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Needs moar low
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Note: I did not choose the placement of these pictures in the post. It did it automatically when I attached them.

Hey guys.

Looking forward to feedback/suggestions.

I've had this truck for a long time. I finally decided to get it running and driving again after not moving for about the last 6 years and hasnt driven on the road for about 10.
Did a 5/5 drop on it. Ive wanted to lower this truck since i first got it 15 years ago.
From what i can tell at the moment, i dont have any problems in the rear. the front is a different story though.

i have belltech drop spindles and 3 inch coils. Bump stops removed. i have 215/60/15 up front on stock 93 blazer wheels (some would argue camaro wheels) and the tires tuck hard. Looks absolutely wild but they rub the top of the inner fenders terribly. Rubbed the top bolts rolling on flat ground. I removed the bolt and the tires hum from rubbing the inners on a couple hundred yard road test. This is the only clearance issue I have at the moment.

This is just barely over a 25 inch tire and from what I've read over the years this should work? I could be wrong though. After the drop I have 12 inches from hub center to fender lip up front on both sides and just over 15 inches on both sides in the rear. This truck has an insane amount of rake for some reason.
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I have some 1" spacers I am going to put in to lift the front a little. May end up having to remove the inners completely if that's not enough. I don't know. That feels unnecessary for a 4" drop though.

I don't have pics of the truck lowered on matching wheels but since threads are worthless without pics, I've attached a couple from before I started working on it. take a few pictures with the new tires and matching wheels before I put the spacers in next weekend. I have a few from before I started working on it.
 

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1,661 Posts
3" coils will make for an uncomfortable ride.
Try this for size-
2" drop spindles
1 or possibly 2" djm coils
Proforged tall lower ball joints
Bilstein shocks or equivalent
2" drop leafs
3" solid blocks
C notch rear frame
225-50-
Your truck will be very low but ride nice
This is my opinion based on many drops I have done for friends as well as myself.
 

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Been there Done it
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11,462 Posts
That's not rust, that's Patina.
In the salt belt this is rust. Still driveable, but getting kinda rusty.
Note the rope keeping the 2 sides of the bed vertical.

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Needs moar low
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pictures with original 14's and 195/75/14 tire in the front.this is also before the bump stops were removed in the front. I will have new pictures with the 215/60/15's next weekend.
Ridiculous amount of rake. Anyone have problems running without inner fenders?
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Squid Life
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1,780 Posts
That front sits 1.5" lower than my 93" on DJM 2" Spindles and 3" DJM coils. My fender lip is 13.5" to hub center and 25" to the ground. My 235/45R17s are 25.3" tall, yours should be 25.5", so very similar. I have 2"s between the top of the tire and the inner fender. I run Toxic Shocks that are pretty damn stiff and I only rub when I have a passenger AND hit a pretty sizable dip in the road. Any chance you put 4 Cyl coils on a V6 truck? I don't know the weight difference between a 2.8 and any of the I4s, but I know my truck has V6 coils on it. The 1" spacers and a decent shock may keep you from rubbing and even out your rake some. My truck has a good 2" rake to it, but I runner a taller rear tire and it is an even 5/5, which is usually going to have somewhere near a 1" rake to it to start.
 

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Needs moar low
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I appreciate those measurements. I had a hard time when I was searching to find measurements from the hub to the fender.

They're probably 4cyl springs. I'll look again this weekend when I put the spacers in. Seller never asked 4 or 6cyl. I caught hell just trying to get them to send me all my parts. Not worth the hassle of attempting an exchange.

Hopefully these 1"spacers will give me enough. I wanted djm springs but I found a good deal on this Belltech 616 kit. So if the spacers don't give me enough, I guess I'm either removing the inners or possibly buying new springs. Which I don't want to do. Ughh

For shocks up front I have Belltech nitro2's 8007 is the part #. They're allegedly pretty good from what I've read.

My front tires are 215/60/15 and should be 25.16 inches. my rears are 235/60/15 and should be 26.1 inches. So roughly 1/2 inch of rake attributed to my tires.

Even stock I had 2-3 inches of rake though lol picture from 15 years ago haha
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Squid Life
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I had 100% Belltech on my last truck (2nd gen) and was 100% happy with it. I did DJM on this truck because I was cheap this time around. It is hard to say from stock, cause you just ripped everything out of the truck that supports it, and completely replaced it. I think that if you get another 1” in the front whether that is spacers or new springs, you are gonna be happy with it.
 

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Needs moar low
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I will see this weekend if spacers will do it!

I'm excited to finally get this truck back on the road. It's so close. A few more days of working on it and it will be ready.
 

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with that drop in the front you will need to raise/remove/custom inner fender wells if you want to keep them.
there isnt any way around it.
also, you will want to dehump your lower control arms for a better ride. did you get it aligned yet?
the little shop of horrors no toe kit is a good purchase as well. it will eliminate your bump steer. although you probably dont have much on those 14/15 inch wheels.
 

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Needs moar low
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here are some pictures with matching wheels. This is before spacers. Please excuse the bird ****. Ugh.
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Only was able to work on the truck for a couple hours today. But I have the spacer, new upper/lower ball joints and new inner/outer tie rods on the passenger side. Haha gonna try to get the driver side done tomorrow.

after bouncing on the front bumper and rolling back and forth about 35 feet a few times, the passenger side measures 13 1/4 inches from hub center to fender lip. If I can get that on the driver side I believe I can make it work.

Thanks for the input.
I've seen dehumping the lowers and I've seen where you can notch the frame for the lca too. Trying to avoid that if I can for now.
I'm raising the front with some 1 inch spacers. If it comes to it I'll remove the inners and do something eventually. I'm hoping these spacers along with some skillfully placed hammer whacks will be enough.

I doubt I will ever put any wheels other than the 14's or 15's I currently have. I will for sure look into that kit and keep it in mind as a solution for sketchy steering though.

And no alignment yet. I am going to get all my parts in and ride hight adjustments made and set the toe close enough for a short neighborhood road test and then ride to the alignment shop.
 

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Needs moar low
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got the driver side done today. Upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, and spacer. Did a driveway alignment to get the toe close enough for a test drive.

It was a a successful ride! Got about 25 minutes of ride time taking the ball joint press back to AutoZone. Truck ran perfectly. Shifted smooth. And rode comfortable. No weird vibrations from the driveshaft. No bump steer. The route I took has has speed limits varying from 35 to 55mph and it cruised wonderfully at every speed. Even (slowly) went over a rough RR crossing twice. Front tires stayed out of the inner fenders the entire ride. No tire rub on road dips or turning. Could feel the back touch the bump stops a couple times though. But I don't have my new shocks on the rear yet and it still full factory rear bump stops and brackets. But it looks like the spacers give me what I needed. So at least that's a relief.
 
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