[TwinS10s]

I just finished an engine replacement in my '02 2.2L that had sat for a few years. I replaced it with another 2.2 from an '01.

Now I'm trying to get it started and apparently dealing with security system or other issues. I've read what I can find and tried it all.

I'm using what the previous owner swears is the only key she ever used in it. It is a plain, metal key with no plastic, so it can't be a transponder key. I have read everything from people saying "None of the S-series ever had a transponder key" to "Yes it's a transponder key and you have to go to the dealer" and everything in between.

When I connect the battery, the security light is not on.

I have tried turning the key on and waiting 10 minutes for it to go off, to start the first of the 3 steps, but the light doesn't go off after 10 minutes.

I can try starting it, and it will start but go dead after running for a second, then I leave the key on and the security light doesn't go off after 10 minutes.

I'm at a loss. Can any of you guys help?

 

[oldeerslayer]

S10's never had transponder keys. The anti theft chip in in the key tumbler.
Sounds like you have triggered the VATS and it simply needs to be reset.
Follow the instructions to the letter.

Passlock Relearn

You have to do a security relearn between the BCM and the chip in your new switch. Best to do this outside during the day so your automatic headlights don't run the battery down by being on for 30 minutes. Passlock – coded lock cylinder The Passlock anti-theft system requires the presence of a...

www.s10forum.com

 

[TwinS10s]

Thanks!

That is what I had surmised, to this point. I am to the point where I believed that it was the passlock system with the security lock cylinder. Unfortunately, that is one of the methods that I have tried. It hasn't worked so far.

When it says "attempt to start engine," should I just bump the starter, or actually start it? I ask because it will start and run for about a second or less before going dead. It's not like I can turn it over a few seconds for an attempted start without it starting at all.

And, if it helps, my diagnostic plug is completely dead. It doesn't even power up my scanner. I tried it just to see if it showed me any codes.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Check the fuse for the cigarette lighter.

 

[aitch]

Check the fuse for the cigarette lighter.

Oh man, you beat me by a few nano seconds. Curses!
.

 

[TwinS10s]

Success...well, partially.

It was the lighter fuse. Now I have power to my scanner, but it gives me a "linking error."

I'm trying, again, the reset procedure. I disconnected the battery, then reconnected it to start with "clean slate."

This time, I tried just bumping the starter, but not letting it start. I'm waiting the 10 minutes to see if the security light goes off. If this doesn't work, I'll try another battery disconnect, then actually let it start for the second or so, and go dead on its own.

But I think I've been through it both ways, several times, and the light never turns off.

 

[TwinS10s]

Update: Now, my scan tool is working and I'm showing no trouble codes. I don't know if I didnt have it inserted firmly enough or what, but it seems to work now.

But I still can't get the security light off. When I reconnect the battery and turn the key on, the light will come on for about a second, as if it is going through its test mode, then turn off for about a second, then turn back on and stay on as long as I have the battery connected. It does the same if I try to start it. And it never goes off. I have follower the reset instructions to a "T" multiple times.

One question: does it matter if there is a radio in the truck? There is currently not one, at all. The previous owner had an aftermarket radio and kept it.

But the headlights work, the blower fan works, the dash lights work, everything. It's as if everything except the security system works.

This is super frustrating. Is there a way to just get rid of the goofy security interlock? I mean, I paid $150 for the whole truck. I have the title to it. I didn't steal it. I don't care about a security system. I just want it to run and drive.

Any ideas on where to look next?

 

[oldeerslayer]

Not having a radio should not matter unless the wiring is hacked. If it was done with a plug and play adapter and is simply unplugged there should not be any issues.
Does the truck have a keyless remote or remote start that is not GM?
When doing the relearn, is the light always on and after 10-15 minutes into each segment it does not turn off?
There are ways to hack the VATS and bypass it. Most involve cutting wires and adding a resistor. I've always considered that opening another can of worms. If it's not working now and you start rewiring the truck you could also make if worse if there is a problem with the BCM, PCM or the wiring.
You tube has a ton of videos on how to do the hack. If you go that route and it doesn't work, you're on your own at that point. Once you start altering the security system it would be impossible for someone else to figure out the problem.
One thing you could take a look at is the connectors to your BCM under the floor heating duct on the tunnel under the dash. Make sure the connectors are all plugged in, undamaged, and not corroded.

 

[TwinS10s]

I believe it was just a plug and play aftermarket radio that was removed. The connector for it is still there, and the harness doesn't look altered.
I know there is no aftermarket remote, because it is a basic truck with no power windows or power locks.

The only time the security light is off is when I reconnect the battery after disconnecting it. Then, before I turn on the key or attempt to start it, the light is off. If I turn the key on or try to start it, the security light will come on, then go off for maybe a second, then come back on permanently. It never goes off after waiting the 10 minutes, or anything else. It will be on until I disconnect the battery again.

Is there a way to check the BCM? One possible issue may be that the BCM has been wet. The previous owner had this truck flood. I know that is not conducive to getting it back running, but I really thought this truck would be OK. But, the lights, dash lights, blower, and things work.

 

[aitch]

..........The previous owner had this truck flood. ..........

Well, there's a 'little' detail that would have been nice to include in the initial post.

 

[TwinS10s]

Well, there's a 'little' detail that would have been nice to include in the initial post.

Yeah, I really knew that, but it was a strategically planned move.

I knew that if I said that, anybody reading it would just dismiss it as a junk truck and wouldn't want to help me. But I really thought this truck would be ok. I wouldn't be investing this much of my time and wasting time of any of the folks on here if I thought it a hopeless case. It didn't sit on the bottom of a river for a month or anything.
But now that the cat's out of the bag, it will probably be crickets for responses from now on.

 

[aitch]

Yeah, I really knew that, but it was a strategically planned move.

I knew that if I said that, anybody reading it would just dismiss it as a junk truck and wouldn't want to help me. But I really thought this truck would be ok. I wouldn't be investing this much of my time and wasting time of any of the folks on here if I thought it a hopeless case. It didn't sit on the bottom of a river for a month or anything.
But now that the cat's out of the bag, it will probably be crickets for responses from now on.

Well, that's definitely one "strategic" approach. Don't be so certain about the post 'being dismissed' due to that fact. It seems like most members are appreciative when all the cards are on the table, as every 'clue' can be helpful. Occasionally a member (including myself) has overlooked or simply forgot to include a relevant piece of information. BTW, glad to hear the truck wasn't totally submerged (that would have really complicated matters)! What was the extent of the water intrusion, how long, and where?

 

[oldeerslayer]

Go to a junk yard and find another 02-04 (only those 3 years) S10 and take the BCM. If it's from a more upscale truck that won't matter. it'll just have things programmed to work that you don't have. All we're concerned with is getting it to start. Don't even think about new. They're around $150 for a reman (same as you paid for the truck) + close to that much to have it programmed to your vin. You will need to do the relearn, again. 😕
Have you unplugged the BCM and cleaned all the electrical connectors? Might just be a corrosion issue. Try CRC Lectra-Motive® Electric Parts Cleaner. Shop a bit as it can be priced from $8 (Fleetfarm) to $18 (Autozone)

 

[TwinS10s]

Wow, you mean I can swap in a BCM from another truck? I was thinking that probably wouldn't work because of a VIN mismatch between it and the PCM, or something.
If that works, I may be set. No need for the junkyard - I have a known good BCM in my engine-donor truck (totaled from a rear end hit).
I have the good PCM from it too, if that turns out to be an issue, although I don't think it will be. But the donor is a 5 speed and the (hopefully) good one is an auto, so I'm assuming it may not support the trans control.

 

[TwinS10s]

Aarrrgggh!

Now I just realized something: my wrecked truck is an '01. I guess that's an no-go, right? It has to be a 2, 3, or 4?

 

[oldeerslayer]

According to Rockauto the same BCM was used from 02-04. 01 had a different part number.
19208537

CADILLAC	ESCALADE	2002
CHEVROLET	ASTRO	2002-2005
CHEVROLET	AVALANCHE 1500	2002
CHEVROLET	AVALANCHE 2500	2002
CHEVROLET	BLAZER	2002-2005
CHEVROLET	S10 PICKUP	2002-2004
CHEVROLET	SILVERADO 1500	2002
CHEVROLET	SILVERADO 2500	2002
CHEVROLET	SILVERADO 3500	2002
CHEVROLET	SUBURBAN 1500	2002
CHEVROLET	SUBURBAN 2500	2002
CHEVROLET	TAHOE	2002
GMC	JIMMY	2002-2005
GMC	SAFARI	2002-2005
GMC	SIERRA 1500	2002
GMC	SIERRA 2500	2002
GMC	SIERRA 3500	2002
GMC	SONOMA	2002-2004
GMC	YUKON	2002
GMC	YUKON XL 1500	2002
GMC	YUKON XL 2500	2002

19208539

CHEVROLET	ASTRO	2001
CHEVROLET	BLAZER	2001
CHEVROLET	S10 PICKUP	2001

The relearn should cure the issue with swapping in a different one. That's what's it's for.

 

[TwinS10s]

Success!! Well, partially.
I swapped in the BCM from my engine donor truck. As you can see, the part number isn't the same. But the original BCM part number wasntbwhat Rockauto lists, either. Here are the 2. The one from the 01 GMC is installed in this picture, with the original sitting beside it. They looked the same, and the connectors were the same, so I figured why not try it. What's the worst that could happen? It explodes into a mushroom cloud?
As soon a I hooked up the battery, I could tell something was different. The door chime started dinging and the automatic headlights came on. They had not worked earlier.

So the relearn was successful and the security light is off. You guys are some S10 gurus. Thanks!

Of course, now I seem to have an issue with power to the fuel pump. So, it's on to the next problem, now.

 

[desertpatriot]

Check/swap the fuel pump relay under the hood in the black plastic fuse box.