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Discussion Starter #1
Having a little trouble with my truck today. I went to start it up to head to class and she wouldn't crank. I had lights but no crank. I took the battery to the auto parts store and it tested good, so I got a starter to throw in. Old one was original to the truck anyways and I've been meaning to replace it for a while. After putting in the new starter, I'm still in the same boat. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I'm not sure where to go from here.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I jumped the starter with a screwdriver and got the truck running. Once it's started, it runs and drives perfectly fine. So, I guess the starter isn't getting signal to crank? I've searched through my FSM but haven't been able to find troubleshooting for a no crank condition. What systems have to communicate to send the crank signal to the starter?

Edit: Might be worth it to mention that twice last week, I had the same no-crank issue, but I was able to start the truck both times after waiting a couple minutes and trying again. I have not been able to crank itself since yesterday morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I discovered something tonight which may or may not be related to the no crank issue. Over the past couple of weeks, I thought I've been seeing my headlights occasionally dim ever so slightly for a split second, but it was never dimmed enough or for long enough for me to say it was a problem and not myself going crazy. On my way home from work tonight, multiple times lasting upwards of 10+ seconds, my headlights dimmed almost completely out, my wipers slowed to a crawl, and the radio cut out. Dash lights also dimmed extremely. However, the engine was not effected. I could drop a gear and do pulls perfectly fine, while not having lights, wipers, or radio. One would think that, being a connected system, that the spark would cut out if the rest of the power cut out. I still haven't figured out the no crank situation, and I'm not sure if these two issues are related or not. Any thoughts or ideas?
 

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Since it is an S10 the first thing I would check is all of the cables connected to the battery on BOTH ends for a loose connection or rust or corrosion. Could be a simple as a cable getting loose or rusty. Quite common.
The ignition draws no where near the current required by the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sat here and thought about it for a bit, and decided that I should probably take the alternator to get tested in the morning and that the two issues are likely not related.

The ignition draws no where near the current required by the starter.
Definitely wouldn't hurt to take a wire brush to the cable ends. But, if the starter wasn't getting enough current from the battery cable, wouldn't jumping the starter not work?
 

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if the starter wasn't getting enough current from the battery cable, wouldn't jumping the starter not work?
That does sound more like your starter solenoid is going. Sometimes it works, sometimes not is telling you it's time. But before you spend the bucks check the cables.
 

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Those would be the first to wires to check. That small one breaks right at the terminal a lot during R&R. Have you tried pulling up on the brake and clutch pedal when it won't start. Either of those safety switches could be going bad.
1st gens didn't have a very sophisticated starter wiring system.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thursday after class, I jumped the starter, and it wouldn't stay running long enough for me to get back inside. It sounded fine when it started, didn't sound like a miss or anything. It was as if the key got turned off and the engine was shutting off. Got it towed home (thanks AAA) and got to work cleaning the ground and power connections, as well as checking the small wire on the starter. Everything seemed ok, but she still wouldn't crank. Did some thinking and the only thing I could come up with was the ignition switch. I thought perhaps the crank position on the switch went, and then maybe the run position followed or is on its way out. The new switch came in today, and after replacing it, I'm still in the same no crank boat.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did some poking around with the multimeter today. 12.4 volts at the battery. 12.4 volts at the power to the starter. .03 volts to the starter signal wire with someone inside turning the key. I'm guessing it's supposed to be 12.4 volts. I followed the signal wire to the firewall where it enters the cab and it looks fine, I couldn't find any broken insulation or the like. I tried cleaning the ring connector with a wire brush and still only read .03 volts. Might end up taking it to my mechanic this week if I can't get it sorted out.
 

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buy a new ring connector and replace the end off wire- cut it back till you get shiney copper- sounds like wire is rotted inside,
 

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check fuses- diag from deerslayer shows a crank fuse before a relay- check voltage before and after relay also... so far you stated change bat,starter,now wire end, primary power ok- but no joy on start circuit when key turned to start- definately in the wiring or the relay or fuses
 

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should be on firewall- what year?
 

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91 no starter relay. Solenoid does the same thing.

Back in January you stated
I found a short coming from the starter solenoid. Also I bought some good battery terminal clamps and made solid connection to the wires and she's all better.
Care to tell us more about that? Pics? Sounds related.
Is this truck auto or stick? If it's manual check the clutch safety switch.
 

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After thinking about this for awhile, if there was a short to ground back in Jan. anywhere along that purple wire from the Ignition switch to the solenoid it's a very real possibility that somewhere inside that wire or at a connector the actual copper strands are all but melted away.
I'd try running a new wire as heavy or heavier than the original from the ignition switch terminal S to the solenoid. Bet that cures your problem.
You could try a long jumper with alligator clips first to test the theory.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I don't recall having a short from the solenoid in the past, are you sure that was me?

I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try running a new wire from the solenoid to the switch to find out if the the wire is fried somewhere.
 
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seymourj98
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