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Discussion Starter #1
Well as most of you know bout this dang project I got going has a crap load of problems .
Well the oil leak only leaks bad when at high rpms . I always heard that the rear main would leak more at idle than at speed cause it swells or something like that . So where else could it be leaking in the back that it runs right on to exhaust ? I know it is not valve covers , replaced and rechecked . Could it be coming from round Distributor ?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ALso I got a good look at the smoke today that I have posted bout , it is kinda bluish , guess that means new rings huh?
 

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Dizzy or valve cover leaks are probably the most common rear higher rpm oil leaks, but on yours.....
 

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long live italy.
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ALso I got a good look at the smoke today that I have posted bout , it is kinda bluish , guess that means new rings huh?

yeah that blue smoke deffinately means your truck swallowed some dust or the pistons ran a little dry.

Does the smoke go away after the truck runs a bit?

mine smokes a little blue puff when it first starts cold every mornin then goes away because my valve guides are old and let a drop or two of oil drip into my combustion chamber....which=no noticeable difference in oil level between changes. I'm not fixing it until i sell it.
Hopefully you just have some old valve guides my friend!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Only does it some times , some times nothing at all , sometime alot and sometime hardly at all .
So how would I fix if it valve guides ?
 

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Only does it some times , some times nothing at all , sometime alot and sometime hardly at all .
So how would I fix if it valve guides ?
Pull the heads, take em to a machine shop for a valve job and guide replacement. They should also be able to confirm worn valve guides.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bout how much would that run me ? Cause I found a set of heads from a newer model 4.3 like a 93 I think the CPI or whatever engine it is for like $70 a set . Wander if that would be a better route .

Also thinking bout doing a re-ring kit and not doing a rebuild with new pistons . I have a set of rings for a 350 already that I am told will work , so what else would I need besides the gasket kit .
 

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I don't think heads from a CPI will work, but I'm not the expert.
Put the vacuum gauge on it and let it warm up. It might only need a few valve seals. The gauges needle will show it.
A dry and wet compression test will prove which cylinders. You can probably replace the seals for a couple of bucks and less then 3 hours.
Something tells me the the exhust manifolds would be the hardest part of pulling one of your heads.
Start with the simple stuff instead of trying to make it difficult.

Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So try some valve seals huh ?
Will try to pick up a vac gauge this weekend if I can . So how would it show the valve seals are bad ? ANd how do I replace them if they are ? I know alot of questions but I warned you along time ago when we started this project ..lol
I guess when it does get done I will have to make a sign for it that says " Thanks to Bill and Yogi" ...
 

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http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
Look at 5,6,7,8.

The vac guage is seeing the intake vacuum as each cylinder is on it's intake stroke. If everything is right, then at idle you would have a steady needle holding between ~16 to 21lbs.

You will also need a compression gauge and some oil to figure out which cylinders need help and the exact problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You'd need a valve spring compressor and an adapter to put air pressure into a cylinder through the spark plug hole to hold the valves up while you worked on them. Should be able to find at O'Reilly's or AutoZone.
I have all that , a buddy at work that used to be a GM mech gave itto me . He also thinks that is the problem . Said after these motors sit for along time the seal just rots pretty much .
 
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