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Asphault Assasin
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Discussion Starter #1
i have no freakin clue whats going on but everytime i hit a bump my pedal pulses and i hear a noise and my brakes get all f***ed up??? please tell me if this is normal or how to fix it??? its a '01 s-10???? HELP:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :cry:
 

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Those are your Anti-Lock Brakes pumping your brakes for you. It's perfectly normal. They're designed to give more power to the brakes on the wheels losing control when you hit the bump that shocks them.
 

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Asphault Assasin
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
phew!

well i am glad its normal....but it still sux! geez why would they make a system that doesnt allow you to press your brakes when u stop, i've used ABS on my old cars but its wierd teh way that works...i probably wouild have never noticed if i wasnt trying to stop short hit a bump yesterday and almost broadsiided a minivan...oh well guess that is just the way it is
 

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no fat GUYS, truck will scrape
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yeah, mine does the same thing. It sucks, but you get used to it I guess. :rolleyes: :bah:
 

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ABS Brakes

:madfinger

I have the same problem with braking on bumps, I don't see how the ABS is a good thing. Is there any way to fix that? Maybe take the ABS brakes out and install new ones???????
It drives me nuts, I've had 2 accidents due to this problem.
 

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Professional Insultant
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5,920 Posts
How fast are you going over them? I go over speed bumps with the brakes on and it does that too, it doesn't take your brakes away, just gives them the most power without sliding. Could brake before or after, or just coast a little to a stop over speed bumps/bumps in the road. It only does it when the bump is big enough to make the suspension gets close full extent and the tires lose weight/traction on them.

I'd still much rather have the ABS even though it does do stuff like that, here in Idaho, in a place like california, I could see why people may take it out, but rain can be just as bad sometimes.
 

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Re: ABS Brakes

Bluv69k said:
:madfinger

I have the same problem with braking on bumps, I don't see how the ABS is a good thing. Is there any way to fix that? Maybe take the ABS brakes out and install new ones???????
It drives me nuts, I've had 2 accidents due to this problem.
Easiest way to fix it is to pull the fuse. the ABS light will come on, but your brakes will work like normal
 

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355 member
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13,485 Posts
mine almost sounds like a grinding and the pedal goes down further. I knew it was normal but you're right it is annoying. Now there's places I have to hit the brakes a little harder cause I wait to go over the bump. Hard to explain I guess
 

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I Like Fire....HaHaHa
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5,297 Posts
TokoDragon said:
How fast are you going over them? I go over speed bumps with the brakes on and it does that too, it doesn't take your brakes away, just gives them the most power without sliding. Could brake before or after, or just coast a little to a stop over speed bumps/bumps in the road. It only does it when the bump is big enough to make the suspension gets close full extent and the tires lose weight/traction on them.

I'd still much rather have the ABS even though it does do stuff like that, here in Idaho, in a place like california, I could see why people may take it out, but rain can be just as bad sometimes.
Not exactly, sort of right. The ABS unit performs the function of pumping the brakes when sliding. Goes on the old theory of pumping your brakes manually (non-abs) when sliding. You know, the school of thought that when sliding you shouldn't stand on the brakes cause it makes the slide get progressively worse. Same thing here. The ABS unit does the pulsing for you. IF, the brakes were recieving full brake power it would slide. So there is no "full brake power without sliding" like you mentioned. This is congruent with the physical pulse you feel in the pedal.

To remove the ABS permanently, you need to "T" the front callipers together and install a 2 psi residual valve and a metering valve. The 2 psi residual valve can be seen on your front brakes by looking for a fitting that resembles a union fitting. This is not the case though. This fitting is actually the residual valve. The residiual valve applies a constant 2psi of pressure to the front calipers to keep air forced out of the system should there be a seal leak at the caliper piston. Consequently, you must replace the 10psi residual valve for the rear which looks the same and is located on the driver side frame rail just under the firewall. Serves the same function. The metering valve holds the front brake circuit from working momentarily so that the rear drums can expand and compensate for the spring lash in the rear drums. In theory, the metering valves allow all brakes to act at the same time. Think of it as the "Timing" mechanism of the brakes systems.

The metering valve and the proportioning valves are located inside the ABS unit. They must be replaced. You can buy all these valves seperately and stack them on the brake line one after the other or you can buy them built into the master cylinder. Shop around.

I bought CPP's MCPV-1 master cylinder. It has the RPVs, meter valve, power valve, and double adjustable proportioning valve along with the fluid resevior built into one. This will give you the cleanest, hastle free construction of building your brake system. It also has a 1" bore.

The stock bore is .975". This being slightly larger allows for greater pressure applied to the circuits without having to press harder on the pedal. Basically, moving more volume for a given push of the pedal. This equates to several hundred pounds greater force applied for the same given push of the pedal.

Here are a couple pics of my setup. Make note of the clean install off the master cylinder. No more, coils of brake line. The ABS unit reduces some weight also and clreans the area up when removed. Also notice the "T" on the frame rail near the shock. That is the front circuit. Notice the other union just behind it. That is the rear circuit.

Here are the specs for the OEM brakes.

Front brake lines = 1/4 steel or 4AN

Rear brake lines = 1/4 steel or 4AN

Rear lines on axle = 3/16 steel or 3AN







 

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I Like Fire....HaHaHa
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5,297 Posts
rmrider said:
i made a post about this months ago and how dangerous it is. search for it if you like, everyone has the same problem :(
Whats dangerous? Removing the ABS or the ABS itself?
 

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I Like Fire....HaHaHa
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5,297 Posts
nox said:
i always thought it was because the ass end doesnt weigh anything so you hit a bump and the rear comes up off the ground a bit, the wheels lock because there is no force spinning them and you come back down and they slide a bit. :dunno:
I'm sure that has something to do with it that causes or initiates the skid, but the pulsing you feel in the brakes is the ABS's function for controlling the skid. Unfortunately, the moment the ABS identifies a skid, the brakes are released momentarily which increases braking distance rather than reducing it. A well trained driver with good reactionary skills will know what the car is doing and pulse the brakes as he needs in order to control the situation. I'd bet the well trained guy would out do an ABS unit any day.
 

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Full Size Chevy
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pulsing scares me lmao. I hate it. My jeep didnt have it, and i loved it.
 

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get laid/commit suicide
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3,219 Posts
you could just unplug the wire on the abs or pull the fuse like someone else said
then you can always plug it back in latter
 

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the abs itself is messed up. it does not work properly, like it does in other vehicles i have driven. even still in the winter I can stop faster with my dad vehicle with no abs than I can with our other vehicles with them. then again the purpose is not to stop faster, but to maintain control while under heavy braking. either way the units in our truck suck and they are hazardous
 

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I Like Fire....HaHaHa
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5,297 Posts
rmrider said:
the abs itself is messed up. it does not work properly, like it does in other vehicles i have driven. even still in the winter I can stop faster with my dad vehicle with no abs than I can with our other vehicles with them. then again the purpose is not to stop faster, but to maintain control while under heavy braking. either way the units in our truck suck and they are hazardous
Agreed. I've almost bought it a couple times too with rain or snow slicked surfaces. Never again. I tore that bitch out.
 
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