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Discussion Starter #1
What’s up s10 people

So I know there’s a lot of different post and articles on this but I wanted to pick the brains of the people I take vehicle advice from the most. I was wondering what kind of oil and filter you use? Most of all, why? I personally use Valvoline conventional 5w-30 with a Wix filter. I’m in Iowa where it gets hot so I’m gonna step up to 10w-30. Also, I think I’m gonna step up to a Fram Ultra oil filter. I was doing some research and saw they can filter around 20 microns. The only thing that bothers me is that it’s for a synthetic oil so I’m not sure if it will restrict oil flow with a heavier oil.

Thought....
 

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I'd run what the General suggests for your conditions. Nothing wrong with Wix filters. Fram is most definitely not a step up. Since the new engine went in a few years ago, I've run Mobil1 5W30 and AC filters. I've been criticized for maintaining the oil change interval as wasting money. $30 for an oil change isn't going to break the bank.


BTW...1st engine went 262K on Dino oil, and was still running fine when I swapped.
 

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Oils have come a long way and a good oil that meats your specs will be fine. Fuel management has also made leaps and bounds and the oil isn't getting contaminated from poor combustion. I too use Wix filters and a long time Brad Penn user. Not a fan of Fram filters not to say they haven't gotten better.
 

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What’s up s10 people

So I know there’s a lot of different post and articles on this but I wanted to pick the brains of the people I take vehicle advice from the most. I was wondering what kind of oil and filter you use? Most of all, why? I personally use Valvoline conventional 5w-30 with a Wix filter. I’m in Iowa where it gets hot so I’m gonna step up to 10w-30. Also, I think I’m gonna step up to a Fram Ultra oil filter. I was doing some research and saw they can filter around 20 microns. The only thing that bothers me is that it’s for a synthetic oil so I’m not sure if it will restrict oil flow with a heavier oil.

Thought....
I'll discuss filters here for the 4.3L Vortec V6 engine, since I see more of those.

Wix filters currently offer filtration with beta ratios of 2/20=6/20 for the 51036 and 51040 filters. That means that those filters will block 50% (1/2 pass through) of the 6 micron particles and 95% (1/20 pass through) of the 20 micron particles. Wix gives those filters a "nominal micron rating" of 21 microns. I doubt FRAM publishes a beta ratio specification like that. Those Wix filters also can flow up to 7 to 9 gpm, which is more than the stock oil pump on the 4.3L Vortec V6 can pump.

AC-Delco (and "Genuine GM parts") filters for that application offer filtration that is as good or possibly slightly better than the Wix filters, but the AC Delco PF52E and PF47E will only flow 3gpm. With the Vortec 4.3L V6, the standard oil pump will pump up to about 6gpm at 6,000 RPMs (with a 6,500 RPM red line for the engine). With an AC-Delco filter, you'll be pushing the bypass valve open over 3,500 RPMs or so. That's not really a good thing. Never use an AC-Delco filter on your engine if you've plugged the bypass valve, and I really don't recommend those filters if you're going to spin the thing up near the redline (drag racing, autocrossing, or "track day" use especially). The same flow restrictions apply to the stock AC Delco filters for LS1 engines and for the Vortec V8 engines from the late 1990's. The AC Delco filters won't flow as much oil as the oil pump can pump, and the bypass valve will open, usually under 4,000 RPMs.

I use Wix gold filters just about exclusively now, or Napa Gold (or sometimes CarQuest Blue). The two "house brand" filters are built to the same specs as the Wix gold filters.

For oil, if it's an older engine with roller cam and roller lifters, and it's been run on conventional oil, I generally run conventional oil in it. I prefer Valvoline, but I'll run Napa or O'Reilly house brands (also produced by Ashland Oil, the company that produces Valvoline oils, but with slightly different additives packages for the house brands).

For a fresh rebuild or a newer engine with no worries about washing out gunk from the seals and exposing existing leaks, I run Pennzoil Pure Platinum Full Synthetic. I'll run that oil to 15,000 miles or 12 months, with oil analysis done the first time I do that, just to be sure I'm not using it up before that. However, I always change the oil filter at 3,000 to 4,000 miles. So I'll get 2 or 3 filter only changes in between oil changes. I do drive in dusty environments, and I don't trust filters to have enough dirt holding capacity to last or 15,000 miles if I'm running synthetic oil to a long extended oil change interval.

And for slider cams and flat tappet lifters, I run PennGrade One, which seems to have enough zinc to protect the camshaft(s) in those engines. Sometimes I'll run Rislone with the PennGrade one to add a bit more Zinc, especially if I'm spinning/abusing one of those engines. I've wiped enough lobes off enough camshafts (some Mercedes Benz camshafts that run $600-$1000 each, two per engine) using modern (SL or higher API rated) oils that I no longer trust modern oils in those engines. Those engines also get oil changes every 3,000 miles (or 3 months for "daily drivers," 6 months max for occasional "weekend drivers").
 

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Wix or Donnelson (makes Caterpillar filters) are the best filters to use on engines. Oil as recommended in the above post. I too go 10,000 miles on synthetic oils with filter changes every 4,000 miles and have never had any oil related issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I know how thicker oil can increase oil pressure. If you already have high oil pressure with 5w-30, can you blow seals or mess something up with thicker oil by increasing oil pressure too much?
 

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Thicker oil could also hurt fuel economy, I use Royal Purple 5w40 and the Royal Purple filters as well I have used Royal Purple ever since it has been around with excellent results. I have used synthetic oil ever since Amsoil was the only one around and have never had a problem other than having to replace an occasional seal shortly after changing over on an engine that has run conventional oil. Before Royal Purple started making their own filters I used Wix as they were tested as being the best at the time. Last I heard Wix was making filters for NAPA so they are a good alternative if you can't find Wix. The reason I switched to the Royal Purple filters was when I tried one when they first came out I noticed my oil was staying clean looking longer between changes so they must be doing a good job of trapping the nasties. I have never had an engine fail since I have been using synthetic oil, and I use their gear lube and grease as well. I don't want to replace parts if I can help it so I spend a little extra for quality lube. I don't baby my vehicles either, I run them hard and change oil and filters at 6 months or 6,000 miles whichever comes first. Another tip for 4.3s the larger filter for 4x4s fits fine on a 2wd so that is what I use for the extra capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I’m looking at a Wix 51036XP for my 83 s10 2.8 v6. It says there’s no bypass valve in the filter. I want a filter that has one just in case. Is there another filter someone could suggest that has one?
 

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I’m looking at a Wix 51036XP for my 83 s10 2.8 v6. It says there’s no bypass valve in the filter. I want a filter that has one just in case. Is there another filter someone could suggest that has one?
Your engine has a bypass valve that opens at 11psi pressure differential across the filter. So you don't need a bypass valve in the filter, which is why none of the filters for your engine have a bypass valve.

Only recently has GM moved the bypass valve into the oil filters. Unfortunately, I think all the newer filters with the bypass valves in the filter also use the larger (M22x1.5) pipe threads for the filter. Your engine has a M18x1.5 threaded pipe for the oil filter, so the newer filters won't fit.

I you're concerned about the filters loading up, change the filter between oil changes if you're running synthetics and extended oil change intervals. You can even cut your old filter open and see how full it was with dirt. The "XP" filters from Wix use a polymer filtration media, but the canister is the same size, and the area of the filtration media is the same. The only advantage of the polymer over conventional paper is probably in longer service life due to oil exposure/saturation of the media. The polymer stuff is stronger and lasts longer. I don't think it will hold any more dirt. If you're in a dusty environment, I'd still change the filter between oil changes or extended oil change intervals.


YMMV.
 

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The 4x4 3980 filter fits the 2.8 2WD too.

I've used Frams for many years, and I have never had a problem. Granted, I don't race etc, but I did brutal delivery work in my truck for more than 10 years, so might as well had.

I've also used Purolator etc. I'm sure there are better too, but for regular driving....meh....
 
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