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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve got a 2001 S10 manual 4.3 that is starting to show some age in the weak front end. The options are replace all the weak IFS components with more weak IFS components. Or chop it all out and go Solid axle. Well I decided to take the plunge and start looking for some axles. I was able to find some 1990 grand Wagoneer axles for $350 bucks so I got to it. Anyways long story short, I’d like to go with the ORD kit and I’m wondering how much room I’ll have for 33” tires if I keep the stock springs and keep the axle under sprung. I’ll start attaching pic soon. I’ve been looking around other people builds for guidance but I was just curious what kind of clearance I should be expecting.
 

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If your asking how much lift you would get flipping the rear axle to the underside of the leaf springs generally you will gain about 5-6" of lift which should clear the 33" tires. On the frontend it just depends on which leaf springs you use for your lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I’m still piecing together parts and was wondering what everyone is doing with their transfer case and front drive shaft?
 

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If you are only looking to make it a fixed front output, you’ll need to find an older s10 case, a Dakota case, or most commonly a jeep case. You will be looking for the fixed front output with a bolt on yoke. 231 or 233 cases.

If you want to get a little more complicated, there are wide and narrow chains. You will need to obviously find the matching output shaft, chain, and gear that’s rides on the main shaft. Your current case may have the wide chain and gear.

While you are in there, you can swap out the input gear to one with more planetary gears. Yours most likely has 3 or 4 (I’ve seen both). The 6 gear planetary is found in Chevy 241, 243, 246 cases (27 spline). You’ll need one from a similar year as your case. There was a change in the gear cut around 93-95 and you can’t mix styles or they eat themselves with the quickness.

If you have the extra funds, a jbconversions super short slip yoke eliminator kit is a good upgrade too. Not totally necessary as far as function. But can make life easier by being able to take rear driveshaft off and not lose atf for the case. And it is way stronger than a stock shaft.

Fixed front output will be 26 spline I believe. Stock rear output is 27 spline. Slip yoke eliminator is 32 spline.

It’s a tight fit but you can get a 1350 yoke on the front of a 233 with the shift motor, it barely clears. I don’t think you can go any bigger.

If you made it that far, exnay the vacuum. Take the vacuum switch to the parts store and tell them you want a threaded brass plug. Follow the vacuum lines from the switch on the case (my 04 went up the transmission dipstick). Trace it to the vacuum ball and plug the hole ( my 04 had it inside the driver side fender). Other end goes to the front axle and is useless now, rip it out.

For driveshafts, depending on what yoke you use, you may be able to use a stock driveshaft from something else and have it re tubed. Example, if you fix a Cherokee in a junkyard to rob the case, grab the shaft too. I pulled 1350 shafts from a wrecked school bus and had a local shop re tube them to the lengths I needed. If you don’t have a shop that will do that and you don’t feel comfortable doing it, there are several vendors that will make shafts. Adams driveshaft and high angle driveline both come to mind.

And while I am at it, strap style yokes are garbage. U bolt style yokes are where it’s at. Or flanges, I like them too. I would only consider using strap style yokes if you have them and don’t want to spend money on a u bolt style. Don’t seek out and buy a strap style. That is wasted money if you can get a u bolt style instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dang stucky your a wealth of knowledge, I’m looking to go the most economical route. My truck is a manual so I don’t really have floor space to go with a manual shift transfer case. I’m looking for a bolt in solution if possible. Do you know what year t case utilized the push button shifter and a fixed front yoke?
 

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Better question is do you have 233 or 236? 3 button is 233. 4 button is 236. 233 can easily be made to work with the shift motor. Having seen the inside of a 236, I wouldn’t want to use it. An s10 231 I believe will be hard to find. First gen square body had them, then was only available 95-97 in round body second gen.

But to answer your question, I have seen square body s10 cases with fixed front yoke but I don’t know what years. Most jeep 231s will have what you need. Look for yj, tj, xj cases. I think kj (liberty) cases have a slip yoke. However an s10 case has 5 mount holes vs pretty much everything else having 6. So a jeep case will not bolt on. But the parts are swappable.

I think I used 4 other cases to make my 233. And they really are not too bad to mess with. Snap ring pliers and rtv are the specialty tools you’d need.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I’ve got the 3 button shifter, if I can’t find a factory fixed yoke 233 then I suppose I’ll just look for a 231j. Do you know if the chain is the same width on the 231j as the 233c? My truck is a 2001 if that matters.
 

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I was at the JY today and saw a 93 Blazer with the fixed yoke on it it was a electric shift model. I've seen the manual 231 in a lot of the 96 Blazers.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks eshaw, I think I’ve got a line on a 93 blazer t case. I’m just waiting for some pictures to confirm.
 

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The only way I know to verify if a case is wide chain or not is to open it up. There may be a known year that things changed but I don’t know. Just remember that for a wide chain you need the output shaft and the gear from the main shaft to go with it.
 

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I’ve got the 3 button shifter, if I can’t find a factory fixed yoke 233 then I suppose I’ll just look for a 231j. Do you know if the chain is the same width on the 231j as the 233c? My truck is a 2001 if that matters.
Your truck more than likely has a 1" chain in it. I've never seen any definitive source for whether or not a case has the wide chain in it. It's like Stucky said in his reply, the best way to find out is to open it up. On a side note, the early 231 TC have tags on them that read 231C HD. Those units should have the wide chain in them. I believe the 231J has a 1" chain in it so you should be able to swap parts like Stucky said to get a fixed shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i just realized that this is a mechanical shift isn’t it? I wonder if I can swap the output shafts out of this case put them in the 233 case.
 

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Yup buy it! Lol

Is it out of a 1st or 2nd gen? I have always been curious if the clocking is the same on both style of truck. If I had that when building my truck, I’d of used it instead of the original 233 and just gotten a cable shifter.

Looked at pics again, tag says 92. Did you drag it home yet?

Come to think of it, if you were to use that, you may need to do some reading on the guys that did doublers, I don’t know if you will have to ground the wire that they have to. I don’t know what or where said wire is.

For me, personally I do not mind the push button selector, but the main advantage that I see in a 231 is that you can put it in neutral. A 233 technically has a neutral, but you cannot put it in neutral, no button. That could also be the start of a 231/233 doubler.
 

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i just realized that this is a mechanical shift isn’t it? I wonder if I can swap the output shafts out of this case put them in the 233 case.
NP233c is literally a 231c with an electric shift motor. You can swap **** near everything between them.


Far as lift/axles go. Waggy axles are a good fit for an S10, I'd reccomend swapping the rear for a 96-97 Rodeo axle (factory 4.10/4.30 gears and disc brakes). You'd have to match the lug studs (Dorman 610-156 to match rear to front or Dorman 610-264 to match front to rear) (also a Dorman 555-013 to plug the ABS sensor on the Rodeo axle).

The ORD kit is a fine choice, but I'm pretty sure due to clearance issues you can't run spring under with factory Waggy springs. You'll need at least a set of 2" lift springs for SUA (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Waggy springs are a great choice however for SOA but, then you run into steering clearance issues, that route is best served by a high steer setup (you can get away with only the drag link on this, tie rod can stay in stock location). You can get high steer knuckle packages on ebay for reasonable prices.

Basic "get it together" setup in my opinion.

ORD Kit
Waggy 44s (I would recommend the Rodeo rear axle, saves partially on gear setup, 4.10/4.30 will be more than fine with 33s, even 35s to a point)
2" lift springs (for a wagoneer) setup SUA
Astro steering box (Throws the pitman arm towards the front, I think 2WD but, I forget what years exactly)
Stock Waggy steering and pitman arm
 
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