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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dime brothers,
I hope everyone is good. My question is that my 1995 Sonoma, aka, the Ho Getta recently received a new engine. The original engine (384,000 miles) took a crap. I cracked #1 piston. No damage to the block or anything. The crankshaft was still in very good shape as was the camshaft. This is what I/We did to the engine;
1) bored block .20 over
2) new pistons and rings .20 over
3) all new internal bearings to include the cam bearings
4) all new seals
5) all new timing chain set up
6) all new fuel parts, pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator , fuel injectors
7) head machined
8) new oil pump
as far as I can remember, that is it. My buddy who helped me is a certified mechanic. I am an Off road Fabricator, and a "part changer" at best. He downloaded the GMC "New Engine Break In procedure. So we pulled the relay on the fuel pump and no wires to the coils. So to prime it for oil pressure immediately, we packed the oil pump with grease (old school technique he said). Got oil pressure right away with 70 psi. Now here is the problem. Once we primed it with fuel and hooked the coils up, she fired right up with close to 80 psi but had blue smoke (a considerable amount) coming out of the exhaust. I have been idling it to operating temp and then pushing it it to about 1900 RPMs for a couple of minutes each time. She is running good, but lots of blue smoke still. GMC says it could take up to 200 miles to clear it up.
Here is my questions, is this normal for a newly rebuilt 2.2L? Could it be the grease packed into the oil pump causing it, or...Found out from the guy who machined my head, he failed to put new valve stem seals in it?? I appreciate and effort about this...
Bruce
aka, Sapperb
 

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2003 Sonoma SLS ext. cab 4.3L / 4x4
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I'd be suspect of the head job w/o new stem seals - that would seem to me to be a no brainer that was "overlooked?"/ ignored? - and that wouldn't be limited to a 2.2 engine. And I can't say I've ever heard of packing an oil pump w/ grease, although there are certainly a lot of things that I'm unaware of (across a whole spectrum of topics!). And FWIW - just because something is 'old school' doesn't automatically bestow it with 'correct' or 'proper' procedure - just sayin'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd be suspect of the head job w/o new stem seals - that would seem to me to be a no brainer that was "overlooked?"/ ignored? - and that wouldn't be limited to a 2.2 engine. And I can't say I've ever heard of packing an oil pump w/ grease, although there are certainly a lot of things that I'm unaware of (across a whole spectrum of topics!). And FWIW - just because something is 'old school' doesn't automatically bestow it with 'correct' or 'proper' procedure - just sayin'.
Aitch,
Ya I spoke to him and he is a machinist and he build muscle cars..but doesn't really know anything about an Isuzu engine. It is a great guy and yes he said use grease or Vaseline and it causes suction of the oil pump, it blasts open and "boom" goes the oil through the engine for immediate oil pressure. My mechanic buddy knew about it too. He apologized and gave me a little refund. I can do the valve stem seals, but damn I don't want to pull the head.....But I will, if I have to. Also I have read on here where a kid had the same issue, he changed his oil and was good to go. So, any thoughts on that?? Thank again for the help!
 

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Found out from the guy who machined my head, he failed to put new valve stem seals in it??
I would start with this. I, too, would expect new valve stem seals with a reworked head. If the shop "forgot" them, the rest of what they were supposed to do would be suspect.
 

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You may be able to install / replace the valve stem seals without pulling the cylinder head. Using compressed air to hold the valves shut has worked for me on many engines, although I have never tried it on a 2.2. Sounds like you did a good job otherwise, Congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You may be able to install / replace the valve stem seals without pulling the cylinder head. Using compressed air to hold the valves shut has worked for me on many engines, although I have never tried it on a 2.2. Sounds like you did a good job otherwise, Congrats!
Magic17, roger that! Yes I went online and saw that. It is even recommended to do it that way on the S10, Haynes manual. I just grabbed a Valve spring Compressor at AZ, so now I have to see who has the Air Compressor spark plug screw in adapter. Thanks for the reply brother...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You may be able to install / replace the valve stem seals without pulling the cylinder head. Using compressed air to hold the valves shut has worked for me on many engines, although I have never tried it on a 2.2. Sounds like you did a good job otherwise, Congrats!
Magic17, OK, by the way I am going to use that technique. QUESTION, how much air/PSI did you use when you screwed that adapter into the spark plug hole? I have a 30 gal, 230V air compressor. Thanks!
 

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Two tones of terror
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Around 150 always works
 

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Take it out and beat **** out of it. Your rings won't seat until they get some pressure behind them.

There's an article on the net by a motorcycle mechanic who explains the how's and why's.

If you're running it up to 2-3K rpm, check the exhaust smoke when you close the throttle, that's the time of highest vacuum in the plenum and cylinders, bad seals will get worse after the throttle is closed.

On my roller motors, I get 'em started and make sure everything will play nice. Once up to operating temp, I whoop on 'em. None smoke or use oil.

And not to start a technical pissing contest here, the cylinder walls mate to the rings, not the other way around. Rings are hard as ****, cylinder walls are cast iron. Ring seat is accomplished when the microscopic "peaks" of the hone scratches are worked down until they're flat across the top or close. Most performance shops "plateau hone" the bores as the last step, they've found out that this takes are of about 80% of ring seating. Think of a plateau in monument valley - you still have the ridge/spike but it's flat across the top. I watched literally hundreds of big-inch big blocks that were plateau honed make dyno pulls. Most had a puff of smoke at initial start up and would continue to smoke very lightly until the first pull to 6500rpm. After that, rings and cylinder walls are perfectly mated.

Replace those valve guide seals, fire it up, get it to operating temp and take it on some 4500-5000 rpm runs. If everything was done correctly, it'll straighten out and fly right within a couple of minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Take it out and beat **** out of it. Your rings won't seat until they get some pressure behind them.

There's an article on the net by a motorcycle mechanic who explains the how's and why's.

If you're running it up to 2-3K rpm, check the exhaust smoke when you close the throttle, that's the time of highest vacuum in the plenum and cylinders, bad seals will get worse after the throttle is closed.

On my roller motors, I get 'em started and make sure everything will play nice. Once up to operating temp, I whoop on 'em. None smoke or use oil.

And not to start a technical pissing contest here, the cylinder walls mate to the rings, not the other way around. Rings are hard as ****, cylinder walls are cast iron. Ring seat is accomplished when the microscopic "peaks" of the hone scratches are worked down until they're flat across the top or close. Most performance shops "plateau hone" the bores as the last step, they've found out that this takes are of about 80% of ring seating. Think of a plateau in monument valley - you still have the ridge/spike but it's flat across the top. I watched literally hundreds of big-inch big blocks that were plateau honed make dyno pulls. Most had a puff of smoke at initial start up and would continue to smoke very lightly until the first pull to 6500rpm. After that, rings and cylinder walls are perfectly mated.

Replace those valve guide seals, fire it up, get it to operating temp and take it on some 4500-5000 rpm runs. If everything was done correctly, it'll straighten out and fly right within a couple of minutes.
Big Salty,
WOW!! Thanks. that actually makes a lot of sense. I appreciate the "legwork" brother. I am going to tackle it this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Update on the Ho Getta. I think I/we have to pull the engine...again. I have put about 25 miles on it and maybe 5 hours of running time. It is still smoking like a *. I pulled the plugs, and you can see in the pic. I am thinking I might have "caught" an oil ring.....or 3? 2 weeks ago, I changed the valve stem seals, thank again to you guys and it didn't even really make a difference. So, after a while, it starts running like crap. Missing bad and acting like it is running on 2 or 3 cylinders. I truly appreciate any more help on this issue. I would like to wish all of you a Merry Christmas.
Wood Automotive tire Font Auto part Fashion accessory
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok,
Update. Still blowing blue smoke, burning oil. Well, well..I did use the Harbor Freight Piston Ring Compressor. I should have read the reviews prior. I have never had an issue with HF tools. Well the bad reviews, most of them said it ****ed up the oil rings.. So, getting a real one from Napa and ordering new rings. The engine is coming out this weekend hopefully, Stay tuned. Thanks again for all the input. Merry Christmas to all.
 

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Ok,
Update. Still blowing blue smoke, burning oil. Well, well..I did use the Harbor Freight Piston Ring Compressor. I should have read the reviews prior. I have never had an issue with HF tools. Well the bad reviews, most of them said it ****ed up the oil rings.. So, getting a real one from Napa and ordering new rings. The engine is coming out this weekend hopefully, Stay tuned. Thanks again for all the input. Merry Christmas to all.
I generally avoid Harbor Fright for any tools, based on previous experience and reactions from others. It's OK for some things, but I don't buy any tools there, for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I generally avoid Harbor Fright for any tools, based on previous experience and reactions from others. It's OK for some things, but I don't buy any tools there, for a reason.
Ya I hear ya. I will probably never buy a tool from again.
 

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I've had good luck with their spot weld cutters, and the cheapo band saw works pretty good actually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok so update. Pulled the engine a month ago. Got it back in last Saturday. My Mechanic buddy with his good piston ring compressor from Matco took charge. We are doing "turn key" this Saturday. I will let you all know how it goes, good or bad....But I don't think it will be bad...
 

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Aitch,
Ya I spoke to him and he is a machinist and he build muscle cars..but doesn't really know anything about an Isuzu engine.
The 2.2L is a Chevrolet engine lmao.
 

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I've never heard of packing the oil pump with grease. I have a video somewhere in my old phone if I can figure out the pin. There is a hole on the back passenger side of the motor heads straight down to the oil pump. Forgive me it has been like a decade, but I believe I used a 1/4" socket on a long extension, Do not drop it down there. You should be able to spin the pump with a drill. I believe I did this just before i put the valve cover and timing cover on to verify oil flow and also just prime the system. Did you use engine assembly lube when you were putting the crank, cam, etc in?
 
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