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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Today I started it again and let it heat up. At first it idled like crap. After a few minutes, it started to sound better. With my temp gun, I kept checking the temp. It wouldn’t get to normal operating temp. After about 5-7 minutes, it started to stumble. I looked at the dash and the check engine light was on. I shut it off and pulled the codes. Got code 15 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Error (Low Temp Indicated).
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I figured this might have to do with the thermostat. Pulled the housing and there was no thermostat. Cleaned off the gasket and housing. I also pulled the rad cap and it was nasty (brown). The smart guy who owned it before me filled it with water and let it sit so it’s probably a little rusty inside.
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I ran to Walmart and got a flush and fill kit and that’s tomorrow’s fun.
I’m gonna order a Stant Superstat 195 degree (45349) from rockauto. I know my 83 runs a 193 degree. Is it the same for this 85? I checked the manual and I didn’t see it in the Cooling System section.

@jimmykicker What I was trying to point out in the photo was not the EGR valve. I’m talking about that silver thing screwed into the engine just below the EGR valve and in front of the distributor.
I’m pretty sure the green or grey connector is for a dwell meter to connect. I’m guessing it’s the grey one. Still not sure tho🤔, hahaha.

I was looking at the AC section of the manual. I think the black and yellow wires are for the AC but I’m not sure yet.

@MyWorkInProgress Thanks! I didn’t get to it today but hopefully tomorrow. It’s crazy dirty under the cowl. Hopefully it didn’t cause rust. That would suck!

last question - I was wonder I how you guys go about repairing wires that have been cut (not entirely cut but 95% of the way). I have one that’s cut about an inch away from a connector that needs to be repaired. I was gonna solder the wire and cover it with heat shrink but I’m not sure it’ll be good enough.
So yeah, got a couple things I’m not sure what they do, what degree thermostat do I need, and wire repair?

Thanks guys, it’s almost rolling!!!
 

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1994 GMC Jimmy SLE, 2010 Cadillac STS
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I’ve always ran 180 thermostats in all my trucks. I ran a 160 in my ‘85 Blazer once in 2013-14, then we had that polar vortex hit and the heater wasn’t able to beat the -5 degree weather so I went back to a 180. Still had to do the ol’ cardboard over the rad trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Flushed the cooling system a few times today. Didn’t get any coolant in it because I’m not really sure what temp thermostat to use. Used a 195 and it ran anywhere from 190-220.

Kept letting it run for about 10 minutes during the flushing and the check engine light kept coming on. Same code each time, code 15. I’m not sure what the problem is yet but did find this in my manual.

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I’m not exactly sure what most of this means yet. I only looked at it for a quick sec. I do, however, know what the yellow and black wires are for now (see previous post). They connect to the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Tomorrow or the next day I’ll try to plug it in and see what happens. Hopefully it turns off the code.

The thing that really confuses me! - The EFE Switch goes in the intake manifold right next to the thermostat. So, where does the Coolant Temperature Sensor go? As of now, the Coolant Temperature Sensor is located where the EFE Switch goes.

Figure one thing out to find another things out of place. Learning a lot here.

To wrap up the day:
-if anyone knows the correct temp thermostat, let me know. I’d like to close up the system and have that done.
-I guess putting the Coolant Temp Sensor in the correct spot would be a good start to that problem. Anyone?

I have a busy day tomorrow (got a big job interview) so won’t be able to get much work in but will probably have time to look at the manual to try to figure this out.

Thanks for the help s10 people,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Today I flushed the cooling system a few times again. Then flushed it with distilled water, drained it, and filled it with coolant.

Also plugged in the coolant temperature sensor. I looked at the manual and the CTS is where the EFE Switch is supposed to be but that’s for another day.

I let it run for about 20 minutes. No check engine light. It ran about 220 once but not higher. I’m pretty sure it’s good on the overheating point. I need to drive it and decide if I want to go with a 180 thermostat.

So the yellow and black wire do go to the coolant temp sensor. I called the previous owner an idiot like five times during this post. I take ONE back. It’s in the wrong spot but it’s fine.

One thing I’ve noticed is that the carb stays open (where air sucks in) and the vacuum (primary) and choke doesn’t do anything. Is that supposed to happen? It stays that way when it’s cold and hot.
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other than that, I think I just need to adjust the kick down cable and It’s good to go. The transmission leak I thought I fixed didn’t actually get fixed so I’ve gotta look at that. I did slow down so I’m guessing I did something wrong when installing the gasket.

Good Times!
 

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‘95 LS 2.2L Manual
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Standard temp thermostat is 192, alternate is 180. I’d go standard temp and if you run in to overheating issues try the 180.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Hey...not sure what that thing is on the intake then man...Been so long since my truck had a stock carbed manifold, I don't even remember much about it. Heck, I did the 4bbl conversion 15 years ago next month, and the EFI swap over 7 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
What’s up everyone,

I ended up getting an offer out of that job interview so I’m gonna be kicking this project into high gear. The question asking is going to get annoying. Sorry in advance.

Today I pulled off the cowl and vacuumed all the junk under it.
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Took some digging around but managed to get it all out.

I was looking at the wipers and couldn't get them to work. The sprayer wouldn't work either. It's a bummer but I need to take care of more pressing matters first.

I need to adjust the TV cable. I was watching videos on youtube and have a good idea of how it works so I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

What else should I be looking at? I've driven it before and it seemed fine but was wondering what I could be missing.

The temp gauge isn't working so I wanted to throw on an aftermarket one to make sure it isn't overheating. However, there's a plug in the head that I can't get out. The photo below is where the factory location is (driverside/front). The previous owner swapped the heads when putting them back on so now the temp sensor is in the passenger head towards the firewall.
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I tried different size socket extensions and they don't fit the hole. I went to napa and the guy didn't know what to use and didn't have anything to suggest. Anyone ever have a plug that is this weird size and know how to get it out?

The passenger headlight doesn't work. The high beam does tho. Is this likely a bad headlight or something to do with the wiring?

I'm gonna take her for a drive tomorrow and I'll see how it goes. Hopefully any problems show themself and I can get working on them.

@jimmykicker I'm starting to understand why you guys swap out original parts from these things. A bunch of parts are unavailable or hard to find. If you just swap a motor, carb, etc, you get more power while not having to spend time and money extra money on a part that was originally only $10.

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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The plug is most likely metric. Looks like you're going to have to get in there and get all of the paint out to get a tight fit with whatever size bit it takes.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I’m having a hard time setting the kick down cable. The original setting shifted at about 10mph with slow acceleration. I pulled it way out (away from firewall) and it shifter about the same with less slamming into gears as hard. I figured this was way too loose so I pushed it in about 3/4 in (towards the firewall). It shifted at about 12mph at slow acceleration and 15 at high acceleration but it still hit hard into gear.

I feel there isn’t very much change in the speed when it switches gear when adjusting the cable.

Here’s a video I found on the tube. A’m I able to drop the pan and adjust it the same way?

I’m not exactly sure what I’m looking for. What’s the best way to do this? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Took a closer look at the passenger headlight yesterday. Used a test light on the driver side see what prongs lit up and what ones didn't. When I tested the passenger side, no light on any of the prongs lit up. I noticed it had a different prong as well. My four guesses are - 1) there's a damaged wire between the two lights (the driver light is connected to the passenger light with wires that go through the grill). 2) The connector the guy put in is wrong or he didn't set it up correctly. 3) The light itself is bad. 4) The right and left side are controlled by different things and something is bad.
I have a new light coming and I'm gonna poke around more today. I'll post more photos as well. Let me know if you have any ideas of what it could be.

I pulled the wiper motor as well. After testing the plug from the harness with the test light, I determined it was a bad motor (I'm pretty sure). I even took off the motherboard from the wiper motor and poked it with the test light. Things lit up and moved around. I'm pretty sure the motor is just frozen.
Looked at a new wiper motor online and damn there expensive. I'll get one eventually but I'll wait till I can find a good deal. Plus, there's a bunch of different brands and I'm not sure which one to get.

Other than that, the kick down cable is adjusted. I'm gonna have my mechanic uncle look at it and see what he says. I know it can be sketchy to drive around with it not right.

I have a 180-degree thermostat coming. It's running a little hot so I figured might as well try it.

Gotta go work on the truck. I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes!

Later!
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Update on the lights.

I pulled the front housings and found there are no bulbs in the blinkers.
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I’m gonna replace them and go from there.
I also switched the headlights and I’m pretty sure the high beam on one is bad. I’m hoping the one I ordered has the high beam function.

In the back everything works but the white strip on the bottom. I think there reverse lights.
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I pulled the housings and found one was melted.
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I’m pretty sure it melted because someone put in the wrong bulb. The bulb on the other side is the fatter round style. As of now, I think it’s just gonna have to be replaced.

Also, I found this page about the TV Cable in the manual. Pretty much tells you how to adjust it. Followed it and should be test driving it shortly. It was only a click or two differences from where I had it.

Thats all for now,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I got the front side blinkers working.

What’s giving me problems is the front passenger light in the bumper. It works as a blinker but doesn’t work when the headlights are on. The passenger headlight doesn’t work ether. I’m not sure it the problems are correlated.
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I cleaned the connector out and out fresh bulb grease. It had a bunch or brownish yellow stuff in it. It didn’t work but at least I know it’s nice in there.
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Discussion Starter #53
So I couldn’t get the passenger blinker in the grill to work. I’m not sure what it could be yet. I’m gonna take some time to look at the at the manual tomorrow and see what I can find out.
The headlight doesn’t work yet ether but the new one should be in soon.

I got the 180 degrees thermostat today so I’ll throw it in tomorrow and see what temperature it runs.

I also had a friend stop by that had a grinder so I used to make a tool to take out the plug in the head.
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I cut off a piece an old tire iron and shaped one end into a square.

Tomorrow’s another day,
Yowakawaka
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Finally got some time to work in the rig today.

I wasn’t able to get the plug out with the tool I made. Instead I plugged in the temperature gauge on top of the intake. With the new 180 degree thermostat, it runs good.

The new headlight works too. The only light that needs to be worked on is the orange passenger side light in the grill. It doesn’t turn on when the headlights are on but works when you use the right blinker.

Rigged up the temp gauge in front of the windshield and took her for a ride. It runs really good except it shifts kinda hard. I’m probably going to have to look at the TV cable again.
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