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Discussion Starter #21
I've been doing research and think the engine won't run because of a bad mixture control solenoid. I got one on eBay for 18 bucks. I'm gonna change it today and give it a start. I'll let you know how it goes.

The cleanings' been coming along good too. I'll post photos soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited by Moderator)
So a new mixture controls solenoid didn’t work but the old one had a broken gasket in it. I put in the new one but was wondering if you were able to just buy a new gasket for the tip?
9AB1987F-C794-47FB-BE09-42D653B80D2F.jpeg
The gasket below looked fairly new so I’m guessing the old one might not be that old.
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To make sure the mixture controls solenoid is working properly, is there a way to check it? I’d imagine it has to do with testing connectors and stuff. I have one of these electrical readers in the photo below.
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A step by step would be awesome!

On a positive note, I wanna give a shout out to this person I got the MCS off of on eBay. Check out this packaging!
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He/She even protected the gasket. The name in the account is Part-South. I’ll definitely buy from them again.

I’m pretty sure the problem has to do with the flap where the carb pulls in air. I don’t think it would be the choke because that’s only on cold starts. Any Ideas anyone? Maybe the throttle position sensor or the secondary vacuum?

Thanks!
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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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While you're waiting for your Haynes manual, go to PetSmart and get a parakeet. Haynes will make good birdcage liner. 🤣 Go on eBay and find a factory service manual. It will pay for itself many times over.
I personally haven't had any issue with the Haynes manuals. What's the beef? I used to have those Chilton manuals and they'd be like "Chevy trucks 1962-1999. ? Too broad. I found the Haynes S-10 book in particular to be pretty thorough.

And Yowakawaka, can you do me a solid? Show me where the ECM is mounted if you happen to be in there? My truck is EFI converted 84, but it's a federal truck, so it never had an ECM. I got a ECM plastic box mount that initially that I thought was for the s-10 since it was in a 2.5 85 which was EFI. But I'll be damned if I can understand how it mounted. It makes no sense. I have the ECM under the glove box insert currently, but i do not like it bouncing around in there untethered. You can see it in the the last post or two in my sticky at the top of the 2.8 forum "converting to EFI. A little help"

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I got you @jimmykicker . I think this is what your looking for.

It’s mounted on the far left passenger side under the glove box
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The wires leave the can through the plastic tube thing.
92861CC6-29A6-4A6D-84D1-56685FF2AAE4.jpeg


Let me Know if you need anything else.

I’ve decided to put new vacuum lines in the truck. The ones on it are old and breaking. I’m pretty sure it’s why it won’t idle too. Anyone know where I can get a spoil of vacuum hose, brands I should avoid, things I should replace in the process, and where I can get T/others fittings for cheap? I also still not sure how all the upper hoses in the diagram are supposed to fit.
 

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You won't need much vacuum line. The size should be on the line, or take a sample to the parts store. There are most likely a couple different sizes. Just be sure to replace them one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Anyone know what this thing is called? It’s three hoses that connect to the vacuum canister. Can I get a new one or do I have to use three separate vacuum hoses?
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time to get cereal
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I personally haven't had any issue with the Haynes manuals. What's the beef? I used to have those Chilton manuals and they'd be like "Chevy trucks 1962-1999. ? Too broad. I found the Haynes S-10 book in particular to be pretty thorough.
The 1st gens might be ok but the 2nd gen manual seems to focus on pre-98 trucks and a lot changed especially with 2.2L that they failed to capture. It's not terrible if you know how to tell what information is obviously wrong, but you can't blindly follow it like you can with a dealer manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
4997DCF1-4B79-4EB8-9C84-57549193D8C1.jpeg

Does this bronze part correspond with the red or green circle on the vacuum diagram?
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Discussion Starter #29
Here’s a thread that helped me figure out my vacuum hose problem.


To sum it up, I needed help identifying some stuff and was missing the deceleration valve. I got the valve and changed all the vacuum hoses.

I went to start it up and the it automatically died. I was messing with it and disconnected some of the electrical going to the carb and it stayed running. What I disconnected first was the mixture controls solenoid (just changed) and it stayed running. Here’s a photo of the connector.

ED28F48A-F458-48D2-A998-B5D01A81DD6D.jpeg


I let it run for a sec and it started to die so I disconnected what I thought to be the second cooperate. The temperature switch. when I did that, it stayed running. Here’s a photo of the temp switch. It’s in front of the manifold by the radiator hose.
24FA66E7-F391-4508-82B5-7792B0668309.jpeg


At this point, I’m guessing it’s an electrical problem. Let me know if there’s anything you guys can suggest. I’ll try it. Electrical is my weakness but I’ll do my best!

I’m also still looking for one of these. I replaced the hoses with new ones but would rather get the right parts.
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Thanks for the advice s10 people!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I misspoke in the last post. I actually disconnected the mixture controls solenoid and it stayed running.

Now for the update:
1) It won’t idle so I pulled the carb and decided to rebuild it. I’m waiting on the float and then I’ll get it done.

2) I tracked down some wires and found out the EFE heater was not set up right. The wiring is all wrong so I need to fix it. The temp switch that goes to it is also wrong so I need one of those too. I also found a loose ground. I tightened it down and it fixed the push button rear window release. I’m hoping it fixes the dome light that won’t turn off but I haven’t tested it yet.

Questions:
1) I used a vacuum pump to test the primary and secondary vacuum breaks. The primary held vacuum fine but the secondary did not. Did I test the secondary vacuum break correctly by using a vacuum pump?

2) I figured the disconnected EFE heater would have been the cause of it not starting (unless I give it gas) but after reading through some threads I’m having second thoughts. I live in CA so I don’t think it wouldn’t have any effect. Now I’m thinking it’s the carb (why I’m rebuilding it). I ordered a throttle position sensor, float, rebuild kit, and have a new mixture control solenoid. Is there anything else I should replace while in there?

I’ll post some picks tomorrow of the slightly cleaner engine bay. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions or comments.

Thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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I got you @jimmykicker . I think this is what your looking for.

It’s mounted on the far left passenger side under the glove box View attachment 342870
The wires leave the can through the plastic tube thing.
View attachment 342871

Let me Know if you need anything else.

I’ve decided to put new vacuum lines in the truck. The ones on it are old and breaking. I’m pretty sure it’s why it won’t idle too. Anyone know where I can get a spoil of vacuum hose, brands I should avoid, things I should replace in the process, and where I can get T/others fittings for cheap? I also still not sure how all the upper hoses in the diagram are supposed to fit.

Thank you. Sorry I had not responded yet. I haven't checked this lately. That's where I stashed it too. Wonder what that bracket looks like and how it attaches? So I guess the little tray I found from the 85 2.5 isn't the tray at all and must go to something else....Hmmm...
 

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I like that you're keeping the emission stuff operable on this one. Seems like so many people trash that stuff, it's hard to imagine one all original.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
@manbearpig I like when there all original. I know you all take out the engines and replace them with ones that actually make the trucks move but I can’t bring myself to tearing out an original engine. Getting them to run as intended is more of my goal. I’m waiting to find one with no engine or with a non-fixable engine to do my first swap. Or wait for one of them to blow up but hopefully not 🤞
 

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time to get cereal
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I would love to find one with the 2.0L Cavalier engine. There's been a few guys who have had them on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I got to rebuilding the carb today. It was defenseless rebuilt recently. The needle had about .01% ware and the needle seat was a new style one. It was pretty messy in there tho. The float had not been adjusted ether. I cleaned it up and am putting in all new parts just to have peace of mind

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I got stuck in how to adjust the float level. I have a factory manual that tells you how to do it with tools that I don’t have. I also have a Delco manual I found online. It’s a little easier but I still don’t understand it. The rebuild kit didn’t come with instructions. It did come with a little L measures tho. I’m just not exactly sure how to use it. Here’s some photos. Hopefully you can see them.
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I also found this adjustment chart in the Back of the manual. The last carb number is mine.
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Anyone know how to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Here’s some photos of the old girl I took recently. She hasn’t moved for a bit but there’s hopes in the near future.
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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited by Moderator)
Today I finished putting the carb together, put it on and she started right up. It idled straight from the start. I didn’t run it too long but it didn’t sound too good. I think I need to adjust the Idle Control Sensor. It’s a hole other process so I’ll have to do that after some research.

After I cleaned up the wiring and plug wires. I also made sure the firing order was correct. Strangely, the firing order on the distributor is 1,2,3,4,5,6 all the way around.

I even vacuumed the engine compartment. There was a lot of tree and leaves in it. I was vacuuming the part between the window and hood and noticed there was a bunch of crud under it. Tomorrow it’s definitely getting taken off and cleaned. I just need to figure out how to off the wipers.

I’m waiting in a EFE Switch. I’m looking into a new heater as well or a way to transfer the heater to a new gasket.

I was wondering if anyone might know what these wires under the hood are for. There yellow and black (maybe grey). I was looking at the wiring diagram in the back of the book and can’t find any yellow and black wires.
DFF70314-FC35-4DF9-BF16-9998AFF12E83.jpeg


I was also wondering if anyone knows what these two connectors do? I think one is a dwell connector.
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One more wonder. What does this do/what is it for? I wanna say it’s for vacuum.
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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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The "what the ****" thing is the EGR valve. The third pic I think my truck has it too....not connected to anything that I can recall either. Maybe tach? What I would do is grab an 84 wiring diagram from DeathPhoenix99 's page and research it. I'd help you out there, but my truck is so not stock, that when I have issues sometimes I cannot remember how I wired it. 7 years ago now....Next time I have to get int there I am making a proprietary document for it.
 

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1994 GMC Jimmy SLE, 2010 Cadillac STS
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Removing your wiper arms couldn’t be easier. Get yourself a nail, ice pick, something of the like. Pull the arm away from the windshield, there is a little hole right at the hinge, look through that hole and you’ll see a small flat piece of steel. Insert your tool of choice through the hole, behind the flat piece and through the hole on the opposite side. This will take the pressure off the spring that holds the arm on, all you have to do then is pull it off, you may have to wiggle it a little she’s been on there a while.
 
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