S-10 Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ight guys I need auto help. I have a 88 Chevy S10 with the 2.5 liter 4 banger. I've done a lot of research and spent a lot of time on it this weekend.

I have no fuel from the injector. If fuel is added it will run. Now in all my research I've found that the single injector gets a grounded pulse to turn it on. It gets that signal from the distributor.

I feel like in all my testing Saturday and Sunday I've come down to the ignition control module or the pickup coil. My question is what is a fail safe way to test these components?

I tested that everything is getting signals from the ECM but the test I found and did I don't think it gave me a proper answer. I've heard autozone can test some of these parts but I don't know what all they can test.

At this point any knowledgeable help would be welcome. I've spent most my time working on newer distributor less systems and am slightly unfamiliar with distributors but not completely unaware of how to work on one.
 

·
the new guy
Joined
·
901 Posts
I saw that from the other threads. it makes it hard to find the fix when people don't come back if they get a fix, or let you know what didn't work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I am helping a friend with the same problem. We thought it was bad gas at first because of what was happening at the start, it would randomly run rough or have hard time starting and then get going again and he described it as being fuel starved. Since the truck hasn't been maintained and we live in the south we changed the tank filter injector and regulator after cleaning all the hard lines thoroughly. Then when trying to fire it up i noticed the injector did not spray that much and really only sprayed when turning the key off. After reading some online posts we took the dissy cap off and cleaned up the as much of the rust / corrosion as we could and it made the injector fire off much better but the truck still wont start. we have ordered the Hall effect sensor as that was the most recommended replacement. It is supposed to be here Monday. I will post back and let you know if that helps. In the mean time did you find a solution to your issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have replaced or tested all the distributor parts and replaced them all with no effect thus far. I've been told fuel pressure even though the pump runs and possibly the ecm being bad.

This is a very common issue after these trucks sit. I'm sure there should be a simple solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I am helping a friend with the same problem. We thought it was bad gas at first because of what was happening at the start, it would randomly run rough or have hard time starting and then get going again and he described it as being fuel starved. Since the truck hasn't been maintained and we live in the south we changed the tank filter injector and regulator after cleaning all the hard lines thoroughly. Then when trying to fire it up i noticed the injector did not spray that much and really only sprayed when turning the key off. After reading some online posts we took the dissy cap off and cleaned up the as much of the rust / corrosion as we could and it made the injector fire off much better but the truck still wont start. we have ordered the Hall effect sensor as that was the most recommended replacement. It is supposed to be here Monday. I will post back and let you know if that helps. In the mean time did you find a solution to your issue?
Have you found a solution yet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
So an update.

I've now replaced the injector also. Trying to get it to fire. I defentally have fuel at the injector it's wet now. So I believe timing is now my issue and I hope to post an update on it running in the next couple days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well my final update!!

I ended up changing out my fuel pressure regulator. It had a small leak and that fixed it.

Got my timing back in. It had been a long time since I set a distributor so I skipped a couple teeth going back in and had to set the engine back to top dead center. Got it back in time only to be in still a no start issue.

Final part to anything is always the fuel pump. Harbor Freight has a kit that can test the fuel pressure for 120 bucks. The fuel pump itself for me was 35 bucks plus a 11 dollar pickup screen. So I just figured save money just replace the pump.

I did take the bed off to change the pump.

Got everything hooked back up and she fired up first start!!!!!

So after a full rebuild on the distributor, new fuel pump, new injector, and a lot of sweat and bloody knuckles this baby runs!!!

I would suggest starting at the fuel pump if you can pour a little gas in the throttle body and get it to fire!!!
 

·
Been there Done it
Joined
·
7,825 Posts

<$12

334744
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Glad you found it. I pushed new parts at my truck before I found that the pressure regulator was one of my root causes. It actually ran fine in the lower ranges but upper end was much to be desired. At least now I have a totally redone system sensors and all...
 

·
Boozebag
Joined
·
9,142 Posts
Hmmm... First thing to do is check the fuel pump. Guess you learned the hard (EXPENSIVE) way.
One suggestion - change the fuel filter also.
It is on the left side of the frame rail just behind the cab. It is one of the most overlooked parts that require regular changes (at 15 to 20K miles).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Hmmm... First thing to do is check the fuel pump. Guess you learned the hard (EXPENSIVE) way.
One suggestion - change the fuel filter also.
It is on the left side of the frame rail just behind the cab. It is one of the most overlooked parts that require regular changes (at 15 to 20K miles).

Expensive yes but all those parts need replaced anyway. Had it running about a week before the distributor died again too. Injector was falling apart from corrosion and ended up throwing the water pump after 2 days of the new distributor. Still runs a little rough and diesels shortly when it shuts off. So everything I've done and I still don't have it 100%. All in all I've spent less than 400 bucks. Not very expensive compared to newer vehicles at all.

Also, fuel filter is not on the frame, it is on the firewall.
 

·
Boozebag
Joined
·
9,142 Posts
Also, fuel filter is not on the frame, it is on the firewall.
Oops, sorry.
My 2.5 rigs have it on the frame rail. I guess they moved it on the newer S10s.
I have one earlier S 10 - pre 1990, and it is on the back of the engine - which is a total PIA to replace.

A suggestion: you may have a vacuum leak somewhere. If you have A/C, ck the vacuum reservoir ball located at the left front lower radiator support. They tend to crack with age.
Also check vacuum hoses. They were not made of the best rubber.
A vacuum leak may be your cause of running erratically.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top