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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996, 2.2 4-Cyl S10 with about 73K miles...

Just recently (like within the past month or so), I noticed a sqeeking noise whenever I am backing up. It speeds up/slows down based on how fast I am moving...plus it doesn't happen if I am in neutral (like if I am backing down a driveway or hill...I just tried that to see if it might be the brakes or something non drivetrain related).

Any thoughts or suggestions?
 

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SoCal Mini-Trucker n FL
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Have someone drive your truck, while your standing outside of it. Then have them put it in reverse, and slowly back up while your listening for the noise. That way you'll have an idea as to where the noise is from, and whats making it.
 

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I have tried that...it is really wierd...It seems to be coming from somewhere near the rear of the truck...but I am not sure...

I think I am gonna have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop to get checked out...


Also, in the last day or two, as it starts to heat up here in Houston, I have been running the AC a lot...noticed a noise whenever the AC is on (not Fan related as the noise only appears whenever the AC is on). It is a rattling, almost drumming kinda noise.

It is worse at idle...and speeds up as the RPMS go up.

Could this be related to the infamouse "tensioner arms" rattle that others have discussed on these boards? Could it simply be the belt?

I am probably going to take the truck into a shop for the wierd reverse squeek reported above and if you guys can help me not to get RAPED by them I'd appreciate it! ;-)

-Eth (Total novice when it comes to cars!)
 

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SoCal Mini-Trucker n FL
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Just don't take it into a Chevy dealer and tell them to fix whatever it is they find. They'll rape you, then after you pay them more than you can afford, as soon as your off the dealers lot, it'll start makin' that sound again. lol!!! So what I'd do is check around with some peeps that you trust, and find out where they'd take their truck if it had the same problem yours does.
 

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Half Deaf at 140dB
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Check the clutch on ur a/c compresser. Have someone turn ur a/c on and off while you watch ur a/c clutch, if it starts when it engages and the sound comes from the compresser, A. a bearing is failing in the clutch or the clutch is sliping or B. your compresser is failing
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Compressor

If indeed it is the compressor that is failing and needs to be replaced, how expensive is that normally?

Is there a lot of other stuff that goes into it? Does the AC system need to be flushed? One mechanic that I talked to and showed the truck to today gave me a song and dance about there probably being "metal" in the system because the rattle is inside the compressor and that means it is probably coming apart...He rattled off about 10 different things that need to be done when you replace the comp, (at which point my eyes glazed over due to information overload)...all to the tune of over $1300 bucks!

Granted, it is my understanding that AC work gets real expensive real fast...I guess my point here is, how can someone like myself who doesn't know much of anything about this stuff know when he is getting a line of BS just to inflate the estimate for the repair?
I am probably going to pay to have another shop (and GASP, perhaps even a Chevy dealer) diagnose the problem just to have a 2nd opinion.

I mean, ok, the compressor is bad, let's assume that is the case: now what?

Sorry to whine away here, but I am a lil frustrated!



Thx!
 

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Half Deaf at 140dB
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A. Take it to a dealer and get it replaced
B. Buy a smaller fan belt dont use the A/C and gain a few hp
ur choice $1300 one way, $10 the other.
 

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Your squeek could be a rear u joint maybe. If you have some miles on the truck it could be worn and need replaced. I don't know if you can grease the stock one. It may not have a grease fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone for the advice!

I just got back from a shop that I had take a look at both issues...

Sure enough, the squeek when driving in reverse was in fact the rear U-Joint. They said it had to be replaced (approx$150).

That is the good news, the bad news is that they claim the AC compressor is failing and the following needs to happen:

Replace the accumulator
Replace the orifice tubing
Flush AC System
Evacuate and Re-Charge System

To do this, they wanted to charge over $1300 bucks...

Any thoughts on this? Is this ballpark for this type of repair?

Thanks again for the help/advice! ;-)


-Eth
 

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SoCal Mini-Trucker n FL
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They're nuts!

Thats way too much money for what they're doing! Don't even go back to that shop. $150.00 for a U-joint is a rip off. And for $1300.00 they should be giving you a 14kt Gold plated Compressor. Call them back and tell them they're trying to rip you off, and that you'll take your business elsewhere. I can't tell you where to take your truck to get it fixed, but I can tell you they're trying to rip you off.
 

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SoCal Mini-Trucker n FL
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They're tryin' to rape you!

Ethereal said:
they wanted to charge over $1300 bucks...

Any thoughts on this? Is this ballpark for this type of repair?
-Eth
I just called the shop we have been using for all our repairs for a few years now, and here's what they told me.

For R+R a U-joint $82.00

For all the A/C work you had the estimate for $200-300.00 max

If you needed a NEW Compressor, and a NEW Condenser, as well as everything else listed above...$1200-1300.00
That's everything to R+R the complete A/C system.

So I hope this helps you to see those other peeps are trying to rip you off big time.
 

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u joint

i have a 98 s10 standard with 72K on it. the noise is definatly your rear U-joint. i know because ive replaced mine twice. i went to Napa and it costed $12. it took about 30minutes to do the whole thing. and it came with an alimite to grease it. the stock ujoint cannot be greased. just dont go back to that shop for something so simple. where it will cost you 30min and $12 vs $180. hope i could help.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I want to thank everyone for their information!

Turns out it indeed was the U-Joint! There are three of them, but at this point only the rear one has worn out and is causing the noises!

Secondly, the AC system did need to be replaced...Basically once the compressor starts to rattle and shake like it was, that means it is failing and coming apart inside...this causes metal contaminants to get into the system which is why the need to replace basically all the main AC components.

I got several quotes and priced the parts at several shopes around here and was finally able to get someone to do the work for about half what I was originally quoted by those idiots who were trying to "bend me over the hood"!

Note: If not for the compressor (approx. $400 refurb or $600 new), the R&R indeed would only cost in the neighborhood of $300 bucks...as it is I paid about $800 total parts, labor...


Thanks again !

-Eth
 
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