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1995 s10 extended cab, 4.3 v6, automatic, lowered with a body kit and 20” rims
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Okay, so I got the parts in. Do I I need to remove the intake tuning valve prior to taking off the upper intake plenum? Should I change the oil just in case gas might’ve leaked past the rings? And also should I change the plugs in case they’re rich fouled? And if I should, which are the best plugs for this engine? And which is the proper torque sequence for the upper plenum? Sorry for 5 questions all at once!
 

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322 Posts
just unplug the tuning valve, absolutely change the oil,and while you're there be sure to check for LIM leaks
 

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Registered
1995 s10 extended cab, 4.3 v6, automatic, lowered with a body kit and 20” rims
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Okay thanks! Okay so I did what I could do yesterday, being injured and all. I got everything off, but I left off of the torx head bolt that holds the fuel line bracket on. My question is, is it a t-27 or a t-30? I don’t wanna strip it out. I can’t get in a good position to break it loose, so I had my buddy try and break it loose and he said the bit didn’t feel tight inside the bolt head, so I had him hold off until I figured out what size it truly is. Thank you in advance !
 

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Been there Done it
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10,106 Posts
Most likely a T30. Gm didn't use T27 that I'm aware of. Take a dental pick and clean it out.
 

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1995 s10 extended cab, 4.3 v6, automatic, lowered with a body kit and 20” rims
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I appreciate it !
 

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Registered
1995 s10 extended cab, 4.3 v6, automatic, lowered with a body kit and 20” rims
Joined
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Okay, so I wasn’t able to get the torx screw out, so I cleaned/expected the old fuel lines, put new o-rings on the ends and left them in there. New CPI unit fit right in there, and the poppets clicked right in, cycled the key/fuel pump on about 8-10 times, and there wasn’t any fuel leaks. I put everything back together, and it’s definitely idling better and smoother throttle response. But still has a spitter under a load, I got new plugs, oil, and oil filter, so tomorrow I’m going to change the spark plugs and the oil. I have a feeling that one of the two middle cylinders have a rich fouled plug. So I’ll get that knocked out after work tomorrow. Thanks everyone for all the input and advice. I’ll post the results after working on it tomorrow. Oh, and I’ll put the new IAC sensor and plug in tomorrow as well.
 

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Registered
1995 s10 extended cab, 4.3 v6, automatic, lowered with a body kit and 20” rims
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Alright, so last night I fired the truck up in the dark and the coil was arcing onto the bracket that holds it on. So that told me that a spark plug wire was either loose, or broken. I drove it to work today sputtering, like usual. I bought new plugs, wires and coil. I pulled the plug wires and the spark plugs out. When I pulled the #6 spark plug boot off, I looked inside, and nothing was in there! It was broken and stuck on the end of the plug. So I put the new plugs and wires in, and fired it up and it runs smooth as a minnows tail. I just drove it home, which is 25 miles and wow what a difference. Oh and the #3 spark plug everybody hates changing, was no harder than any of the rest of them I just used a 18” extension with a wobbly head extension and a regular spark plug socket with the hex head, and positioned it through my rim. At least I know I have a new egr, new CPI unit, new o rings on the fuel lines that I couldn’t remove lol, new plugs and wires, an oil change and a new coil that I’m debating on putting on or just returning it. But I wanna thank you guys for all the help and information! Now I can actually start having fun and getting it the way I want it, instead of trying to fix a problem.
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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Sometimes it’s the most obvious things that we ignore. Thanks for checking back in.
 
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