankshaft, apply a light bead of silicone to "glue" it to the block, bolt the pan back up, and drop the motor.

I followed this exact same procedure to replace the connecting rods and a piston on the old 307 in my 442; easy as pie. Unlike the Chevy, the Olds pan gasket was 4 piece (2 rubber half-circles at each end, and separate straight pieces down the sides), but even that was doable.

Are you sure you even need an oil pan gasket? Your leaking valve cover gaskets will run oil down the sides of the block, collecting at the flange between the oil pan and the block, giving the impression that your pan is leaking. More likely that not, your front and rear main seals are leaking also giving the impression that your pan gasket is leaking. Those are more complicated than a pan gasket, but should still be able to be done with the engine in the truck.

Are you sure you even need an oil pan gasket? Your leaking valve cover gaskets will run oil down the sides of the block, collecting at the flange between the oil pan and the block, giving the impression that your pan is leaking. More likely that not, your front and rear main seals are leaking also giving the impression that your pan gasket is leaking. Those are more complicated than a pan gasket, but should still be able to be done with the engine in the truck.
 

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92 dime 4x4
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246 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
next time is nice out ill go under the truck and take pictures . also will take pictures of the engine from above. trying to be detailed so you can help me figure out where its leeking from. I do know I need a new oil pan in general the owner before me striped the pan and put in a larger bolt :rant: . then I did an oil change not knowing that and had to put an even larger bolt in . but the larger drain plug I installed has a bolt in the center of it to drian without removing the large bolt. it looks like it drips slowly from the large bolt but im hoping its just not tight enough. anyways ill be back with pictures soon! thanks :rotf:
 

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If memory serves me,the 4x4 is the only s10 you can get the oil pan off without pulling the engine. Requires pulling front diff and steering.
 

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next time is nice out ill go under the truck and take pictures . also will take pictures of the engine from above. trying to be detailed so you can help me figure out where its leeking from. I do know I need a new oil pan in general the owner before me striped the pan and put in a larger bolt :rant: . then I did an oil change not knowing that and had to put an even larger bolt in . but the larger drain plug I installed has a bolt in the center of it to drian without removing the large bolt. it looks like it drips slowly from the large bolt but im hoping its just not tight enough. anyways ill be back with pictures soon! thanks :rotf:
Drain plugs need a copper washer to not leak; or, you can even get a washer with a rubber middle to seal.

You DON'T need to pull the pan to fix that, or even unbolt it, either. Drain the crank case completely. Ream out the hole. Weld a bolt to the outside of the pan, covering the hole. Thread a stubby drain plug or bolt, with copper washer, into that bolt. Voila, instant repair.

If you have oil on the side of the engine ANYWHERE above ~1" above the pan on the block, it isn't your pan gasket leaking. Your valve cover gasketes are toast (they always are!)

If you insist on pulling the pan, before you remove any differentials or steering components, jack up the motor with the transmission attached. I did rod bearings in my 442 and all I had to remove to pull the pan was the engine mount-to-frame bolts on each side of the motor; You might get lucky.
 

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92 dime 4x4
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246 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
its still ass cold here but like i said im going to take pictures and post them. but i have no time lately go to school then home from 20 min then off to work haha. umm ill take pictures on sunday the 1st no matter how cold it is. but yeah i coud probey figure it out with the info provided but i think pics wil help you guys help me :D
 

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I need to replace my rear main, front main, and oil pan gasket while I am down there. Since the oil pan has to come off. Did you unbolt the exhaust manifolds? I am scare to or on the exhaust if the event one snaps. Had that happen on a 95 4.3 4x4 and was not fun drilling and tapping the head. Just need it up enough to get the old gasket off and new on.
 

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Old thread but I am doing my oil pan right now. Same S10 as I posted last.
2003 4.3 ZR2 4x4 Auto 135k. I am doing a Auto to 5 speed conversation. I know my rear main seal leaks and topical valve covers too. I have oil on the passenger side of the motor but some of that is from spilling when filling.

I found out on a 2003 4.3 that you have to remove to oil pan to remove the plate the rear main seal installs to. I was going to replace that upper gasket and RTV the lower. The oil pan could be leaking as the front main seal is not leaking.

I did not remove the motor mounts.

With the transmission out, I used a block of wood and small piece of wood to hold up the right side of the motor up. Drained oil, removed filter (I deleted the oil cooler as I got sick of replacing the lines 2 years ago), removed transmission cooler lines(do not need them anymore too), unbolted the oil pan, removed the cover on the inside of the oil pan that is over the oil pick up tube, removed the oil pick up tube, the front gear will fall, mine had a #6(that was facing up when it was installed), and then removed the oil pan. There is no gasket for the oil pickup tube to the pump. The other gear is on a shaft that connects to the distributor shaft. Turn and rotate and it will go in. You can see topical gunk in the pan. Pick up tube looks good too. Hope this helps some members.

Did take a peek and the cylinders walls look good and cross hashing on it.
 

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Props to you for tackling a challenging job.

As for the cross-hatching on the cylinders seen from below, I trust that you do know that the part of the cylinder (on a non-"stroked" motor) that wears the worst tends to be at the TOP of the cylinder. If visible damage were present at the bottom of the cylinder, you would probably be looking at that cylinder because whatever caused that damage caused the motor to have to be pulled.

Good luck, and be careful, putting it back together. Watch those corners with the pan gasket. Make sure your RTV is good on those corners.
 

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Props to you for tackling a challenging job.

As for the cross-hatching on the cylinders seen from below, I trust that you do know that the part of the cylinder (on a non-"stroked" motor) that wears the worst tends to be at the TOP of the cylinder. If visible damage were present at the bottom of the cylinder, you would probably be looking at that cylinder because whatever caused that damage caused the motor to have to be pulled.

Good luck, and be careful, putting it back together. Watch those corners with the pan gasket. Make sure your RTV is good on those corners.
I am not worried about the motor. That 4.3 is solid. Crud is from I am better low grade oil from the previous 2 owners what I am thinking. I have RTV on hand. Will use spray adhesive to help stick the gasket. Not that bad of a job with the trans out.
 

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Been there Done it
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The OP has a 92 with the tin pan so his will be somewhat different than the later models with the cast aluminum pan as pictured above.
Having the transmission, exhaust and front drive shaft out was probably also a big help. Did make for clearer pics, but might mislead the OP regarding the difficulty of doing it with those parts still in place.
I'm not implying that you were trying to mislead him, but a person asking for a step by step of the procedure needs to understand this is not a project to be taken lightly.
As others have suggested I'd recommend looking for other sources of oil leaks first including checking that the pan bolts are snug. How bad is the leakage? Is the 25 year old engine just dirty or are you leaving puddles?

The aftermarket small plug within a larger one (stripped oilpan repair kit) used to be fairly common and always seem to drip a bit. In reality the amount of oil lost isn't worth mentioning since it only drips a tiny amount. They do make oil changes a tad slow, but tolerable.

What I'm trying to say is don't pull the pan unless absolutely necessary and you have the time, place, weather, tools, and knowledge to put it back together in a reasonable time frame and correctly.

In MN don't even think about it until end of March. Even in a garage, unless you have a serious heater.
 

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10+ 1st Gen 4.3's
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I have a 91 4X4 4.3. I had to R&R the oil pan to change the oil pressure relief spring after an engine rebuild. Everything was clean, and just-installed. I did the pan removal the way the Helms manual says to:
Remove motor mount bolts and raise engine as far as possible; block in position.
Remove front driveshaft at diff.
Remove steering relay link from pittman arm and idler arm. (This allows for next step to work).
Remove diff mounting bolts. Push diff and steering linkage as far forward as possible (about 2-3 inches).
Remove starter, oil lines, torque converter cover.
Remove oil pan bolts. Remove pan.


Pushing the steering linkage and diff forward is enough to get the pan off, if the engine is as high as possible. I've done it. Took less than 4 hours to do the complete job, including fixing the oil pump, laying on my back. No hoist back then.
 

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ZR2 Back yard mechanic
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On what? i know you dont have to on a kenworth t-800 but you have to lift the motor up on a 4x4 s10, be more specific with what you say.
You don't have to lift the motor to pull the pan, but the alternative is a big job, I know I'm in the middle of it right now. I took the whole front end apart and because I did I bought through the internet a complete frontend rebuild kit for $1I0 also suggest that you buy a set of rod cap barings unless yours are like new. So even though it was a lot of extra work and not that much more then lifting a motor witch can be a big pain also. You will end up with a really nice handling ride and this will be all good.
 
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