[Florida Dime]

I crashed my 1st gen s10 into a pine tree 2 1/2 weeks ago, which left me a broken foot, hip, jaw in 2 places, and a bunch of cuts and a collapsed lung. So I needed to find an extended cab so I could slide the seat back all the way to get in, and it needed to be lowered for ease of access as well, and an automatic so I wouldn’t have to use my left leg to push in a clutch. Well, I ended up finding one, and purchased it for $1600. It had an idle surge, and a misfire, so I replaced the EGR, that did fix the idle surge. So now I’m assuming there’s a fuel leak From either the “nut kit” or the spider injection lines and or fuel regulator. I’m trying to order a new spider injection kit, but I’m seeing one with the usual 6 fuel lines and poppets, that states is for 92-95. I’m also seeing the spider with the 6 fuel lines but they each have wires going to the ends of the fuel lines, and they state they’re for 96-up. I know they changed mid 1995. So mine has the flat distributor cap with the spark plug wires coming out of the sides of the cap rather than the top, so would that be like the 92-95, or the 96-up? Can someone PLEASE tell me which spider I need to purchase? I also wanted to say I have been building s10’s and k10’s for the past 10 years, and for any s10 knowledge, I’ve always read on this forum, everybody seems very helpful and all the information very useful, so that being said, thanks for this forum and god bless! Thanks in advance!

 

[oldeerslayer]

No, they changed at the end of the 95 model year.
What year truck did you buy?

 

[Florida Dime]

Thanks for the reply, it’s a 1995.

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

What is the build date? Some June, July and August trucks were titled as a 95 still but had the newer 96 components. I discovered this little ”feature” when selling auto parts. Can you send a pic of the top of your engine that will help us know which setup you need.

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

Here is the older Vortec design

here is the newer design.

the older ones look better, but the newer design works better.

the spider injectors for the old design are not compatible with the newer ones and I have found them sometimes hard to get.

the newer design engine has an upgraded spider that has solenoid injectors instead of poppet injectors, which is a big improvement. That is the ones with the wires to the injectors.

 

[Florida Dime]

Okay, so based off of your pictures I have the older design. So, if I purchase the newer design it’ll be compatible right? Sorry I just wanna make sure before I order these parts. I only wanna have to lean under the hood on foot for one day haha.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Okay, so based off of your pictures I have the older design. So, if I purchase the newer design it’ll be compatible right? Sorry I just wanna make sure before I order these parts. I only wanna have to lean under the hood on foot for one day haha.

It will not be compatible.

 

[Florida Dime]

Gotcha! Thanks. I’ll get these parts ordered and see if it gets rid of this missing/stutter. I’m sure a spark plug or two is probably fouled from being too rich, so I’ll get a set of plugs and wires for it too.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Gotcha! Thanks. I’ll get these parts ordered and see if it gets rid of this missing/stutter. I’m sure a spark plug or two is probably fouled from being too rich, so I’ll get a set of plugs and wires for it too.

I would recommend OEM ignition parts. 4.3's are picky like that.

 

[chevymec]

Make sure to replace the 2 fuel lines that feed/return to the injector asm inside the intake. They are prone to leak fuel inside and cause run problems.

 

[Florida Dime]

Yep, I’ll be sure to order oem plug wires and plugs. And I’ll also get those two fuel lines. My question is, is how come there’s so many ads that show these as a 92-95 kit, when it’s the ones with the wires on them, if it isn’t compatible? I’m not questioning the comparability, but why so many companies list them like that.. Spider Fuel Injector For 1992-1995 Chevrolet Chevy GMC Oldsmobile Vortec 4.3L V6 | eBay

 

[chevymec]

Yep, I’ll be sure to order oem plug wires and plugs. And I’ll also get those two fuel lines. My question is, is how come there’s so many ads that show these as a 92-95 kit, when it’s the ones with the wires on them, if it isn’t compatible? I’m not questioning the comparability, but why so many companies list them like that.. Spider Fuel Injector For 1992-1995 Chevrolet Chevy GMC Oldsmobile Vortec 4.3L V6 | eBay

Yeah that is for a 96+ 4.3. That have the wrong picture listed.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[Florida Dime]

Yeah that is for a 96+ 4.3. That have the wrong picture listed.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the confirmation! That’s the part that was confusing. A lot of sites have them listed like that. The vacuum ball that’s mounted to the hood of the truck, has one hose that comes out of it, and goes from the ball to a T-fitting, one hose off of the “T” goes up into the hood, and the other side of the “T” has a hose that’s about 24” long and is just dangling down, not attached to anything. Any idea on where this would’ve went? I also noticed the IAT sensor is missing from the intake tube, and the wire connection is just dangling with no sensor on it as well. I put gorilla tape over the open hole on the tube for the time being.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

There should be a line from the manifold for the vacuum source. The other lines are to the ball and a hard plastic line in a wire bundle by the steering column that goes to the HVAV controls. Get the IAT and hook it up.

 

[Florida Dime]

Okay, I just ordered a new spider injector unit, the two white fuel lines, and a new gasket. My buddy at O’Reillys is gonna hook me up with a new IAT sensor. The plug for the IAT is really boogered up, I wonder if there’s a part number for it? I’m gonna wait until it gets a little darker outside and fire the truck up to see if I see the coil arching off of anything, just for chits and giggles. But while I’m out there hobbling around I’ll look at the vacuum lines and see if I can figure anything out.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

I checked Rockauto...didn't see one. Junkyard would be your best bet.

 

[Florida Dime]

Awesome, thanks for checking! I have 3 other s10’s they just have big and small blocks in them. I’ve got a soft spot for s10’s haha. But I’ll check with a few of my buddies and see if they have one I can snag.

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

Have your buddy from O'Reilly's look for that connector. It is a pretty common GM connector and when I worked there I sold several of those. I usually looked them up for the coolant temp sensor but they were the same form factor and would work just fine. Cut and splice from a junk yard is also an option.

 

[Florida Dime]

Yep, I talked to him this morning about it, he grabbed one for me free of charge and he’s gonna drop it off at my wood shop tomorrow. All of my other parts should arrive between the 7th-13th. I’ll definitely post an update after I install the new parts. I do have another question. I have a set of c5 zo6 tires and rims, what size wheel spacers for the front, and the rear would be the best? I hear some say 2”, some say 2 1/2”.

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

Yep, I talked to him this morning about it, he grabbed one for me free of charge and he’s gonna drop it off at my wood shop tomorrow. All of my other parts should arrive between the 7th-13th. I’ll definitely post an update after I install the new parts. I do have another question. I have a set of c5 zo6 tires and rims, what size wheel spacers for the front, and the rear would be the best? I hear some say 2”, some say 2 1/2”.

I would get them both, try the smaller one first and see what happens. Since most places have a use it, it's yours kinda thing about wheel spacers just attach them to the wheels loosly (ie finger tight on the nuts sort of thing) so you dont leave any tattle tale marks on the spacers and put the rim and spacer up to the hub. If it seems to clear then you may be in business, if it sets in too deep use the larger spacer. Also the rear of the C5s are usually really deep, most people just use 4 fronts.